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Calvin Wan’s Drift FD3S Period Correct Refresh By Rotary Extreme
C.Wan FD3S Refresh – Update 28
Once again, it’s a 200 plus picture weekend. I’m sure half the pictures are blurred and trying to get the right lighting, so it should be easy to get it down to the 80 pic limit per post on FB. Ive been trying to find time to work on this all week, so sorry if some of it seems rushed as your reading it – that’s because it is…. I gots to get on to the next job !!!!!
01 – Battery Power
02 – Verify Sensors
03 – Calibrate Map Sensor and Fix AVC-R Boost Reading
04 – Fix Fuel Temp
05 – Black AVC-R
06 – Install Gauges
07 – Driver Side Foot Panel Hardware
08 – Hood Stops
09 – Instrument Cluster Installed
10 – Check Gauges
11 – Hood Corner Chip Repair
12 – JDM Side Marker Template
13 – Hood And Fenders On
14 – Hood Latch Pins
15 – Rotary Extreme Hood Damper Kit
16 – Hood Crack Fixed
01 – Battery Power
It was time to hook up the battery disconnect so I could verify the electrical system. I routed it into the engine bay and secured it with a clamp in the wheel well and another clamp behind the shock tower. The battery connection and alternator are on one side of the breaker, the other two connections go to the fuse box that connects to the battery and to the factory harness that would normally go to the alternator. When the breaker is disconnected it cuts power from the battery and the alternator. For the connection between the breaker and the factory harness going to the alternator, I wrapped the bolt with silicon tape to protect it from shorting against ground and heat shrunk it with red to show it was +12V. After all connections were made, I checked with the FLUKE meter to verify continuity was removed when the breaker was flipped. Now that the continuity check was done it was time to install the battery and check everything with power applied. I installed a spare battery box I had for the mini battery kit that sits on the left front side of the frame rail. I hooked the battery up and verified live power disconnect by pulling the emergency power shut-off T-handle at the lower right side of the windshield. Awesome, everything works and no popped fuses. Time to check sensors.
02 – Verify Sensors
C.Wan said he wanted the black version of the APEXi AVC-R and I was able to find one on flea-bay for $130 listed as for parts. The seller said it was not reading boost and after hooking up one myself, I had a feeling it was not hooked up correctly or one of the sensor settings was not set right. I needed power to the car to verify the AVC-R Controller read the pressure sensor correctly before swapping out the black AVC-R on the A/C panel. If it was bad I could at least still swap the housing. After hooking up the AVC-R it showed it was reading -261mmHg, it should be 0. I checked all the other sensors via the PFC commander and saw Boost was -25mmHg (it should be 0 mmHg) and the Fuel Temp Sensor was not reading. I checked the pins at the ECU and it was open. I used FC-Datalogit to log live telemetry to verify the sensors and it also flagged the Fuel Temp Sensor. OK so I have to fix the Boost reading for the AVC-R, recalibrate the PFC map sensor, and fix the open for the Fuel Temp Sensor.
03 – Calibrate Map Sensor and Fix AVC-R Boost Reading
I love FC-Tweak, there is an option on the second page in the car configuration to enable smart map sensor calibration. It allows you to put what the PFC is reading in FC-tweak, (based on your altitude), and then FC-tweak will calibrate the PFC to read 0 mmHg, or whatever the atmospheric pressure is at your elevation. For the calibration, you can select just the map sensor to be calibrated for a new tune, or you can select your entire tuned map to be recalibrated with the new map sensor setting. I put in the offset of -25 mmHg and now the PFC reads +0.03 mmHG, close enough tom 0 as I can get. I looked at the instructions for the AVC-R and found some info online. I plugged in the black AVC-R and selected the correct sensor and wala, it now reads 0 mmHG. I plugged the blue AVC-R to use as a cross reference and everything seemed fine. All I need to do now is transfer the setting on the blue AVC-R to the black AVC-R.
04 – Fix Fuel Temp
OK, this one is totally on me. But I want to share it so someone else does not make the same mistake. Before hooking up the gauges, I wanted to make sure power was going where its supposed to be and that the sensors were all good. The fuel temp sensor was not working so I checked continuity on the connectors at the PFC. The fuel temp sensor wires split to 2 different connectors, and I was getting a reading on one and not the other. I though there has to be a jumper harness somewhere, so I check other connectors near the PFC and found the BrY wire on a white connector. Then I saw what I had done, apparently there is a connector on the dash harness in that area that also uses the same connector, and I had plugged one side of the jumper harness into the dash harness instead of the engine harness. I re-connected the harness and got continuity. I had a spare fuel/water temp sensor, and I plugged it into the connector, I turned on the key and the PFC now shows the fuel temp sensor is active. I also noticed one of the wires at the fuel temp connector had a crack in the insulation, so I coated it with the Dowsil 3145 RTV to protect it.
