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Installed the JP3 Motorsports fuel filter relocation kit with a supplied fuel filter from IRP.
Be sure to have extra long extended curved prong pliers and a 7mm 1/4 drive socket to tighten the supplied fuel line clamps that are above the differential. It’s a lot easier to perform then using a flathead and not having eyes on the clamp head.
What do you mean by service? They look new...
That said, the heim joints can be replaced if/when they wear out. I replaced them on my old Rotary Extreme arms. Try FK Rod Ends ? Precision Rod Ends and Spherical Bearings for replacement parts
Today, I got around to installing the toe links and the rear sway bar links provided by J-Auto. I also installed the Garage Alpha Baffle and that was pretty straight forward. Thanks for the support these two companies give to the community.
Got the Racing beat Front sway bar and J auto swaybar links installed today. I cleaned the wheel wells and scraped off old balancing weight stickers on the inside of the wheels.
The rubber on the endlinks were cracking and in some spots torn. One bushing on the oem swaybar was cracked.
Did you find you were able to corner balance it easier and adjust preload with the sway bar end links, or did you set it and forget it?
We just set it and forget it. I should adjust the swaybar links myself while I have 200lbs in the drivers side foot well.
I just don’t know if I should preload or leave it neutral. What do spirited drivers, autocross era, and track drivers do in regards to adjustable sway bar endlinks?
What do spirited drivers, autocross era, and track drivers do in regards to adjustable sway bar endlinks?
I am looking into adjustable sway bar links for myself, so I was hoping I could copy off of your paper
There are dark arts in dialing in suspension set up. I have had three separate alignment specialists set up my car for track (and a few other goof ***** trying their hand on alignments - snapped trailing arm while driving; that was scary!), and every one of them always hated how the prior shop did it. There are personal preferences, so I will step cautiously with my response; please take it with a grain of salt
Originally Posted by Colin Chapman
"Make the suspension adjustable and they will adjust it wrong -- look what they can do to a Weber carburetor in just a few moments of stupidity with a screwdriver. "
At a quick glance, the biggest key is that the sway bar end links should be disconnected before corner-weighing to eliminate pre-loading. Neutral looks like the way to go.
Chasing set up is an endless cycle - give it some sessions as is and see how it feels.
sometimes you can get away with non-adjustable end links due to slop between the attachment holes, but it just depends how far off kilter it had to be adjusted between the two sides during the corner weighting process
in that case you can remove one end completely and have the other three loosened on that axle pair, then after cornering it if you can get the loose end back in easily and torque all four down to spec without much pressure on the arms it’s good to go. Even a little pressure is ok, because if you’ve done this enough then you understand there’s such a thing as being too fussy. There are other factors like stiction and such that always keep it from ever being truly perfect on a street type suspension. It’s a “close is good enough” hand grenade and horseshoe kind of a scenario.
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So, my compressor failed because of a loss of Freon. The Freon was released by the high and low pressure valve on the passenger side hardlines. I put in new valves and vacuumed the system and it held -ig but the air compressor clutch wasn’t kicking on. So I must have burnt it out when I tried using it on a cruise. I discussed this with IRP and they mentioned that the 8374 and the downpipe could have played a role in melting the soft valve seals. Which under the circumstances released the Freon.
IRP says that this issue is new and theyve developed a shield for the valves to decrease the heat. I’m also going to wrap the hardlines with DEI for extra preventative protection.
So I purchased a new compressor on eBay. The compressors are different. We used a 93 compressor and lines from my old mb touring on the chaste white. Long story short.
The new compressor uses a non flared compressor line. The 93 compressor has a flared insert which isn’t compatible. Another note, the new compressor uses a 12 mm m8 1.25 thread pitch. The old compressor line mount uses a 10mm bolt.
I was extremely lucky that I purchased lines that went up for sale on this forum which still had Mazda tags and sku numbers on them. They are a nla and I had saved them for several years. Not sure why. Anyways today was the day I actually used those brand new compressor hard/soft lines. They had no flare on the insert and fit directly and compatibly with the new compressor. Also Regarding the M12 bolt mount.
So, everything fits correctly except the fact that one line is missing an adapter that connects to the passenger side hardline next to the turbo. Not only is is too short, I tested to see if the two thread pitches were compatible and they are not. So I removed the hardline to the firewall and the new nla line to be adapted, fitted, and extended.
Interesting find. I recently noticed that my AC had crapped out as well. I had planned on just putting that on my list for when I took my car back to IR. I was worried it would be a big issue. I'm happy to hear they have seen this before, and there is a solution.
Well this was super fun to do. I had to grind off a portion the stock brace ears to have the diff cradle ears fit.
We had to remove both braces, droop the exhaust, and do a lot of shimmy’s. Thanks to Eric, Colten, and Jacob, we got it on.
Hi Rocketeerbandit, that is a nice shot of the 2in1 diff brace! I have one in my car and you will no longer have issues with wheel hops when launching during autocross starts.
So for your compressor. Is the issue that you had Mana and then got a Denso. Or is this a 3rd variation?
I had a pruchased a brand new mana compressor but I the car used denso lines. That started the entire fiasco. So, in a box on a shelf, I had brand new Mazda compressor lines sitting, but I didn’t have a complete set. Now I’m waiting for IRP to make custom lines for my car.
Last edited by Rocketeerbandit; 08-29-21 at 07:02 AM.
Its been nearly two years since my last post on this thread regarding the Rx-7 and I thought it would be the time to update the many things I have accomplished during the hiatus. I have still kept up with a pictorial document of each and every step that I'm about to lambast this build with in the next several hours. Maybe days. You've been forewarned and thank you for your patience in the process.
Last year, I took the transmission out to have it rebuilt locally due to the 5th gear synchronizer failing. The Local shop had a two month wait time before they were able to receive the vehicle. My appointment was pushed back another two weeks and so I had made the decision to remove the transmission myself and have it built at Liberty Gears in Detroit Michigan. I drove the distance to see how the warehouse operated, curated, and built many transmissions for sports racing teams across America and I was surprised. My little rx7 transmission is being rebuilt by the company building t-56 transmissions for competition. Anyways, the transmission was dropped off in March '22 but wasn't received back until October '22. The Transmission had undergo a new 5th gear synchronizer and hub replacement; Cryo treated, Heat treated, shot peened, polished all internals. In addition, i had the oem shaft removed and an aftermarket beefy shaft installed they had made. And to clean up things, the entire transmission was blasted for a new shine.
Last edited by Rocketeerbandit; 05-11-23 at 10:57 AM.
04-24-21, 08:02 AM
