'93 Single turbo EFR Build Semi Peripheral
Hey guys! So I've had my '93 FD for about a year and a half now and I've been to hell and back with it. When I first purchased the car it was still stock twins but with a few bolt ons and an apexi power FC. The motor was blown so I went to a local shop here in northern virginia called First To Win Automotive...worst experience of my life. After having them rebuild it I came across a lot of problems due to them and then my engine blew up because of that. They all of a sudden went out of business at the same time...what a coincidence lol. So right after that I was recommended by a friend to my current shop here in Maryland, Unique Precision Rotary. Now with the help of a good friend Mike who owns the shop he's helping me build a monster.
Current upcoming build so far:
-Semi- Peripheral port
-Street port as well to help
- Borg Warner EFR 9180 custom turbo kit
-Duel 455 fuel pumps
-ID 1000cc & ID 2000
- New custom fuel kit from CJ motorsports
- Custom Fuel surge tank
-Adaptronic ECU
-HSD coilovers
-Big brake kit (haven't decided yet on which)
There should be a few more but I will continue to add to the list or update it as I remember or add things to it. Can't wait for this to be done! Hope you guys subscribe and follow me along this build.
Current upcoming build so far:
-Semi- Peripheral port
-Street port as well to help
- Borg Warner EFR 9180 custom turbo kit
-Duel 455 fuel pumps
-ID 1000cc & ID 2000
- New custom fuel kit from CJ motorsports
- Custom Fuel surge tank
-Adaptronic ECU
-HSD coilovers
-Big brake kit (haven't decided yet on which)
There should be a few more but I will continue to add to the list or update it as I remember or add things to it. Can't wait for this to be done! Hope you guys subscribe and follow me along this build.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Uniqu...834797?fref=ts
Check out and give the page a like on Facebook!
Check out and give the page a like on Facebook!
This should be one hell of a setup. If had to re-do a build I would def go semi-PP w/ 9180 IWG. Theoretically it should rip high end and spool ubber fast.
Looking forward to updates
Looking forward to updates
Will keep you updated!
Trending Topics
Well we're looking to run a 15lb, 30lb, and future 45lb setting on this car. Looking to do around 600whp on 15lb's maybe a little less. Yeah we will have enough for now but if we want to keep increasing the power the plan is to add more injectors and run 2000's all the way around.
We were thinking about using stoptech, we were also looking into wilwoods and other ones. Do you know who sells a good kit for stoptech? Thanks in advance. This is such an essential component to this build lol.
Just my opinion but Ive had wilwoods and driven a few other cars with wilwoods and never liked them. Stoptech, racing brake or AP racing is the way to go. Personally I like the sakebomb AP racing kit. I have the older M2 Ap racing bbk and its fantastic. No need for anything bigger than a 4 piston.
Just my opinion but Ive had wilwoods and driven a few other cars with wilwoods and never liked them. Stoptech, racing brake or AP racing is the way to go. Personally I like the sakebomb AP racing kit. I have the older M2 Ap racing bbk and its fantastic. No need for anything bigger than a 4 piston.
Thanks man I appreciate it! That's the plan, this is going to be a high HP setup we're just testing the waters hard since no one else before has ran this setup with a Semi PP and an EFR 9180 EWG. It's going to be a monster once completed in the next few weeks or so.
I'm definitely going to keep an eye on this build...
As far as the brakes go, it really depends on what kind of racing you're planning on doing. If you're road racing, how long are your sessions? If it's drag then stock brakes are best for weight savings. Same goes for the street. I had my thinking completely wrong on brake systems.
My customer, literally wrote more than half of the white pages (braking technical documents) on stoptechs website. He explained it very well. Check those out, they will teach you a lot.
You have to decide if you want to increase the rear brake diameter as well. Which then means a master cylinder upgrade. You would only do this if you are road racing for longer track sessions i.e. longer than 20 minutes. If a standard 20-25 min hpde session I would only do front bbk personally(still debatable). Why add the weight if you don't need to?
A lot of people claim they need to do a master cylinder upgrade when they switch to front bbk, this is to regain the pedal feel they had when stock with the stock modulation etc... this is because those bbk's piston sizes are sized incorrectly. It puts too much pressure on the front brakes which creates an on/off switch brake pedal and actually under brakes the rear which results in less overall braking.
