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Damn... that poor mouse.
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Originally Posted by TwinCharged RX7
(Post 12492412)
Not much work to update, but some new parts in. The rest of the PartsShopMax front suspension came in (lower control arms were on back order). These (plus the uppers and knuckles) are amazing. Very adjustable, car is not for drifting, but with the widebody, this allows me to push the pivot point of the front wheels out up to 3 inches on each side, so I avoid weird wheel sweeping when turning).
also got louvers! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...316786793.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...763d8d2b8.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a98f11eaa.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0fd32cc7c.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...30e4f7586.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...385fd5c22.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d880dbcb8.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bb55d980d.jpeg did you get to mount these controls arms by any chance? I have been considering upgrading the stock ones for a while. I have raised the car just a little so i have maxed out the camber settings on the OEM and i am not where i was when the car was lowered Thanks it looks like its going to be a sick build. the DCT swap seems like a great option !!! |
Haven’t mounted the control arms yet. Waiting to do that last.
have been making progress on the other cars. Motor is ready to come out of the silver car. and picked up the new motor for the blue car today (new from Mazda but taken apart for cooling and oil mods, big street port, and dowels. Also picked up the rebuilt motor (housings from old twincharged motor and irons from the blue car’s old engine) for the silver car. Streetported with new bearings. Time to start assembly. was raining, will get some real pics later. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a5dad98f8.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...04b3bdb20.jpeg |
Originally Posted by twinturborx7pete
(Post 12507251)
Damn... that poor mouse.
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True. I guess not a bad place to go vs being eaten by a cat.
here are the motors unwrapped. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7dbe458bf.jpeg New engine for blue car. Built for 500whp https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...083febab3.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2f74d67fa.jpeg Rebuilt engine for silver car. Likely will not be pushed past 400whp. Good street port and fresh bearings and seals. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5fb3ef6db.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5d83db9dc.jpeg 20b is next on the list for a refresh. |
Got the engine out of the SSM. Completely seized. Was going to leave the trans in, but the clutch for was stuck so I couldn’t unclip the throw out release collar. Once I got it out of the car, realized quickly what the issue was. Slave cylinder was seized in the fully pressed position, I was wondering why the clutch pedal would just go to the floor. Unscrewed the salved cylinder and clutch fork went back and was super easy to unclip the collar.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...48b5bc884.jpeg Suedes slave cylinder removed. When I undid the bolts that hold it in it popped right out. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1f89bdd1a.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8792b049a.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3dcd4a3b9.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f1805eabe.jpeg Anyone know what brand this is? No markings on it. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8477ab9f0.jpeg |
That’s a B&M copy, a lot of places sell them.
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Cool. Thank you. For sale if anyone wants it haha.
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Finished cleaning the engine bay on the SSM. I was not planning to restore this car, I just wanted to put a new engine in and drive it. But I just can’t bring myself to put it back in this condition, so off to the body shop for an engine bay paint it is. I try to strip as much as I can and get it as clean as possible to cut down on body shop labor, it adds up fast.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0dbb1932a.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4e9df8d37.jpeg Before cleaning and degreasing https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...aa8f86f92.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...db52a885f.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...278b6d44c.jpeg Quite a few spots of surface rust. Luckily, the underside of the car is covered in oil so it’s rust free. Sometimes a little oil leak is a good thing haha. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...87c4f3753.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...462c67e8b.jpeg After cleaning and degreasing. Much better. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...97eefc22b.jpeg Darn battery. It looks worse than it is. Still very solid. Not rotten. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5128b3b0b.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...607c4776d.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b9934e0fc.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f39edbd52.jpeg |
Cleaned up pretty good. I am sure it will look much better after some fresh paint.
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Yeah, came out better than expected. need to go look more closely though, Even after cleaning it doesn't look quite like SSM. Very much faded out. Is this common on all SSM engine bays?
Can't wait to get it painted and start bolting stuff together. Trying to make this a "bolt on" car. Bolt on stuff has come a long way. I'll need to make fuel lines for the CJM fuel rails with ID injectors, but hopefully that's it for the 450whp target. Have a RaceOnly bolt on fuel pump kit (I will run a new power wire though), IRP plug n play smart coils, haltech elite 2500 plug n play, koyo rad, ACT clutch, IRP oil pan brace, new OEM engine and charge harnesses, FEED big bore clutch master cylinder, upgraded throw out bearing, sending front and rear brakes out to be refurbished and colored red, IRP water pump, Sakebomb braided brake lines. Goldwin racing short shifter. RaceOnly airpump delete water pump pulley and AST replacement. Ball bearing twin turbos.... |
Just looked at a few other engine bay pictures. Here is another nice build (estevan running 11’s). Notice how the engine bay paint is different than the fender, same as mine.
is this just fading over time due to engine bay heat, or was the finish on the engine bay different than the final coats on the exterior? https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...aebd053b2.jpeg |
Yes SSM bays were not finished like the exterior paint. I don’t believe they used a clear when painting the bay.
