93' black touring
 

Hi all, starting a new build thread. This time keeping it mostly stock, for now at least. It's going to be a slow build, as I have a few other projects under way.

I have a 94 R2 that is heavily modified, so looking to keep this more tame. But would like to hear your advise before I get started on it.

It's stock, 93 touring, black on tan, automatic, clean title, 80k miles. It has a blown motor. I have another that I'll drop in, but keeping it auto for now.

Let me know what option you'd go with:
1. Keep completely stock
2. Simplified sequential, but otherwise stock
3. Simplified sequential, plus basic mods of SMIC, fuel system, PFC or adaptronic plug and play, AEM smart coils.

I really don't want to go too crazy, but not sure if it makes sense to stay completely stock. I have most of the parts for the basic upgrades. Wouldn't mind hearing a few opinions before making a decision.

More pics to come, but here is a pic from when I picked it up.

Nice! Stinks that it's an auto. But you can't beat the mileage.

The ECU for the auto cars has a lot of control on the auto, it does the hold feature and all that jazz. If you want to do a PFC with the auto Banzai Racing has an adapter that lets the stock ECU plug in with the PFC so it can control the auto and the PFC controls the engine.

Dale

Thanks Dale, I was starting to lean toward adaptronic PnP. Any chance anyone know if that works with an Auto or know how to make it work?

Also, now that I've done a compression test and know the front rotor has 0psi on all three corners (RCT 5 doesn't even register on the front rotor and no audible pulses), I need to get the twins off to see if they ate a seal. If they are damaged, this is going to take a turn toward single turbo real fast.

Here is our Banzai Racing automatic project car making 346rwhp http://www.banzai-racing.com/br_projects_auto_pg3.htm

We designed to Auto adapter so that any PNP manual trans ECU can be installed.

Awesome. Was just about to email you haha. Wasn't sure if it worked for the different types of ecu's, but I guess if they are plug n play, pin outs must be the same for a patch harness.

Well. No longer keeping it stock. I've had a D code short block for a number of years, the first of the peripherals arrived.

EFR 9280 IWG
ProJay 20B Bully intake kit (new billet version)
Xcessive mount kit will be used, with their "b" version oil pan to work with the REW front cover.

And yes, I know the turbo is small, but I don't need more than 700whp. And yes, I know the intake is overkill, but it's beautiful and I also don't have the stock LIM, UIM, or throttle body. So when you factor in the avoidance of buying used stock items and an Xcessive LIM/fuel rail combo, the price actually isn't bad.

And I'm keeping it Auto!!! until it breaks haha

Edit: the intake is for a PPort, I was too excited to not take pictures, it will be returned for a non-PPort version. Jay at ProJay is great to deal with.

Rad parts. Those style intakes are notorious for difficult drive-ability. The extra rotor might help. Planning any block work to handle the power?

Yeah. The throttle body is huge, but I've been reading up on how monsterbox is dialing in his driveability. I have the haltech elite 2500 too. I'm ok if it's not perfect (I'm used to the SMG transmission clunking around getting confused in stop and go traffic in my M5, which is a different drivability issue I've gotten used to)

The bock is streetported, it's a D code so it can handle the 600-700 I'm after without a lot of work. I will go with the apex seals that I see IRP suggesting (can't remember the name right now).

Nice. Looking g forward to updates.

Hopefully you break it in short order so you have an excuse to put a proper transmission in it.

So I've been spending most of my time remodeling a house, but collecting parts for the FDs at the same time.

CD009 6 speed adapter just came in from Careless. I am absolutely shocked. Now I haven't installed it, but the attention to detail and communication and even the packaging is something I've never seen before in buying low volume custom parts over 15 years of building cars. Simply fantastic.

Would love to see more pictures of the car!! Are you planning a 6spd manual trans conversion?

Started taking it apart. Probably not a good idea to have a cutout off the downpipe aimed at the oil pan and motor mounts...

Also got the twins out. They are converted to non sequential. :(

So I spent a little time dissecting the twins. Also a size comparison to a EFR 9280 for fun.

9280 vs stock HT12 twins

In the post above, you saw dissected stock sequential twins. I plan to use sequential EFR turbos..... I cut the flanges off the turbo housings (the part that bolts to the exhaust manifold), leaving the prespool and turbo control in place. I have 2 EFR 6758 turbos with internally gated VBand inlet housings. I'm going to weld small schedule 10 stainless pipes to the old twin turbo housing flanges, and weld on the V band flanges to those pipes (2 3/8 outside diameter). These short pipes will be made from concentric reducers, and the small end will need to be hammered into shape to match the old turbine flanges, as they are more of a rectangle and only 1.5" or so.

