02 Type R Bathurst
#251
Also my new CSG lights turned up after over a 6 month wait. After taking the hot knife to them and cutting the lenses off in favour of some Uras lenses they now look how I want. I always found the CSG depo lenses a bit dull and really liked the URAS lenses with the black border.
Don't worry, those bullet connectors on the loom will be going, infact most of the loom will be going .
Direct fire R35 coils should arrive this week... Gone with the franklin brackets, went with gold because shiny .
I've got all new seals etc for the motor, the last bits arrived last week so I'll get on and build that up soon. Going with Goopy apex seals this time thanks to my friend Hayden for posting them over . Port wise I've port matched everything but not changed the intake port timing. I've slightly enlarged the exhaust ports, this should get what I want out of my twins and fingers crossed make for a fun road car. With the Link ECU I'll get loads of nice modern features, cruise, canbus systems, gauges, traction control, full properly controlled sequential twins. Fans controlled by PWM based on speed and coolant temp, fuel pump controlled by PWM based on load and rpm etc.
Don't worry, those bullet connectors on the loom will be going, infact most of the loom will be going .
Direct fire R35 coils should arrive this week... Gone with the franklin brackets, went with gold because shiny .
I've got all new seals etc for the motor, the last bits arrived last week so I'll get on and build that up soon. Going with Goopy apex seals this time thanks to my friend Hayden for posting them over . Port wise I've port matched everything but not changed the intake port timing. I've slightly enlarged the exhaust ports, this should get what I want out of my twins and fingers crossed make for a fun road car. With the Link ECU I'll get loads of nice modern features, cruise, canbus systems, gauges, traction control, full properly controlled sequential twins. Fans controlled by PWM based on speed and coolant temp, fuel pump controlled by PWM based on load and rpm etc.
Last edited by Ceylon; 02-08-22 at 08:32 AM.
The following 4 users liked this post by Ceylon:
#252
I've got all new seals etc for the motor, the last bits arrived last week so I'll get on and build that up soon. Going with Goopy apex seals this time thanks to my friend Hayden for posting them over . Port wise I've port matched everything but not changed the intake port timing. I've slightly enlarged the exhaust ports, this should get what I want out of my twins and fingers crossed make for a fun road car. With the Link ECU I'll get loads of nice modern features, cruise, canbus systems, gauges, traction control, full properly controlled sequential twins. Fans controlled by PWM based on speed and coolant temp, fuel pump controlled by PWM based on load and rpm etc.
#253
They do not offer a specific plugin ECU for the FD with enough IO's to support twins with all the extras I'll be running like ethrottle etc. I'll be using a FuryX wire-in with onboard lambda and a new custom engine loom then I get extras IO's and can configure what I need for twins.
#254
Full Member
They do not offer a specific plugin ECU for the FD with enough IO's to support twins with all the extras I'll be running like ethrottle etc. I'll be using a FuryX wire-in with onboard lambda and a new custom engine loom then I get extras IO's and can configure what I need for twins.
Wonder if there would be a market for a stand-alone twin turbo controller. Including all the valves, and control hardware... Just sucks engine speed, load, boost requests or similar off an aftermarket ecu via CAN and does the rest itself, hmmmmm.
#255
Do you think you'll be able to get closed loop boost control working? I couldn't think of a way to do that with a link, given the system has two wastegates that operate at different times :-/. Maybe open loop while the first pre-spool wastegate is being used, then closed loop after transition? I've got a fury for mine too, but it'll be a while before I pop that in there.
Wonder if there would be a market for a stand-alone twin turbo controller. Including all the valves, and control hardware... Just sucks engine speed, load, boost requests or similar off an aftermarket ecu via CAN and does the rest itself, hmmmmm.
Wonder if there would be a market for a stand-alone twin turbo controller. Including all the valves, and control hardware... Just sucks engine speed, load, boost requests or similar off an aftermarket ecu via CAN and does the rest itself, hmmmmm.
The link software is so nice to use. Swapping to PWM control for the fuel pump and fans saves a bunch of outputs if you need more. I'm using the Mercedes controller for the fans rather than an SSR and the Jaguar controller for the fuel pump. Cant beat oem car parts for reliability.
Last edited by Ceylon; 02-10-22 at 02:41 AM.