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Originally Posted by FD3S_ Parts
Yes SSM bays were not finished like the exterior paint. I don’t believe they used a clear when painting the bay.
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Will look so much better!
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A couple small updates.
SSM engine bay is painted and ready for reassembly. All the brackets and pipes are corroded/surface rust, so will be a lot of satin black powder coating happing before it goes back together. also picked up a Knightsports twin tube downpipe and Knightsports U SMIC. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f65e36265.jpeg Before paint https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6f9b5f525.jpeg Note to self. Don’t forget to remove little rubber hood bumpers. Painters thought I left it on purpose. Not a big deal, but would have taken 2 seconds to remove. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2885629e2.jpeg After sanding and a few coats of primer and paint https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a1fce694b.jpeg All done https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6741dea5b.jpeg Knightsports U type SMIC https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f18988b6c.jpeg Brake booster looking tired. |
That engine bay looks great! Hopefully mine will look that nice :icon_tup:
Steve |
About to install the engine and trans in the blue car.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...91655324e.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6ff201493.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...59085a34c.jpeg |
Ready to go. Hopefully will be in car tomorrow.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4f66ad236.jpeg F82 M4 trans with 26k miles. Hotel 7 adapter kit. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e4410def9.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...523072a33.jpeg Rear trans mount with bushings installed https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...dad42a773.jpeg Best tool ever “Pivot” for anyone that installs engines without any helpers around. I like it a lot better than the normal balance bar type. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1da6af5f1.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...073e55509.jpeg I cut out the brackets for the radiator cross bar to free up room for the turbos. So now have to prime and paint to keep it from rusting, luckily once the engine is in with all accessories it won’t be noticeable. |
Drilled out the spotwelds on the intercooler crossbar brackets to make more room for turbos and AC bracket to make room for chase bays radiator. Ground down the left overs, cleaned, primed. Will need to order a can of blue to match the paint later though.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c2acf18dc.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6a011498a.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cd0cd04c9.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3d577f0b4.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6d15ae2ef.jpeg |
Took a little longer than planned. But overall went well.
Tapped the oil feed and return for the trans cooler. The aftermarket ones typically blow out the o-rings. So tapped for 1/4” NPT and have a 1/4” NPT to -8AN adapter on the way. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...64659d106.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bea91a168.jpeg Brass fitting only in there to check the threads. Onto the engine install. It fits, but it’s a little too close for comfort inside the tunnel. So will take it out next weekend and shave the motor mounts 1/4”. Will also install the oil fittings in the trans when it’s back out to make it easier. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e25e41865.jpeg The PIVOT balancer is doesn’t work as well with such a heavy trans and light engine, and I can’t move the mounting position further to the rear or else it will hit the fire wall during installation . Was still helpful but ended up using a jack under the car to level out the trans when I needed it. Was a great angle for getting through the engine bay though. pineapple racing oil pan looking beefy. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4286de637.jpeg Put the front wheels on fillets. 1), if the front isn’t lifted, when the car has the engine weight in it, the bottom of the subframe traps the engine hoist. 2) makes it easy to move the car under the hoist. Instead of pushing the hoist and having the engine start swinging, I just tug on the car to move it under the engine. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3cb3f4c1e.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7b2c4bac9.jpeg It’s in. |
nice, bought one of those pivot tools too, but haven’t used it yet
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Yeah. I need to make a better adapter to mount it to the engine. Piecing together nuts and bolts and angle each time is annoying. Just need to make something solid that bolts on nicely.
