sc_frontier

iTrader: (3)

Well, here is my fall/winter project. Car has been sitting in a barn for 5 years ever since it started smoking/low compression. Car is stock except full turbo back exhaust. This is my first rotary rebuild experience so I am taking my time and posting pics as I go. Car has 101,000 miles on, I think, the original engine.

sc_frontier

iTrader: (3)

First update: Found a radiator fan just laying on top of the radiator... Maybe that's why it was running hot that last summer in traffic. Also, check out this rag in the intercooler! Do you think this is an accident or an unconventional way to manage boost creep?! I would imagine it would reduce the efficiency of the intercooler at any rate. Just goes to show that you can't always trust the local rotary repair shop.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

fixd

sc_frontier

iTrader: (3)

lol, but the shop that "fixed" the high boost only works on rotary vehicles. I know the owner and he would never do this, but one of his workers might have cut some corners.

Fortune_Seven

iTrader: (24)

lol

iwant550s

looks like a nice little project there

sc_frontier

iTrader: (3)

I can't wait to get this thing going again. Tomorrow morning, more disassembly. Fortune Seven, where should I mount those gauges?

sc_frontier

iTrader: (3)

Update: Found it was easier to get the upper transmission bolts out if the upper intake manifold was removed.

sc_frontier

iTrader: (3)

Whoever said that it is easier to take the downpipe off after the engine is pulled is crazy. I had to fight this thing the whole time and couldn't get it off until the engine was completely out because it was jammed against the bell housing. But, alas, success

sc_frontier

iTrader: (3)

Thought I would save some money and build an engine holder bracket. Turns out I made it too thin and it took most of the day to get this thing right...(kinda) In hindsight I would have bought the Pineapple racing bracket for $60.

Fortune_Seven

iTrader: (24)

I'm a big fan of the area below the stereo if you aren't running a double din. Otherwise a center speaker pod on the dash is a good option. Not really a fan of the pillar pods as they deninish your lines of sight a bit more then other options.

sc_frontier

iTrader: (3)

Hmm interesting. I had been a fan of the A pillar mounts, but seeing the road is of most importance. Hopefully those suckers will come in this week. USPS always gets me worried

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

actually most common heads will fit just fine with 2 arms, pitch the other 2 and get 2 longer metric bolts to fit the front iron.

sc_frontier

iTrader: (3)

Hey not a bad idea. I figure once I get some heavy items off the engine it will be much easier to work with.

Fortune_Seven

iTrader: (24)

Had a tripple pod with 52mm gauges on my pillar in my previous FD RX7. Looks cool, but does restrict your vision. with 60mm would be that much worse. Mock them up and see what works best for you!

I hear you, have had a few problems over the years on this end. Should be fine though, if not they are insured . Let me know when you recieve them!

sc_frontier

iTrader: (3)

The saga continues First, my oil control rings fit very loosely in the rotors, is this normal (they fall out)? I am going to replace them, but am more curious if this is the source of smoke. Second, my oil pump chain looks loose. Will have to see what the service manual says about this thing. Finally a broken vacuum hose here, and a broken pressure regulator solenoid. The pressure regulator solenoid isn't hooked up to the pressure regulator, nor is there a nipple for a hookup...hmm

sc_frontier

iTrader: (3)

I bet I'm looking a the pulsation dampener... still, nothing hooked up the the pressure regulator solenoid on either side.

sc_frontier

iTrader: (3)

Engine parts ordered

sc_frontier

iTrader: (3)

Parts received, cleaning side plates and rotors. 2mm rx7 main bearings fit rx8 eccentric shaft perfectly. Reusing rotor bearings as they are in perfect condition.

galvatron10000

iTrader: (4)

when you rig your engine to lift it up, i suggest you use slings and shackle, not some bunjee cords and you should put a shackle on the hook or the eye of a sling on it. it will avoid the rope you use to slip because of the center of gravity of the engine not at the good spot and if that happen you might hurt yourself or the engine. its just a frendly tip when you gonna put back the engine in the car. except that good luck on your rebuild

iKingKing

are you planning on just rebuilding it or modding it a little for power?

sc_frontier

iTrader: (3)

Haven't updated in a while, and skipped some of the process, but this is the engine this morning. It has 2 piece apex seals, and new main bearings.

sc_frontier

iTrader: (3)

And this is it at the end of the day. Waiting on a silicon vacuum hose kit from www.hosetechniques.com So far so good, just cleaning everything up and taking my time. The car has an 11lb flywheel and act clutch. Not sure if I will mod much, considering spraying meth sometime in the future, but most likely I will just accept that it is not the fastest car on the road and enjoy it.

sc_frontier

iTrader: (3)

Silicon vacuum hose kit arrived from hose techniques. Came with a little piece of custom candy too!

sc_frontier

iTrader: (3)

Engine installed and runs well, but new oil pan leaks. Dropped the cross member, pulled the pan, and looks like the rtv grey sealant did not stick to pan very well, I assume because of the paint on the pan. Part of the problem could have been that I installed the engine mounts after the pan had already set for a day, and could have disrupted the sealant. I did not use the oil pan gasket. Hopefully, the car will be ready after this setback. Also installed new toe link bushings and shifter bushings. Car has two cycle oil in the tank since the oil injection pump lines are dry.