There are issues with welding to cast, but the stock twins aren't made out of junk cast iron, they have high nickel content and as long as cooled down in a controlled manner, should take to being welded.

It seems like I can make it fit, I'll then modify the stock Y pipe to the 2 EFRs so I can keep the control valves in place. If this were to actually work, it will be much better flow than the stock twins ever could as the exhaust outlets are no longer pushed through such a tight area and are no longer opposing each other prior to the downpipe. Plus, 2 internal waste gates built in will also help in controlling boost a lot better than the stock design at high pressures.

So, sequential EFR turbos, about 90lbs of max flow, ball bearing, water cooled, better wastegate management, better flow through manifold without opposing exhaust outlets. Better spool than stock twins and about 550-600whp capacity (although I will likely never try that, even if I eventually get it to work). You could also think about it similar to a EFR9180 but with better spool than stock twins.

Who knows if I'll ever finish it, but thought it would be fun to try. Will steal the motor out of my twincharged car, and use the 20b with 9280 for that instead. Its more heavily modified than this one, so this is a better candidate to keep all the original twin turbo control/wiring on.


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Twin EFR 6758 with V-band housings, internal wastegates

Sweet. The internal gates solve a lot of packaging problems for twin singles. If you get them to work sequentially that will be dope

Subscribed!!! I have to see how this goes. Sounds badass and I hope you can make it work.

Whoa super interesting. Looking forward to seeing this.

I'm hoping I can make some progress, there sure isn't much room in there, especially to manage 2 down pipes while still managing to get the turbine housings to attach to the stock locations in order to keep the sequential system flappers working. A long way to go between propping them up with 2x4's and being attached properly haha.

I'm going to need to get an Xcessive LIM to give more clearance near the rear rotor, the secondary turbo needs to go as far back and up as possible (while still leaving room for its downpipe) in order to provide clearance for the housing and downpipe of the primary turbo. I've ordered some pipe and transitions, will get the secondary tacked up and then work around it with the primary turbo.

A little detail on the turbo selection:
Sizing is in mm

My goal was to keep the exhaust turbine small to keep spool, still bigger than stock but think it will still spool as fast if not faster than stock due to ball bearing, lighter weight, and better aero of EFR. And then go to substantially bigger compressor to get more flow, hopefully without loosing spool. I tried to triangulate here, seeing that the SP twins have a 68mm exducer and I'm guessing it didn't kill spool, and also seeing charts of the 7670 single turbo builds that still enable really good spool. Based on that, I felt the EFR6258 was too small (and has the same packaging as the 6758 anyway), and the next size up (EFR7163) would be too much of a risk to spool, even though it had a higher top end capability, as it would go underutilized because I don't plan to push it passed 500-600whp even if I am successful.

EFR was selected due to sizes available, internal wastegate and vband housing availability, ball bearing, and light weight aero. I also like the integrated BOV.

Compressors:
Stock: 57x41.6
Bathurst sp: 68x47 (from a thread I won't mention here, only including as I used the compressor size of 68 as a factor to help understand whether my selection of the 6758 was out of wack or not)
EFR6258: 62x49
EFR 6758: 67x54 (18%x30% bigger than stock)

Turbine
Stock: 50x45
Bathurst sp: 56x51
EFR6258: 58x51
EFR6758: 58x51 (16%x13% bigger than stock)

Did you change plans and decide to not swap to the 20B or are your more recent posts for a different car?

Changed plans. This car has a blown engine (bought it that way, 0 compression on rear rotor). And it's an automatic.

It's mostly stock compared to my widebody car, so I felt like the widebody car should get the 20b. I was just going to take the good Engine out of the wide body car and put it in, but you can't bolt up a manual transmission rear iron engine to an auto tranny.

So I'm taking the whole drive train from the widebody car (manual) and putting it in this car with the sequential twins (if I can't make the EFRs work I will sell the turbos and buy the BNR upgrades). The widebody car will then get the 20b and CD009 transmission (which is why I bought Careless' adapter kit). It already has all the upgrades needed to handle 20b (cooling, fuel, ignition +2 more couls, Ecu, etc). When I made the wiring harness, I included extra fuel injector and coil wires to accommodate up to a 4 rotor, so there should be very little wiring needed.