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Mocking up some fresh parts. Dug out my old coolant housing from the twincharged car. Needs to be cleaned up but looks good with the ewp blockoff and RaceOnly AST delete.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3bef0a305.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...51ac9f72a.jpeg |
Full Race electronic internal wastegate actuator kit came in today. It’s a really nice little kit with a sturdy bracket and linkage to sit tight to the housing without binding. Uses the Honda civic FK8 actuator. It doesn’t take up as much space as I was fearing.
mocked it up again now that the actuator and brackets are here I can really figure out turbo placement and clearance. A lot of puzzle pieces to figure out how to fit together (oil drains, coolant lines, manifold piping, etc). Everything is a little further forward than I would prefer, but that’s because the upper turbo doesn’t have space to go further back without the actuator hitting the strut tower, and the front turbo has to sit far forward if the turbine inlet faces down in order to give room for the rear turbo’s oil drain. But I think it will work out. Now to cut some pipe and tack things up. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...27e00da22.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b436af6cf.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8eb3d4d1d.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1cf3db64b.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...07e88b259.jpeg |
never noticed before; did you cut away an MT rear iron rather than use an AT rear iron for the 13B DCT swap?
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Yeah, good old grinder and flap wheel. Kicking myself a bit because the engine that came out of this car was an auto, plan was to do a manual swap at the time. So when I sent the motor for this car and the silver car to get rebuilt, the engine for the silver car was not usable, so I got a new engine (MT rear iron). So because it was brand new, planned to do more work for higher power on it, vs the rebuild engine for the silver car which only got a still mild street port. So now the silver manual transmission car is getting the re-used auto rear iron, and the DCT car that was going to get a manual swap at the time gets a manual rear iron.
Not a big deal though, was easy to cut and trim. "Should" still be strong enough. There's at least 1 other manual rear iron cut DCT with high horsepower running for over a year now with no issues. I'm fairly certain I will blow the engine getting the twin turbo setup working before I break the rear iron hahaha. |
Here’s a good reason why you shouldn’t let a car sit for 10 years with water in it. This came out of the silver 93’. The block was frozen and doesn’t turn over, so probably full of rust as well. Going to hook a hose up to the heater core and see what comes out.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...37894699a.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5bfd9018c.jpeg |
This is also why I recommend changing coolant once a year. Even regular coolant will corrode over time.
Dale |
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truth!
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Originally Posted by TwinCharged RX7
(Post 12557457)
Tomsn16 to the rescue. Best seller ever.
Yeah man..... Hes an awesome seller! |
BNR stage 2 upgrade just got here for the SSM car, including brand new turbine housings. I’ve never had a twin turbo FD, will be fun to have a nice sequential set up. Now to get on with putting this back together.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bd55f6278.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0a894c34a.jpeg |
I'm so excited to see how these new stage 2's do.
Can't wait to see !!!!!!! I also have the xcessive LIM so this should be a fair comparison to the stage 1's. You will have to bend the engine side manifold heat shield a little to clear the XS LIM. |
Same here, hoping to be at 400hp.
about to order injectors. I’ve ended up with multiple fuel rails over the years (FFE and CJM mainly, but I’m sure I’ve got some of the old school kind for old Bosch 1600cc kicking around somewhere) and couldn’t remember the injector lengths, as there are multiple options when ordering (60mm, 48mm, 34mm) and design changes through the years. I mocked these up and this combo is FFE 4 port for excessive LIM secondaries and FFE “light” primary. All will use 48mm injectors. I have an old set of ID 725 for primaries I wanted to use, but they are from 2011 so I thought about getting new ones, and unfortunately they don’t make anything smaller than 1050 now. Might go with a non ID injector for primary to get better low end control. I will have plenty of fuel for 400hp on the secondaries (likely 2 of the ID1700xds) Will also be blocking off 2 of the injector ports on the LIM, I need to order new dummy injectors because the ones I have on hand from ProJay are 60mm vs the 48mm I need. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...412f9651d.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f017e6fd5.jpeg and here is one Howard Coleman can be proud of. New knock sensors :) https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...299dfab41.jpeg |
BNRs are a work of art
Just got mine too from BNR. Really set me up nicely, stage 1, new housing, etc. Interested to see how the stage 2’s go
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Ported the LIM and it gets vapor honed this week. I was surprised by how much material needed to be removed, especially at the top flange.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9feb0378e.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...055c10b9d.jpeg |
you are on the money. the manifold, which overall is a necessary and wonderful replacement for the dreadful OE item, is in great need of porting. this can be done by anyone w a Dremel and the appropriate bits.
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you won’t have any issue at all with ID1000 or ID1050 on the primary.
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Thanks. That's good to hear. I ordered the 1050xds and 1700xds. Projay was out of 48mm dummy injectors, so I found some from Race Part Solutions. Hopefully they fit.