05 – Black AVC-R
Now that I have verified the Black AVC-R, it was ok to swap it our with the Blue AVC-R. The carbon fiber panel was cut perfectly and the AVC-R fit snug on its own, this made it much easier to bond in place. I used some black J-B Weld plastic bonder. Now that there is a second AVC-R controller, it can be plugged in to the connector under the dash and tuned by someone in the passenger seat. Then you can write down and transfer the settings to the black AVC-R. This will allow the driver to focus on driving and giving you input as you adjust the boost controller.
06 – Install Gauges
Thankfully I had pictures showing me which gauges went where! The AC panel had so much going on with all the connectors going to the EL meter, it was a joy to install. First, I had to connect the harness between the gauges and the EL mater on the AC panel, then I connected the harness that will go from the EL meter to the gauges above the glove box. I had to hold it forward protecting the face from hitting the shifter while connecting the tiny connectors and routing the harnesses where they needed to go and connecting the dash harness to the dimmer and hazard button connectors. Then the panel did not want to fully seat with the clip on the right side. After looking it over I discovered some older epoxy material on the center alignment pin where the panel goes into the dash frame and a small section where the plastic was damaged on the dash side near a stepped lip. I removed the old epoxy and fixed the step, and the panel finally clicked in place. Last I installed the 3 gauges above the glove box by attaching the connector and then seating the gauge into the cut-out. Everything was nicely cut and well planned out. The AEM AFR meter will be installed in a CF panel at a slight angle towards the driver where the right-side vent used to be, so I routed the 02 sensor harness through the dash and out the open vent hole.
07 – Driver Side Foot Panel Hardware
I had put new flanged hex bolt hardware to hold down the driver’s side 5Zigen foot panel but it looked tacky. I remember C.Wan had some socket head pan screws so I went and got some new ones with the correct fender style washer for the open fiberglass side. I did not need to use a washer for the pan head screw in the front where the pedals are since the 5Zigen panel is made out of aluminum and the pan head has plenty of surface area to sit on.
08 – Hood Stops
I got some new hood stops off the net only to get another set of hood stops from C.Wan in a bag of hardware over the weekend. The hood stops set the height of the front of the hood but they also help align the front of the hood by allowing you to see where they touch the hood. Luckily I had the hood latch set just right and the hood latches easily. The back brackets where it mounts under the fender had to be adjusted slightly on the right side to make up for the bolt holes drilled in the wrong location on the right side of the hood.
09 – Instrument Cluster Installed
I took a small break to work on other things because I was getting tired and sore from climbing in and out of the car but I needed to get back to the interior. To install the main instrument panel, its easiest to drop the steering column. Once again I had to protect the front from scratches while I tried to plug the connectors in the back. It took me a while to figure out what part of the connector was the top since both sides of the connector looked identical. On the back of the instrument cluster where the connector goes is an arrow that signifies "top" of connector. There was one connector that did not have the same amount of pins on both side so it could only go in one way, eventually I figured out that "top" was the side with ribs on the back of the connector and the "bottom" is flat towards the back. I plugged it all in and finally got a completed dash to look at.
10 – Check Gauges
I turned the key to on and verified the gauges worked. I turned the lights on and the gauges also lit up. Boost and the AVC-R both read 0 psi. I turned the key on and off a few times to get the fuel pressure up to verify the FPR gauge.
11 – Hood Corner Chip Repair
Unfortunately one of the hood corners chipped in transit over to my place. Once again JB-Weld plastic bond to the rescue. I made a little damn around the chipped corner and filled it with the epoxy and let it dry. Once dry, I shaved it down and then wet sanded it to be level. To prep it for paint I used a cream colored painters pen to cover the black so the top color coat will have an easier time matching. It was a nice surprise to see the cream painters pen match the hood paint.
