Back in a Rx7. 94 VR Base Build
#1
Back in a Rx7 - 94 VR Base Build
This is a little overdo since I got the car in February, but better late than never.
Background on me, I owned an '88 GTU for about 10 years. Got me through high school, college, and some drift events as my only car till I finished college. Learned a lot from basic wrenching, maintenance and some driving ability. I had a ton of memories in it. I decided to swap the motor for a TII in 2017. But due to some issues with the new motor it basically needed to be pulled again an needed a sizable chunk of change to have it rebuilt again. It left a sour taste in my mouth and I parted with the car (actually to a member of the forum) in the beginning of 2018. Picked up a R32 Skyline GTS-T shortly after. It was fun, but they were starting to appear everywhere locally and it wasn't something I was passionate about it or really wanted to build so I sold it in January for a fair bit more than I paid for it. No complaints there. Was mulling over what to do next car wise. Either pocketing the cash, selling my daily and getting one do it all or finding another car. Was leaning strongly towards a Porsches but decided to look back at Rx-7, specifically FDs. Always wanted one when I had my FC and never thought that I could feasibly own one. Till now. So I decided I wanted LHD car in either Montego Blue or Red. After a month or so of searching I decided on a red base model from a gentleman in Northern Virginia. He had only had the car for a few months, but had come across a CYM and this one needed to go. Flew down to check out the car during the second weekend of February and had it loaded on the transport that night. So here are the details:
1994 Base Model
Vintage Red over black leather. No rear wiper. No wing.
74k miles on the chassis, with a rebuild in the past 5 years.
Compression numbers were all above 100 on all faces for both rotors.
Came with a 3" downpipe, metal AST and Koyo rad.
Photos on delivery, bonus points for anyone who understand the temporary plate from my Skyline.
Background on me, I owned an '88 GTU for about 10 years. Got me through high school, college, and some drift events as my only car till I finished college. Learned a lot from basic wrenching, maintenance and some driving ability. I had a ton of memories in it. I decided to swap the motor for a TII in 2017. But due to some issues with the new motor it basically needed to be pulled again an needed a sizable chunk of change to have it rebuilt again. It left a sour taste in my mouth and I parted with the car (actually to a member of the forum) in the beginning of 2018. Picked up a R32 Skyline GTS-T shortly after. It was fun, but they were starting to appear everywhere locally and it wasn't something I was passionate about it or really wanted to build so I sold it in January for a fair bit more than I paid for it. No complaints there. Was mulling over what to do next car wise. Either pocketing the cash, selling my daily and getting one do it all or finding another car. Was leaning strongly towards a Porsches but decided to look back at Rx-7, specifically FDs. Always wanted one when I had my FC and never thought that I could feasibly own one. Till now. So I decided I wanted LHD car in either Montego Blue or Red. After a month or so of searching I decided on a red base model from a gentleman in Northern Virginia. He had only had the car for a few months, but had come across a CYM and this one needed to go. Flew down to check out the car during the second weekend of February and had it loaded on the transport that night. So here are the details:
1994 Base Model
Vintage Red over black leather. No rear wiper. No wing.
74k miles on the chassis, with a rebuild in the past 5 years.
Compression numbers were all above 100 on all faces for both rotors.
Came with a 3" downpipe, metal AST and Koyo rad.
Photos on delivery, bonus points for anyone who understand the temporary plate from my Skyline.
Last edited by K!NCH; 08-19-20 at 09:07 AM.
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Aristo (10-29-20)
#2
After getting it registered and driving it around a little I noticed the ride was REALLY harsh. I didn't even think about it during the test drive, and just assumed that's how FDs since they're a proper sports car. But inspecting it a little closer I found that the tires were from 2002 and tapping on them sounded like you were knocking on plastic. From my understanding and reading the owner before the gentleman I bought it off of had it for many years and only put a couple hundred miles on it a year. Probably bought it in 02 and never thought about the tires.
Not good. So immediately ordered a set of Firestone Indy Firehawk 500s. A 300TW tire that I had on my Skyline and really enjoyed, not to mention very affordable for the performance if you're not worried about the brand. While the car was getting the tires on I was able to get under it and take a look.
I knew that car was clean and well taken care of but this was a pleasant surprise.
Also attributing to the stiffer ride are what looks like upgraded struts and springs. Not sure what the brand or specs on them, apart from a GR-2 sticker on them.
Hover mode. But with the new tires on the car rides much better (not to mention safer).