Also ordered EGT sensors, the extreme duty thermocouples for nitro dragsters from Exhaust Gas Technologies that Howard has mentioned last a long time on the rotary. I tapped the exhaust housings for the adapters and am just waiting on some 2500 degree sealant to come in (1/8 npt thread in adapters for 1/4" EGT probes from fuel tech). Will be interesting to see how they fit when installed, will be poking through the stock heat shield. Hopefully I didn't put them in a spot where they interfere with something. |
the only thing is the current ID injectors are the short-body pintle style now and the wiring connector is positioned closer to the pintle injection end than the earlier long body version.
It may have been my bad not to have mentioned that just assuming you knew. Whereas I can plug the early ID725/1000 long body injectors in directly in the P1 Renesis position, with the newer X version have an interference between the iron and the injector electrical connector before the injection end seats down into the iron fully. The one REW engine I have has the older ID1000s in the P1 positions. I never attempted to put the newer version in yet. . |
I'm pretty sure they will be ok. This is the same part number you can order from FFE. I think I know what you mean though. I have both the purple and blue injector sleeves. The purple ones are for 34mm injectors. So I think what I will need to do is take the top hat adapter off the 1050, which cuts it down to the standard 34mm injector body, and use that with the purple sleeve. This is if the injector electrical connector bottoms out on the block when using the blue sleeve.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e02baaf3b.jpeg edit: I guess I should just read the instructions. They spell it out pretty clearly. Let’s hope the injector I ordered is the version that the hat just comes off and inside is still the 14mm o ring. If that is the case then it will bolt right in with the purple sleeve. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ddb207626.jpeg |
EGT placement. I really did not want to tap into the BNR housings, but I just can’t figure out a spot on the manifold that has enough clearance for being able to service the sensors or interfering with the sequential twin turbo actuators. There is a post where someone did it, but that is a lot easier when you go parallel turbos which frees up a bit of space. So into the housing I went.
these are stainless 1/8” npt thread in EGT adapters for 1/4” probes. The cast housing tapped pretty easily with simple hand tools. I hope the sealant I used works, these are in pretty tight, hopefully they basically weld themselves in over time and are leak free. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c3a44ef1f.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ae747f7bb.jpeg |
Are you going to poke holes in the manifold heatshield so you can run it. If you don't at least FC Tweak has an option for no heatshield.
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Yes, I’ve got a couple small holes in the heat shield for the EGT sensors to poke through. I may add some more shielding when putting it all together. Knightsports downpipe has also been JetHot coated and the. Sent to HeaderShield for some extra nice shielding. Headershield said that they typically don’t see any benefit of doing ceramic coatings underneath their shield, but I did it anyways because the downpipe is like 20 years old, and had some corrosion so I had it laser cleaned. Even though it’s some kind of stainless, I want to make sure it doesn’t corrode again.
Nexus R3 and injectors came in. Injectors fine, so no worries there. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...74fcb4dff.jpeg |
So HeaderShield is just doing the downpipe? What was the cost on that?
Wonder how much it would run for them to make better OEM heat shields for the twins.... Dale |
I dont remember if my xs lim was port matched to the gaskets, but after seeing this .. its added to the to do list.
Thnaks !! |
Anyone have first hand experience with the newer way FFE recommends to install injectors? In the primary rail, it comes with the purple adapters that basically make 34mm injector bodies higher to be 48mm so the electrical connector can clear the block.
they state to use smaller style o rings and use 2 which I think keeps the body more solid. However, using the rail, once pressure builds up, there is just enough play for the injector to rise and slip into the area of the adapter for the larger 14mm o ring. So I swapped back to the normal 14mm o ring. any thoughts? I feel like I’m missing something. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...00786b576.jpeg You can see how they sit lower, so if I were to tighten the rail, it would raise and leave room for the injector to rise up just enough to slip into the larger oring portion of the adapter and not seal. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...864123e8f.jpeg Same as above with different angle https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...142812fed.jpeg What FFE recommends with double small o rings into the purple style adapter which has a lower section for small o rings and a upper section for the standard 14mm o rings https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2aceb6d72.jpeg Normal 14mm o ring https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c3c2421ce.jpeg Height difference that causes the issue. Left is the double small o ring, right is the 14mm o ring. It sits higher because it seats in the upper portion of the purple adapter. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6b1500c19.jpeg Perfect fitment with the 14mm o rings https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...189a1822a.jpeg Another angle with 14mm o rings installed. |
edit: deleted due to my personal misunderstanding
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You can always shave down the stands to bring the pri rail down for a tighter fit.
I did this for my sec fuel rail. |
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