12 – JDM Side Marker Template
C.Wan had one JDM fender and the other side a US Spec one. The plan is to make a template and cut the hole for the US Spec side and wire in the JDM fender markers. They are also directional in how they are mounted. I'm sure you want to make sure the lettering on the marker is not upside down. I just want to say thanks to Dale Clark on the RX7Club for the thread he made about doing the exact same thing over 10 years ago.
13 – Hood And Fenders On
Aligning the fenders was rather easier since the hood was centered. For the left side fender I had to tweak the bracket on the body side to line up with the slots where the bumper bolts go through on the front of the fender. For both fenders I had to bend back the top bracket the sits at the bottom of the A-pillar and kind of in front of the top hinge door bracket. The rest of the alignment was flexing the fenders at the door and below the side vents while tightening the bolts to hold it in that position. The front of the fenders lined up nice and I tried my best to even the gaps on both sides.
14 – Hood Latch Pins
Now with the hood aligned, I can install the hood latch pins. I had to bend open the back of the clip channel to get the nose of the rivet gun in there. On the bottom side of the rivet I used a brass washer to provide additional support on the bottom side. I taped the washer to a socket and then pushed it onto the bottom of the rivet and then used the rivet gun to pull it all tight. This trick worked great for both sides. When I was done with the riveting, I bent the open part of the Chanel straight again. Next I needed to install the hood latch guide pins. I screwed them in place and set the height so that the pin has a little bit of friction going through the hole. This will prevent the hood from bouncing around and reduce vibrations that can loosen hardware.
15 – Rotary Extreme Hood Damper Kit
C.Wan had an earlier Rotary Extreme FD hood damper kit without the company logo so I wanted to update it with new hardware for him. The gas shocks still worked fine so I only needed to swap the brackets and hardware. The new bracket no longer has the step on the side, the thickness in the recessed part where the nut goes has been reduced to allow the stock hardware to engage with more threads, and the company logo has been added in addition to the letters RE. These are guaranteed to fit on stock hoods, but due to all the variations and imperfections of aftermarket hood...... you may need to modify the bolts hole size on the bracket to compensate for the slop on an aftermarket hood. On C.Wans hood, the mold has the right side bolts to far inward, resulting in the hood frame needing to be notched to fit the RE hood bracket. Other then all that, everything lines up nice and the hood shuts fine.
16 – Hood Crack Fixed
There was another big crack on the bottom front right corner of the hood. It looks like over time the hood may have been pushed down to seat the pin, but at the same time the hood bumper was applying force in the opposite direction. So it's easy to see over time how this could have happened, but I'm sure it all started from the hole that was made for the pin to go through in the frame of the hood. I cut a little bracket and riveted it across the crack, then I covered the engine bay with my car cover to protect it from overspray while I paint the bracket white. I followed up with some clear coat and it made the bracket look more creamy like the color of the car.
Thanks for the read and hopefully I'll have another productive weekend.
Calvin Wan’s Drift FD3S Period Correct Refresh By Rotary Extreme
C.Wan FD3S Refresh – Update 29
It's one thing to put panels back on a car, it's a completely different story when some frame work has been done. When frame work is done, you need to test fit everything to see if you need to make any additional adjustments, otherwise you'll be forced to make adjustments after you thought your frame work was done. It is also worth looking into the conditions the repair was made under, was it during a battle where down time needed to be minimized? If a fast repair from battle damage needed to be made then they did an amazing job. If the frame repair was something paid for, I would be upset. The good thing about this situation is I have experience in massaging an RX7 front end after discovering that my own car had some hidden damage in the left front as well. So, let's get on with it.
01 - 99 Bumper Lights
02 - JDM Side Markers
03 - New Starter
04 - C-West Front Bumper Fitment
05 - Panels Not Aligned
06 - Black Screens
07 - Front Left Frame Adjustment
08 - Vertex Front Bumper Fitted
09 - C-West Front Bumper Fitted
01 - 99 Bumper Lights
I bought C.Wan a pair of 99 spec bumper lights to trade for the original ones I gave him that had a unique feature on the clear cover on the lens. I also found another set I had and gave him the extra set so both bumpers could have their own lights. I plugged in the lights to make sure the running lights, signals, and hazards worked. The lights did not come with hardware to secure them so I had to find that and I used some larger washers to distribute the force with the holes were at on the bumpers. The stock running lights were cheap halogen lights that looked like the orange turn signals so I replaced them with some super bright LED's on both bumpers to match the headlights and for better contrast with the turn signals.