Not good. So immediately ordered a set of Firestone Indy Firehawk 500s. A 300TW tire that I had on my Skyline and really enjoyed, not to mention very affordable for the performance if you're not worried about the brand. While the car was getting the tires on I was able to get under it and take a look.
I knew that car was clean and well taken care of but this was a pleasant surprise.
Also attributing to the stiffer ride are what looks like upgraded struts and springs. Not sure what the brand or specs on them, apart from a GR-2 sticker on them.
Hover mode. But with the new tires on the car rides much better (not to mention safer).
#3
So as far as I knew, the paint on this car is all original. And with that is the typical fade on the plastic piece. Specifically the mirrors. So I had a local detail shop do a detail job and paint correction.
Before:
After
Very happy with the results. The mirrors still fade after a month but I picked up some polish on their recommendation to keep them shining. Give them a little TLC about once a month.
Before:
After
Very happy with the results. The mirrors still fade after a month but I picked up some polish on their recommendation to keep them shining. Give them a little TLC about once a month.
#4
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Looks awesome!
Those are KYB GR-2 shocks. Can't tell if it's got springs or not. Long term you may want to research suspension and see what fits your needs and budget.
Dale
Those are KYB GR-2 shocks. Can't tell if it's got springs or not. Long term you may want to research suspension and see what fits your needs and budget.
Dale
#6
So now that it was looking correct, decided to tackle some maintenance. What's bee completed so far.
- Full silicone vacuum hose replacement
- OEM Coolant hose replacement
- FPD Delete
- Injector O-ring and seal inspection/replacement
- Dale Clark Check Valves
- FC thermoswitch
No photos of that nightmare because that was done through a local shop that did similar work on my Skyline.
Car was down for a few weeks, with a fair bit of troubleshooting and double checking, but car runs better than when I got it. Plus the peace of mind was absolutely worth it.
- Full silicone vacuum hose replacement
- OEM Coolant hose replacement
- FPD Delete
- Injector O-ring and seal inspection/replacement
- Dale Clark Check Valves
- FC thermoswitch
No photos of that nightmare because that was done through a local shop that did similar work on my Skyline.
Car was down for a few weeks, with a fair bit of troubleshooting and double checking, but car runs better than when I got it. Plus the peace of mind was absolutely worth it.
Last edited by K!NCH; 08-19-20 at 11:05 AM.
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#8
Small part I picked up was this Autospeed horn button from a member on here. The stock wheel gets the job done but it really doesn't suit the car. I had a Nardi Gara in my FC and will probably go a similar route for this, but I wanted to retain my cruise control.
#9
So that pretty much brings the car up to today. Most recent thing that's been done was some J-Auto rear sway bar endlinks, and a Rx7Store High Flow Cat. Car is still way to quiet, but a cat-back will have to wait till I decide on a ECU.
I'll add some photos of local cars and coffee and meets once I'm home and on my personal computer. Trying to do it from mobile is a pain.
Other than that the car has been great and I forgot how much I missed being in the Rx7 community.
I don't plan to do anything crazy build wise. Just a nice simple street car that keeps the car pretty true to its roots. I'd like to keep the twin turbos for as long as they'll let me, and only go to BNRs when they fail.
So looking forward, this is what I have in mind:
- Rear Pillowballs. Have the infamous rear-end clunk. Waiting for J-Auto to get some dust boots back in stock place an order.
- ECU: Either a PowerFC or a Haltech PnP. Still researching and weighing options.
- Exhaust: The Tanabe Medallion is on my mind. But finding an "old school" period correct piece would be ideal
- Intercooler: Some sort of SMIC
- Coilovers: Leaning towards Ohlins, because I want to do this car right. I had a variety on my FC but the Fortune Autos were my favorite, so maybe I'll see what their recent products are like
- Body cosmetics: R1 lip (ideally in carbon if that even exists), Shine/Feed sidesteps, maybe a rear diffuser, '99 spec tails, RE-A tail light cover, etc.
- Wheels: Thinking Gramlight 57DR in 18x9.5.
Hoping I can get the pillowballs in before I park it for the winter and have a clunk free fall. Biggest decision will be either coilovers or ECU first, but neither are a necessity.
I'll add some photos of local cars and coffee and meets once I'm home and on my personal computer. Trying to do it from mobile is a pain.
Other than that the car has been great and I forgot how much I missed being in the Rx7 community.
I don't plan to do anything crazy build wise. Just a nice simple street car that keeps the car pretty true to its roots. I'd like to keep the twin turbos for as long as they'll let me, and only go to BNRs when they fail.