As far as the brakes go, it really depends on what kind of racing you're planning on doing. If you're road racing, how long are your sessions? If it's drag then stock brakes are best for weight savings. Same goes for the street. I had my thinking completely wrong on brake systems.
My customer, literally wrote more than half of the white pages (braking technical documents) on stoptechs website. He explained it very well. Check those out, they will teach you a lot.
You have to decide if you want to increase the rear brake diameter as well. Which then means a master cylinder upgrade. You would only do this if you are road racing for longer track sessions i.e. longer than 20 minutes. If a standard 20-25 min hpde session I would only do front bbk personally(still debatable). Why add the weight if you don't need to?
A lot of people claim they need to do a master cylinder upgrade when they switch to front bbk, this is to regain the pedal feel they had when stock with the stock modulation etc... this is because those bbk's piston sizes are sized incorrectly. It puts too much pressure on the front brakes which creates an on/off switch brake pedal and actually under brakes the rear which results in less overall braking.
I'm definitely going to keep an eye on this build...
As far as the brakes go, it really depends on what kind of racing you're planning on doing. If you're road racing, how long are your sessions? If it's drag then stock brakes are best for weight savings. Same goes for the street. I had my thinking completely wrong on brake systems.
My customer, literally wrote more than half of the white pages (braking technical documents) on stoptechs website. He explained it very well. Check those out, they will teach you a lot.
You have to decide if you want to increase the rear brake diameter as well. Which then means a master cylinder upgrade. You would only do this if you are road racing for longer track sessions i.e. longer than 20 minutes. If a standard 20-25 min hpde session I would only do front bbk personally(still debatable). Why add the weight if you don't need to?
A lot of people claim they need to do a master cylinder upgrade when they switch to front bbk, this is to regain the pedal feel they had when stock with the stock modulation etc... this is because those bbk's piston sizes are sized incorrectly. It puts too much pressure on the front brakes which creates an on/off switch brake pedal and actually under brakes the rear which results in less overall braking.
As far as the brakes go, it really depends on what kind of racing you're planning on doing. If you're road racing, how long are your sessions? If it's drag then stock brakes are best for weight savings. Same goes for the street. I had my thinking completely wrong on brake systems.
My customer, literally wrote more than half of the white pages (braking technical documents) on stoptechs website. He explained it very well. Check those out, they will teach you a lot.
You have to decide if you want to increase the rear brake diameter as well. Which then means a master cylinder upgrade. You would only do this if you are road racing for longer track sessions i.e. longer than 20 minutes. If a standard 20-25 min hpde session I would only do front bbk personally(still debatable). Why add the weight if you don't need to?
A lot of people claim they need to do a master cylinder upgrade when they switch to front bbk, this is to regain the pedal feel they had when stock with the stock modulation etc... this is because those bbk's piston sizes are sized incorrectly. It puts too much pressure on the front brakes which creates an on/off switch brake pedal and actually under brakes the rear which results in less overall braking.
I'm definitely not an authority or anything. More just passing info along.
That would surprise me if a set of larger brakes is lighter than the smallish stock brakes, for any car really. Quality rotors can only be so light, I guess all the savings can be in the larger caliper???
Armen, I know you track quite a bit and you mention you like the AP setup. How are your brakes? pedal feel? stock master? rear setup?
That would surprise me if a set of larger brakes is lighter than the smallish stock brakes, for any car really. Quality rotors can only be so light, I guess all the savings can be in the larger caliper???
Armen, I know you track quite a bit and you mention you like the AP setup. How are your brakes? pedal feel? stock master? rear setup?
I am extremely happy with my BBK. I do have the 929 master cylinder, stainless lines, ATE blue fluid and have run a few pads like the Performance friction 01's and now HP+. Even with the HP+ pads, which dont last long with the OEM brakes on track, are pretty hard to fade w/ the AP;s.. MAYBE after 15mins on a certain track. The 01's will never fade with street tires imo. However, the 01's have too much friction and threw the bias off. My stopping distance is shorter with the HP+ fronts and Carbotech XP12's rear.( I run a more aggressive pad on my OEM rear) Brake feel is perfect.. anyone how drives the car notices the braking. The FD abs is not the best either, but for me its pretty easy to modulate. Next I may try EBC yellows or Blues.