02 - JDM Side Markers
C.Wan wants me to install some JDM side markers, the left side fender needs to be cut for it. There are arrows on the lens showing the orientation of the install. The set C.Wan had was missing the bulb holder and I was lucky to find a set with the pigtails. I googled the side markers and once again Dale Clark on the RX7 club already has a write up on exactly what I need to do, thanks for making my job easier Dale.
03 - New Starter
I have no idea of what happened to the starter other then it was sitting for a really long time. I was checking all the wiring and I wanted to make sure the starter engaged. I disconnected the fuel pump and turned the key and only heard a click. WTH?!?!. I checked the connection and everything seemed fine. I jumped the 12v to the starter solenoid and I heard the starter spin, which is odd because that means the gear is not extending to the flywheel. I took the starter off and when I hit the solenoid, the gear extended out but does not spin. When I hit the starter motor and the solenoid the start only spins but does not extend. Then it was intermittent on doing nothing and spinning without extending. Anyways I got a new starter installed it and it worked like it's supposed to. Also the mini battery I got for the car over 2 years ago still holds a charge. It was week from sitting but after charging it, all the lights and electronics are working fine.
04 - C-West Front Bumper Fitment
I'm not sure if the C-West front bumper was ran before with the Rotary Extreme VM kit because the back of the mouth kits the lower part of the radiator, to make it fit I had to cut it to clear the side brackets. The mouth of the bumper fits perfectly with the lower part of the radiator. I did notice the left side of the bumper near the headlight sits higher then the right side. More on that later.
05 - Panels Not Aligned
With the hood and fender on, now is the time to align the pop up lights and front bumpers. The right side pop-up light and fender to bumper alignment was fine. The left side definitely needed work. The pop-up light was too close to the fender and the fender to bumper was pulled in making the bumper touch the pop up light cover. You can also see the left side of the bumper sitting higher near the pop up light then the right side of the bumper.
06 - Black Screens
C.Wan requested that the screens for the FEED pop up light and for the hood be painted satin black. I did paint the FEED vent satin black. Since I was missing 1 of the 4 screens for the hood vents I was able to find the same style screen already painted in black. Some of the bonded wire retainers were missing from the front larger holes so I had to glue the corners of the vents where there were no wires to secure them. I used I piece of wood on top of the hood and zip tied the screens in place while the glue dried to make sure they were as flush as possible. While the glue was drying I cut the screens for the smaller rear vents and installed them.
The left pop up light needed to go towards the hood so I took out the top back screws, the bottom middle screw, and used an extension to tap it inward where the pop up light bracket bolts to the side support. I gave it a few good taps, pushed the headlight inward, bolted it down, re-adjusted the fender, and was happy I got the clearance I needed. The next issue was the upper radiator support where its welded above the frame rail was too high. Using a roll of felt to protect the paint, I hit it back down with a rubber mallet and test fit both bumpers and now the height of the left and right side corners at the pop up lights are the same. Last I tapped the lower L-bracket down of the hood latch, then adjusted the upper part of the hood latch down further to try and close the gap between the front of the hood and the bumpers. I'm hoping the top radiator cooling panel painted in the color of the car will hide the gap between the hood and bumper.
08 - Vertex Front Bumper Fitted
After the frame adjustment I did a fit check on the Vertex bumper and everything lined up. The corners near the head lights are higher but that probably the hood curving down at the edges. I did notice the left side of the bottom of the bumper was hitting the tire so I cut it back just enough to clear, it looks like the right side was already cut to clear.
09 - C-West Front Bumper Fitted
The C-West bumper fit much better as well too. Same issues with the corners being higher near the pop up lights but it's uniform and way better than before. I think the Feed side pop up light bracket needs to be adjust downward just a hair to get the front level with the bumper.
It's been slow working on the car the past few weeks since I needed to take care of some personal stuff. I'll keep chugging away at it and hopefully soon it'll be back on the road.
Calvin Wan’s Drift FD3S Period Correct Refresh By Rotary Extreme
C.Wan FD3S Refresh – Update 30
I said it before and I’ll say it again, I want to set-up my car just like C.Wans. I’m going to mimic the FPR, fuel filter, fuel line set-up, LIM heat shield, and now the LRB Undertray with the Dimples. I’m sure there is some other stuff I can’t remember. So, I wanted to give the LRB Undertray it’s own update since it was a little bit more then just bolting it up to get it to work with C.Wans car. This was due to having different bumper options and adding dimples per his request.