So looking forward, this is what I have in mind:
- Rear Pillowballs. Have the infamous rear-end clunk. Waiting for J-Auto to get some dust boots back in stock place an order.
- ECU: Either a PowerFC or a Haltech PnP. Still researching and weighing options.
- Exhaust: The Tanabe Medallion is on my mind. But finding an "old school" period correct piece would be ideal
- Intercooler: Some sort of SMIC
- Coilovers: Leaning towards Ohlins, because I want to do this car right. I had a variety on my FC but the Fortune Autos were my favorite, so maybe I'll see what their recent products are like
- Body cosmetics: R1 lip (ideally in carbon if that even exists), Shine/Feed sidesteps, maybe a rear diffuser, '99 spec tails, RE-A tail light cover, etc.
- Wheels: Thinking Gramlight 57DR in 18x9.5.
Hoping I can get the pillowballs in before I park it for the winter and have a clunk free fall. Biggest decision will be either coilovers or ECU first, but neither are a necessity.
#11
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
For your goals a Haltech is total overkill. PowerFC will work wonderfully. You aren't far from Banzai Racing in Indiana, they can get a PFC set up and tuned in for you very nicely.
Tanabe Medallion is a nice exhaust, that's a solid way to go. There's a whole world of exhausts out there for sure. Only ones I'd stay away from is the N1 Dual (fits terrible/melts bumper and sounds awful) and Blitz Nur-spec (sounds horrible).
For the lip, Shine has a really sweet copy of the Mazdaspeed front lip that bolts to the 93 bumper. Looks like the R1 lip but just a little more "umph", you can get it in fiberglass or CF. I got it in fiberglass and had it wrapped in satin black vinyl, looks great and fits great.
Dale
Tanabe Medallion is a nice exhaust, that's a solid way to go. There's a whole world of exhausts out there for sure. Only ones I'd stay away from is the N1 Dual (fits terrible/melts bumper and sounds awful) and Blitz Nur-spec (sounds horrible).
For the lip, Shine has a really sweet copy of the Mazdaspeed front lip that bolts to the 93 bumper. Looks like the R1 lip but just a little more "umph", you can get it in fiberglass or CF. I got it in fiberglass and had it wrapped in satin black vinyl, looks great and fits great.
Dale
#12
For your goals a Haltech is total overkill. PowerFC will work wonderfully. You aren't far from Banzai Racing in Indiana, they can get a PFC set up and tuned in for you very nicely.
Tanabe Medallion is a nice exhaust, that's a solid way to go. There's a whole world of exhausts out there for sure. Only ones I'd stay away from is the N1 Dual (fits terrible/melts bumper and sounds awful) and Blitz Nur-spec (sounds horrible).
For the lip, Shine has a really sweet copy of the Mazdaspeed front lip that bolts to the 93 bumper. Looks like the R1 lip but just a little more "umph", you can get it in fiberglass or CF. I got it in fiberglass and had it wrapped in satin black vinyl, looks great and fits great.
Dale
Tanabe Medallion is a nice exhaust, that's a solid way to go. There's a whole world of exhausts out there for sure. Only ones I'd stay away from is the N1 Dual (fits terrible/melts bumper and sounds awful) and Blitz Nur-spec (sounds horrible).
For the lip, Shine has a really sweet copy of the Mazdaspeed front lip that bolts to the 93 bumper. Looks like the R1 lip but just a little more "umph", you can get it in fiberglass or CF. I got it in fiberglass and had it wrapped in satin black vinyl, looks great and fits great.
Dale
I really want to do the ECU first just so I can do an exhaust lol. But I'd pass on the N1 duals for sure, just doesn't look right. I want to keep that oval shaped muffler over a cantaloupe canon unless it was that style RE-A dolphin tip.
I saw that piece on Shine's website but I think I've seen one other example of it on google. I'll need search out some photos of your car. I had a roof wing from them on my Rx7 and their products are fantastic.
#13
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
My recent thread on Plastidipping has pictures of my car, you can see it there. I think all of them are after I installed that lip. It's also one piece so you don't have the seam in the middle like the R1 lip.
On exhausts, don't forget the Racing Beat exhausts, they are really nice and canister style. Unless you want something more JDM.
The safeties on the Haltech are nice, but again you are wanting a nice street car, not a 10/10ths track or drift car. Get a real water temp gauge and boost gauge and go drive it. I've been running a PowerFC on my car for 15 years or so, zero problems with a someone sloppy tune by myself. With a good tune from a shop like Banzai you'd have a great, fast, fun car.
Dale
On exhausts, don't forget the Racing Beat exhausts, they are really nice and canister style. Unless you want something more JDM.