Hope the OP doesnt mind me throwing this thread off track!
Hope the OP doesnt mind me throwing this thread off track!
I'm definitely going to keep an eye on this build...
As far as the brakes go, it really depends on what kind of racing you're planning on doing. If you're road racing, how long are your sessions? If it's drag then stock brakes are best for weight savings. Same goes for the street. I had my thinking completely wrong on brake systems.
My customer, literally wrote more than half of the white pages (braking technical documents) on stoptechs website. He explained it very well. Check those out, they will teach you a lot.
You have to decide if you want to increase the rear brake diameter as well. Which then means a master cylinder upgrade. You would only do this if you are road racing for longer track sessions i.e. longer than 20 minutes. If a standard 20-25 min hpde session I would only do front bbk personally(still debatable). Why add the weight if you don't need to?
A lot of people claim they need to do a master cylinder upgrade when they switch to front bbk, this is to regain the pedal feel they had when stock with the stock modulation etc... this is because those bbk's piston sizes are sized incorrectly. It puts too much pressure on the front brakes which creates an on/off switch brake pedal and actually under brakes the rear which results in less overall braking.
As far as the brakes go, it really depends on what kind of racing you're planning on doing. If you're road racing, how long are your sessions? If it's drag then stock brakes are best for weight savings. Same goes for the street. I had my thinking completely wrong on brake systems.
My customer, literally wrote more than half of the white pages (braking technical documents) on stoptechs website. He explained it very well. Check those out, they will teach you a lot.
You have to decide if you want to increase the rear brake diameter as well. Which then means a master cylinder upgrade. You would only do this if you are road racing for longer track sessions i.e. longer than 20 minutes. If a standard 20-25 min hpde session I would only do front bbk personally(still debatable). Why add the weight if you don't need to?
A lot of people claim they need to do a master cylinder upgrade when they switch to front bbk, this is to regain the pedal feel they had when stock with the stock modulation etc... this is because those bbk's piston sizes are sized incorrectly. It puts too much pressure on the front brakes which creates an on/off switch brake pedal and actually under brakes the rear which results in less overall braking.
I am extremely happy with my BBK. I do have the 929 master cylinder, stainless lines, ATE blue fluid and have run a few pads like the Performance friction 01's and now HP+. Even with the HP+ pads, which dont last long with the OEM brakes on track, are pretty hard to fade w/ the AP;s.. MAYBE after 15mins on a certain track. The 01's will never fade with street tires imo. However, the 01's have too much friction and threw the bias off. My stopping distance is shorter with the HP+ fronts and Carbotech XP12's rear.( I run a more aggressive pad on my OEM rear) Brake feel is perfect.. anyone how drives the car notices the braking. The FD abs is not the best either, but for me its pretty easy to modulate. Next I may try EBC yellows or Blues.
Hope the OP doesnt mind me throwing this thread off track!
Hope the OP doesnt mind me throwing this thread off track!
If you want to run larger rears you'll have to upgrade your master cylinder as well. Not a big deal at around 200 bucks for the parts. Then you could run the ap kit no problem. If you want stoptech fronts with larger rear brakes you'll have to talk to them about resizing your pistons larger in the caliper.
If you run stock rears, then the stoptech kit will not require the master cylinder swap.
If you run stock rears, then the stoptech kit will not require the master cylinder swap.
If you want to run larger rears you'll have to upgrade your master cylinder as well. Not a big deal at around 200 bucks for the parts. Then you could run the ap kit no problem. If you want stoptech fronts with larger rear brakes you'll have to talk to them about resizing your pistons larger in the caliper.
If you run stock rears, then the stoptech kit will not require the master cylinder swap.
If you run stock rears, then the stoptech kit will not require the master cylinder swap.
Here's just a few pictures of the engine tear down and my practically brand new (under 1k miles) BNR stage 3 twin turbos. They're going up for sale btw if anyone is interested!
Keeping you guys posted throughout the whole process. More pictures hopefully later today.
You will want the 1.45 turbine housing for this 9180!