So I made a little progress in terms of getting them in place and making sure there is actually space. It's definitely a tight fight. The reducer came in, the 1" side is circular and is too small for the rectangular opening of the turbine housing flange, but whats nice is that when you cut the reducer at an angle, its becomes more of an oval, which is actually a pretty good fit. I need to heat it up and squeeze it with the vise to make it a bit better, but it's cut. Now I just need some 2" tube with about a 45 degree angle to go between the 2" side of the reducer and the vband for the turbo. With the angle like that, it seems to give enough clearance for the 3" downpipe coming off the front turbo. It's a bit higher than I would like, and its close to the firewall so I'm going to need to run a 90 degree turn at the start of the downpipe, but still better than how the stock turbos flow. The front turbo with luck out with a straight downpipe until they merge together.

The front turbo just doesn't have enough room to mount to the flange of the old primary turbine, the angle just puts it up too high. So I'm going to have to weld straight to the manifold. This is actually good as it will place it very low (I think still enough room for the oil to drain into the front cover), and gives enough clearance for the downpipe underneath the secondary turbo. It also gets rid of the need for one of the gaskets between the manifold and the old primary turbine flange. Just need a pie cut of 2" schedule 10 SS, as it needs to be thick enough to weld to the manifold. The only parts I'm a little concerned about fitting are the wastegate actuators, they aren't that big, but there isn't much room, I'm going to order the 14psi turbosmart actuators made for the EFR series.

So I need to get a bit of pipe and then i can tack a few pieces together.


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SS304 Schedule 10 reducer, 2"x1". Cut this at an angle to get the correct alignment at the secondary turbo flange and also get an oval shape on the small end to match the size of the flange.
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before cutting the reducer, the 2" end is perfect, just need to match the small end to the old turbine housing cutoff
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just trying to get the secondary turbo to stay about where I want it so i can see how everything lines up
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I was relieved once I got the secondary turbo here, enough room for a downpipe from the primary turbo to pass to the left. You can also see the cut reducer in this picture, a small 45 or 60 degree 2" pipe will go between the reducer and the vband flange on the turbo.
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There is enough room for when I actually weld it it won't hit the lower intake manifold, its just touching because I have it clamped. I'm also hopeful there will be enough room from the primary turbo that I'll be able to rotate the compressor cover clockwise and face it down, getting the BOV away from the primary turbine housing and also a better shot to the Y pipe
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Here you can see the ample room for the primary turbo downpipe, but the flange from the primary turbine just doesn't give enough room to mount the turbo to it, by the time I adapt it to 2", it sits too high, I can't really change the angle either as then I can't access the bolts to mount it to the manifold
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Primary Turbo: so I'll port out the manifold to be more circular and closer to 2" before welding. It's just high enough to allow for turbo oil drain. and the angle will help with downpipe clearance
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Both pretty much in place, again, I'll rotate the compressor covers once I have it tacked up, so that will make more sense later.
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Better view of the downpipe clearance
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From the side to show how far they stick out

Some overdue updates. I’ve been remodeling a house, so cars were on the back burner.

1. black auto FD is completely disassembled, body work done and paint done. It is now Petrolix Blue, similar to montego blue but less green. I took the motor out of the twincharged car, studded and ported by pineapple racing around 2008 (I bought it in 2009 from a guy in georgia that never used it when I originally bought the car with a bad oil control ring). Was cool to be able to drive to pineapple sewing as I bought it on the east coast so long ago. Was also fun to see the pineapple shop and meet Rob. This motor is getting refreshed and go into the freshly painted car.

2. twincharged car that I stole the motor from is now no longer twincharged. It will be getting the 20B with DCT 7 speed transmission. This car is way more aggressive than the other, so it deserves the 20B :)

3. Another FD has joined the stable. It hasn’t run since 2007 and has a sieved motor. But it is stock, silver with red interior. And I got it from RAD Dan if anyone is familiar with professional drifting, you’ll know he’s a Supra guy. This was a surprise buy. I was watching his YouTube video one night and it was title ultimate barn finds, and the outlines of the cars looked a bit like FDs. So I watch it, and notice he’s driving through my town to get on a ferry, and formula drift was in town that weekend. Turns out he was getting 2 FDs and a Supra that had been hidden away for 10 years after his friend had passed away. He mentioned he was keeping the Supra and selling the FDs, before the video was over I was emailing him, and he called me right away. A couple days later I picked it up at the race track before formula drift qualifying started. Going to drop in a new engine, replace all hoses, new clutch, change brakes, and leave it as is. It’s not perfect, but doesn’t need to become a big project until the others are done.
Video explaining it: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=A9wdgO1dzkg