01 – Undertray Cut To Fit
02 – Undertray Bend To Fit Bumper
03 – Undertray Holes Cut
04 – Undertray Dimples
05 – Undertray Bend Dimples To Fit
01 – Undertray Cut To Fit
I just want to say that the LRB undertray is amazing right out of the box. The slotted tabs on the side panels are extremely strong and will hold the undertray without any issues. I like to add L-Brackets to lock in side to side alignment and for piece of mind. For the L-Brackets I use rivnuts so they can be bolted in place. I do not know the condition of the oil cooler lines on the car that LRB used to make the initial design on, but it’s always best practice to check for rubbing when you install your undertray. I needed to remove about ¼ inch on the side panels to safely clear the oil cooler lines due to rubbing, which over time would have cut through – not good.
02 – Undertray Bend To Fit Bumper
With the undertray locked in place it was time to test fit the bumpers. First was the C-West bumper since it had the extended mouth annnnnnnnnd it didn’t even make it halfway on without being stabbed in the gut by the leading knife edge on the LRB undertray where it bolts to the factory bumper. Damn, I needed to figure out how to bend the front part down without any bite marks from a vice or tooling marks for that matter. Ah-Ha !!!! Thankfully the base of my lift is tweaked just enough for me to slide the front of the undertray under it, then I pulled up to try and get the angle I needed. I gotta tell you, this thing is tough and hard to bend. Unfortunately, I could not get a tight bend, it was more of a gradual bend and because of this I had to cut off the front retaining tabs on the side panels. I added another set of L-Brackets to secure the front, so all is good. With the undertray bolted back in place I test fit both the C-West and Vertex bumpers, and all was good.
03 – Undertray Holes Cut
I drew a grid on the undertray to give me an idea of how many holes I could make. I used the tape measure to draw the initial square and the cross in the middle to make the 4 boxes, then after that I used the piece of wood and drew lines from corner to corner. The holes must be offset to make room for the dimples. Wherever the “X” and “+” overlapped is where I would cut the holes. I drew a circle around the cross points, drilled piolet holes, used the 2” hole saw to make a grove to put some cutting fluid, and then continued cutting all holes. The last thing I had to do was to debur both sides of the hole.
04 – Undertray Dimples
I had bought a 2” dimple die a while back when C.Wan told me he wanted to add this feature to the LRB undertray. I had a few ideas of how I was going to press the dies together, none of them were half as good as using the correct tool for the job. I found a HF Pittsburgh die press for 50% off on ebay, major score. The press end is bulky but easy to use. The threaded shaft goes into the press, you slide the dimple die or cutting tool on, orientate the dimple die on the side of the metal that you want going up or down, slide the backing plate on, and then screw the lock nut or in my case the cutting bit on to hold it all in place. The hydraulic pump has a valve you rotate to hold pressure and release it. I started in the middle and worked my way out. I noticed that the undertray started to bow like a banana. I cleaned all the red ink off and went for a test fit, it was way off. The dimples caused it to warp, and the front was lower than the bumper now.
05 – Undertray Bend Dimples To Fit
I took the undertray back to the lift, I slid the front part under the lift, placed a piece of wood under it, and stepped on the back of it to try an straighten it out. Yoooo, the dimple dies do make it strong because it was harder to bend than before. I test fit both bumpers again and thankfully I was able to bend it back enough to get the front at the right height needed for the next step which will be making adapter panels for both front bumpers to bolt to the front of the LRB undertray.
Calvin Wan’s Drift FD3S Period Correct Refresh By Rotary Extreme
C.Wan FD3S Refresh – Update 31
In this update I added the JDM Fender side marker to the US Spec left side fender and made a harness for both JDM side markers to get power. I made some oil cooler ducts and adapter panels to attach C.Wan’s 2 types of bumpers to the LRB undertray. Last I installed some nice CF pieces. The instructions were simple, make it strong and functional but make it so when I hit something it breaks at a weak point - AKA put a ziptie at that spot... lol.
Cool Fun Fact - C-Wan informed me that the C-West bumper was wind tunnel designed and tested - the bumper definitely looks the part.