The safeties on the Haltech are nice, but again you are wanting a nice street car, not a 10/10ths track or drift car. Get a real water temp gauge and boost gauge and go drive it. I've been running a PowerFC on my car for 15 years or so, zero problems with a someone sloppy tune by myself. With a good tune from a shop like Banzai you'd have a great, fast, fun car.
Dale
#14
My recent thread on Plastidipping has pictures of my car, you can see it there. I think all of them are after I installed that lip. It's also one piece so you don't have the seam in the middle like the R1 lip.
On exhausts, don't forget the Racing Beat exhausts, they are really nice and canister style. Unless you want something more JDM.
The safeties on the Haltech are nice, but again you are wanting a nice street car, not a 10/10ths track or drift car. Get a real water temp gauge and boost gauge and go drive it. I've been running a PowerFC on my car for 15 years or so, zero problems with a someone sloppy tune by myself. With a good tune from a shop like Banzai you'd have a great, fast, fun car.
Dale
On exhausts, don't forget the Racing Beat exhausts, they are really nice and canister style. Unless you want something more JDM.
The safeties on the Haltech are nice, but again you are wanting a nice street car, not a 10/10ths track or drift car. Get a real water temp gauge and boost gauge and go drive it. I've been running a PowerFC on my car for 15 years or so, zero problems with a someone sloppy tune by myself. With a good tune from a shop like Banzai you'd have a great, fast, fun car.
Dale
Yeah RB is always a good choice. And guilty of wanting that JDMness, yo.
That's a valid point. You would recommend a water temp and boost gauge in addition to the PFC commander?
#15
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Yep. The commander is OK for checking on things but it's an awkward size/shape and nothing you can easily put in a field of view.
I have a dual gauge pod in my car with old school Greddy boost and water temp gauges and they are a great asset to have. If you wanted to go more minimal you could de-linearize the stock water temp gauge and do something else for a boost gauge, or just have a boost gauge mounted somewhere. It's worth keeping an eye on both since there's a number of things that can cause boost problems or overheating problems.
Dale
I have a dual gauge pod in my car with old school Greddy boost and water temp gauges and they are a great asset to have. If you wanted to go more minimal you could de-linearize the stock water temp gauge and do something else for a boost gauge, or just have a boost gauge mounted somewhere. It's worth keeping an eye on both since there's a number of things that can cause boost problems or overheating problems.
Dale
#16
Yep. The commander is OK for checking on things but it's an awkward size/shape and nothing you can easily put in a field of view.
I have a dual gauge pod in my car with old school Greddy boost and water temp gauges and they are a great asset to have. If you wanted to go more minimal you could de-linearize the stock water temp gauge and do something else for a boost gauge, or just have a boost gauge mounted somewhere. It's worth keeping an eye on both since there's a number of things that can cause boost problems or overheating problems.
Dale
I have a dual gauge pod in my car with old school Greddy boost and water temp gauges and they are a great asset to have. If you wanted to go more minimal you could de-linearize the stock water temp gauge and do something else for a boost gauge, or just have a boost gauge mounted somewhere. It's worth keeping an eye on both since there's a number of things that can cause boost problems or overheating problems.
Dale
I saw that speedhut has some that match the stock gauge design , which would be ideal.
#17
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (32)
Nice car and super clean!
I highly recommend the Speedhut gauges if you want to stay close to stock appearance. I have one of their boost gauges mounted in the steering cowl and it looks like it came from the factory.
#19
Senior Member
iTrader: (23)
Looks like a 1994 PEG (Popular Equipment Group) not a base
At least thats my window sticker calls it--1994 sunroof leather no wiper no bose
Either way very nice car and even better to start with a clean example than a beat up one and have to replace everything!!
At least thats my window sticker calls it--1994 sunroof leather no wiper no bose
Either way very nice car and even better to start with a clean example than a beat up one and have to replace everything!!
Last edited by ls1swap; 08-19-20 at 07:53 PM. Reason: """
#22
#23
Plate have anything to do with this? https://gundam.fandom.com/wiki/RX-0_...dam_02_Banshee
I've been thinking about another Gundam related plate for this one down the road. Maybe Sinanju or Sazabi...
Also I see you're in Cinci as well. Which part are you in?
#24
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (283)
Rear UCA's and LCA's with new OEM pillows & seals.
Pic on post #32:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...1146410/page2/
Jim T
Pic on post #32:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...1146410/page2/
Jim T
#25
Junior Member
I’m over in the west side in Delhi.