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Bringing home from bodyshop
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Some sun on the pearl
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Next to the new silver one, with the twincharged car hiding in the garage

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Twincharged Pinapple engine coming out

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SSM
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Always wanted the red interior and I like the 93 in this case because red wraps around to the bins and rear panels and has black carpet. Unlike the 94/95
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Some barn finds for sale before the race weekend

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Final pic of the twincharged FD actually being twincharged.

And here is the last time the twincharged car will run before becoming 20b single turbo.

Very nice pick up on the SSM/red touring - congrats! And great to see your immaculate BB on the enkeis, still looking great after all these years

Best of luck on balancing out these builds - looking forward to them all coming together

Not much work to update, but some new parts in. The rest of the PartsShopMax front suspension came in (lower control arms were on back order). These (plus the uppers and knuckles) are amazing. Very adjustable, car is not for drifting, but with the widebody, this allows me to push the pivot point of the front wheels out up to 3 inches on each side, so I avoid weird wheel sweeping when turning).

also got louvers!


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You’re ahead of the curve!

Squeezed in about an hour of work today.

Engine installation tool added (way easier than chains since I rarely have an extra hand in the garage. 20b with Xcessive mounts mocked up and H7 DCT adapter and BMW M4 DCT 7 speed bolted on.

next is to mock up in the engine bay and figure out how to avoid moving the steering rack.


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Very Nice!
That’s not Neal’s DTC kit correct? Which one is it?
Thx

It's Neal's. Top quality

What great builds!!

where can I find more info on the engine install adapter? Also usually don’t have a helping hand so this may prove very useful!

It’s from Macs Tie Downs. Used it for the first time today. I love it, although the weight of the DCT puts it at the limit of getting it completely horizontal. If I move the attach point back any further to balance it then I can’t clear the fire wall with the crane. If it was a stock 5 speed then it’s be no problem. But it worked great overall. Much better than the normal screw balancer with chains.

test fitting the 20B for the first time today. Trying to avoid moving the steering rack.


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Very exciting!

new part for the blue 2 rotor car. But not sure if a knock off. The stamp for the serial number on the mazdaspeed plate is unreadable. Bar seems legit, but name plate serial number seems weird.


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Engine and trans are in for test fit. I have a ronin subframe on the way to help lower the steering rack and make room for an oil pan. Everything clears the hood, an extra inch drop from the sub frame and I can adjust the engine mounts to fifth the sub frame.


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About 3/4” clearance, need another inch for the oil pan
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Motor is about 1” forward from stock. It will go back a bit once the subframe is in and I can lower it down a bit
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Thin oil pan solution to clear the steering rack without dropping it much.
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Ronin sub frame. Once I have it in, I plan to make a rear cross bar that bolts to it and has the motor mounting points.
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A really nice piece.
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ProJay bully and EFR 9280 just clear the hood.
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DBW throttle body on the ProJay manifold.
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Also got the bumper finished for the blue car. Just mocked up.


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Trans and motor are back out while we wait for the Ronin sub frame. It’s been a long time since I took the subframe out. Forgot how much of a pain it is when trying to leave the control arms in place.


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Ronin subframe came in. It’s a really nice piece. I installed it and mocked up the motor and trans again. Much more room this time around. Still not final until I decide on the oil pan though. But now there is a little over an inch clearance with the steering rack, and there are 2 aftermarket oil pans that I’m considering. JDL manufacturing and Spyder’s design with Pineapple racing.


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Stock
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Ronin (builder kit without the LS mounts welded on)
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Stock rough measurement from bottom of steering rack to bottom of frame rail
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Gained about 1.5” with the Ronin subframe (lowers the rack). Also comes with a bump steer correction kit.
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Installed. Room for activity. Plan to make a rear crossbar that bolts to the bottom of the subframe, will be where the motor mounts to.
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Beautiful subframe. Nicely made. Every weld looks great.
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Going in
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This is with the trans bolted to the car and engine lifted up as high as it will go.
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More room for oil pan
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The two pans I’m looking at should fit, I can gain another .5” without much trouble if I need to though (add spacer to trans mount to lower it down so the front of the engine can lift up more, and the subframe has flat mounting points for the steering rack, where OEM has space for the steering rack bushing to sink in a bit, I could shave a little off the bushing to seat it flush and gain 3/16”)

A few new parts came in. And did some cardboard mock-ups while I wait for the real ones to arrive.