01 – Side Marker Cut Out
02 – Side Marker Harness
03 – Oil Cooler Duct Top and Bottom
04 – Oil Cooler Duct Sides
05 – C-West Undertray Adapter Panel
06 – Vertex Undertray Adapter Panel
07 – Radiator Air Guide
08 – Fender Vents and Canards
01 – Side Marker Cut Out
The side markers are not side specific, but they are orientation specific. The big side with the plastic prong has a small lip that sits under the metal and applies pressure towards the rear of the fender and the small side has a metal spring loaded prong that sits under the metal towards the front of the fender and holds it in place. I drew the template by placing the paper on the inside of the JDM fender and drawing the outside, then I cut it out and placed it on the US-Spec fender. I measured at least 20 times to cut it right. I drilled out the pattern and then cut through the holes with a Dremel cutting wheel to get comfortable with the tool before I start cutting at the line. The Dremel is easily controllable, you just need to be careful and patient. You need to cut in sections and let the metal cool so it does no cook the paint near the edge. After I cut the template out, I test fit the marker and saw that there was some interference with 4 little rubber pegs that hold the rubber seal to the back of the marker. I made 4 little notches in the cutout on the fender and the side marker snaps in fine.
02 – Side Marker Harness
I was able to use the left over speaker wire from some speakers I recently installed on my car for the side marker lights on C-Wan's car. I crimped the side marker lights on one side and ran the wire through the same protective sheath I used for the oil injector lines. I routed the harness by passing through the side marker hole first and running it up to the front of the car. I tapped it into the harness where it comes out of the plastic retainer next to the headlight. The black wire and the green with black stripe wire are the wires you want. I cut the plastic ends off the crimps to make them smaller and spliced the harness wire in place, I used heat-shrink over all splices and then wrapped the splices with silicone tape.
03 – Oil Cooler Duct Top and Bottom
The oil cooler ducts were tricky. I had to make them work with 2 different bumpers with vents at different places. The C-West bumper has a larger oil cooler vent with a small vent next to it while the Vertex bumper has the single oil cooler vent on each side but a much larger mouth. The oil cooler duct panel on the inside had to clear the additional vent on the C-West bumper and I made it so it fir between the Vertex openings with it being closer to the wall of the mouth. First I installed rivnuts on the oil coolers where the factory ducts use plastic inserts. Then I made a paper template to work with both bumpers. Last I made just the top and bottom pieces in aluminum. I also had to make the top piece so it cleared the reinforcement bar like the stock duct.
04 – Oil Cooler Duct Sides
The outside duct panel was easier to make since the vents on both bumpers were not that far off. I cut it to clear the reinforcement bar and rivited it in place. Next I made the inside panels. These were the tricky ones because they had to bend to clear different vents and also the framework on the front of the car. I really like how they came out, sometimes I even surprise myself.
05 – C-West Undertray Adapter Panel
The undertray adapter panels are different between the bumpers, I decided to make the smaller one first and use that as a base template to make the larger one. I used construction paper to make the template. Then it's the usual trace it out on your preferred material and cut it out. I did not have a brake wide enough to get a clean bend so I had to get creative with my vice and some wood. I installed the panel with rivets on the bumper side and put rivnuts on the LRB panel so the adapter panel can be bolted in place. For time attack and track the panel can be bolted in. For drift or gymkhana events the panel can be ziptied to the undertray so if something is hit the ziptie will give way and allow the bumper to flex and hopefully not get too much damage.
06 – Vertex Undertray Adapter Panel
I repeated the same process to make the Vertex adapter panel. I just needed to add a little more in the front with a more rounded curve. The Vertex bumper fits really nice and has a nice smooth look to it.
07 – Radiator Air Guide
The radiator sits higher to clear the LRB undertray, this puts the endtank at the top of the bottom mouth of the C-West bumper. The end tank is also visible with the Vertex bumper. I wanted to make a guide of some sort that will be functional and visually appealing. I measured the distance with both bumpers and made a panel to help airflow go up the radiator instead of half of it going under the radiator with the C-West bumper installed while also fitting behind the Vertex bumper mouth. I tapped the post coming off the bottom of the radiator and made 2 brackets to bolt there. I bent one side of the panel to give it strength and also to line up with the angle of the radiator, then I riveted the panel onto the angled bracket, and added some door trim to the bottom of the panel to protect it from scratching the C-West bumper as it's installed. It's something so simple but makes a big difference.
08 – Fender Vents and Canards
The original plan was to install the stock fender vents, but since the tabs were broken C-Wan decided to run the CF vents he had before. I added the same mesh to the vents that was used on the hood so everything matched. I also found the canards for the Vertex bumper. I gave everything a quick polish and installed the pieces. This is really a sexy clean looking car.