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Black carpet for the blue car. Getting rid of the tan.
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Mocking up FMIC. Will need to trim the bumper a bit.
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Mocking up chase bays radiator

So I have some nice new harnesses (engine and charge/battery). But the front harness that wraps around the front of the car with the relay box is no longer available. While these hold up better over time than the engine harness (not as crispy), I’d like to swap in new connectors.

does anyone know if you can order the corresponding connectors to these big gray ones on the charging harness?


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Dry sump it!

Haha. I did think about it. But MFR dry dump covers are impossible to find. And the billet ones be too pricey.

it’s just a drip in the 55 gallon drum at this point …
.

just do it, you know you want to … :suspect:

20B dry-sump DCT, how cool is that; like a super frosty beer on the hottest day of a summer cool 😎
.

Haha. I wish. I'm not willing to go with an external belt driven oil pump though. MFR covers are not available. And if I go with a billet cover, it'll be like $8k by the time I factor in the tank.

The other issue is this is a street car with interior and im struggling to think of a good spot for a 2 gallon oil tank.

I also heard the original MFR covers don't flow enough for a 20b and you need to be sure to get a newer version. But I have no idea how to tell them apart even if I could find one. I remember the days when they would sell for $2k. That's long gone.

A few updates while we figure out the oil pan situation.

got the chase bays radiator in. Fits great and clears up a lot of room in the engine bay. Note, you have to remove 2 small AC brackets from the frame rail by drilling out the spot welds, and if you still have the stock from wire harness with the relay box, you need to move it. You can’t just drop this into a stock FD without these changes. They run this on their drift cars, dual pass, 3” thick. Should be good as long as I have proper ducting and fans.

Got the intercooler core in, garret, 26.8”x10.5”x4” thick, rated for 900+hp. Wanted to find one with end tanks already welded, but there is nothing that would fit with the inlet and outlet going between the radiator (27.5” wide) and the oil coolers. About 5” clearance between side of Setrab 25 row and edge of radiator (where the stock tow hooks are).

also, going with the RX8 A/C condensor with built in dryer. And also adapter brackets to bolt up a new RX8 compressor on an FD front cover. was worried about the condensor fitment, but it’s actually perfect with this radiator, still need to make mounts for it though.


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Radiator in place
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...368807b79.jpeg
Rear of radiator. Will be adding dual 12” brushless fans, which are 2.5” thick
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4f06833dc.jpeg
Bracket removed
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3727a646b.jpeg
Clearance between radiator and oil cooler where the intercooler inlet needs to go. Will need to get aftermarket tow hooks that don’t hang so low and are bent to go through the oil cooler opening.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8bff4bf0c.jpeg
Distance between front cover and radiator.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...925f77a14.jpeg
Bumper mocked up. Vent panel to be molded in to give more air due to the FMIC/AC condensor/radiator stack. All will be well ducted and then high flow brushless fans.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...381af4838.jpeg
Rx8 condensor mocked up. This is mocked up the wrong way (bottom is actually the top). Once flipped over, inlet and outlet are accessible. Got lucky there. About quarter inch of clearance to the radiator, which will have weatherstripping/foam to seek the air flow.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...aa4168dc7.jpeg
Bottom view of A/C fitment with radiator. Need to remove the stock brackets and mount it.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e429e53a0.jpeg
Garret intercooler core. Just sitting on a box. It will be raised up and mounted to the front cross member, will have cast end tanks, with back door inlet and outlet that go under the frame rails just to the sides of the radiator and then curve into the engine bay.

Switched gears a bit. Pineapple racing has my engine ready, so have been spending a little time on the SSM getting the old seized motor ready to come out.


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b7f90e30f.jpeg
Had been sitting since 2007 when I picked it up. Mostly in a garage. had a blown engine, not sure from what. Fully sieved though.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...83aeb575b.jpeg
A real rats nest
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6b55fff13.jpeg
Mummy
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5c31722f5.jpeg
Appears to be the only mod on the car. It did come with a never used koyo radiator sitting in the hatch which will come in handy.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...df9ad9a2e.jpeg
Halfway ready to come out.