The following users liked this post:
KYPREO (02-10-22)
#256
www.AusRotary.com
Good to know on the Mercedes controller on the fan. I was planning on using that or a Corvette fan controller for my Spal fan on the series 3 RX-7 (which will be using a Link Thunder ECU). They look to have much better current handling than an SSR.
#257
They are almost identical and made by the same manufacturer. The main difference is the Mercedes one needs an additional cable for power with ignition when the GM one doesn't. In the UK the Mercedes controller is easier to source so I went that route. They have the same current handling etc .
The following users liked this post:
KYPREO (02-10-22)
#258
Boilermakers!
iTrader: (157)
Also my new CSG lights turned up after over a 6 month wait. After taking the hot knife to them and cutting the lenses off in favour of some Uras lenses they now look how I want. I always found the CSG depo lenses a bit dull and really liked the URAS lenses with the black border.
#259
Rotor or no motor
iTrader: (24)
a lot of nice stuff here. Clean and thorough. !!
I do like the hardlines for the fuel rails and the FPD is nice, stuff you dont see too often.
i have considered the GTR coils with these brackets in the past but i had already built my harness and took me months to make a nice clean bolt on solution for the coil brackets to go under the manifold. I kinda wish i saw them before my harness was built
I do like the hardlines for the fuel rails and the FPD is nice, stuff you dont see too often.
i have considered the GTR coils with these brackets in the past but i had already built my harness and took me months to make a nice clean bolt on solution for the coil brackets to go under the manifold. I kinda wish i saw them before my harness was built
#261
Thanks to one of @Howard Coleman CPR posts in a coolant seal thread I've convinced myself that my engine needs studs. So I've got a set of these 10mm studs from Chip Motorsports working their way across the Atlantic.
They seem a really nice solution to get a bit more clamp and I'm all up for anything to improve this motor.
I've done this in the past with the rear lights on FD's but didn't want to risk heating up the CSG's too much as the control units and everything are attached. The URAS lights were glued rather than any kind of sealant to heat up. Also the lenses of most aftermarket 99 lights are not interchangeable as they all mount slightly differently and have different angles on the lens, I used a black marine epoxy sealant to re-attach these after modifying both sides so they mate up ok, it looks good, you cant see it when fitted. I'll get some installed pics soon.
Cant go wrong with a good hard line , I hate braided hose, it is so abrasive and impossible to inspect so always favour hard lines or a good quality rubber hose. I need to make up some supporting mounts for these hardlines, I'll do that when I've done my engine harness to ensure everything works together, loads of space now the coils are gone! I will be replacing all the lines back to the tank and all rubber with ethanol safe rubber. The stainless is a bit more of a faff to bend and flare than other options but it'll keep looking good for a long time .
Speaking of the coils, they arrived yesterday!
They are nicely made. Not sure how nice it'll be swapping plugs in the bay, I'll let you know when they are in but as a solution it keeps the coils in a nice cold area of the engine bay and frees up a lot of the space on top of the block. And no wires .
You might notice they are not fitted correctly in the pic, this is because they come with an m10 1.5mm pitch bolt when my housings are m10 1.25 pitch, so they are gently threaded by hand a couple of turns until it binds just to mock up. New bolts in the correct thread should arrive next week.
Thanks!
They seem a really nice solution to get a bit more clamp and I'm all up for anything to improve this motor.
a lot of nice stuff here. Clean and thorough. !!
I do like the hardlines for the fuel rails and the FPD is nice, stuff you dont see too often.
i have considered the GTR coils with these brackets in the past but i had already built my harness and took me months to make a nice clean bolt on solution for the coil brackets to go under the manifold. I kinda wish i saw them before my harness was built
I do like the hardlines for the fuel rails and the FPD is nice, stuff you dont see too often.
i have considered the GTR coils with these brackets in the past but i had already built my harness and took me months to make a nice clean bolt on solution for the coil brackets to go under the manifold. I kinda wish i saw them before my harness was built
Speaking of the coils, they arrived yesterday!
They are nicely made. Not sure how nice it'll be swapping plugs in the bay, I'll let you know when they are in but as a solution it keeps the coils in a nice cold area of the engine bay and frees up a lot of the space on top of the block. And no wires .
You might notice they are not fitted correctly in the pic, this is because they come with an m10 1.5mm pitch bolt when my housings are m10 1.25 pitch, so they are gently threaded by hand a couple of turns until it binds just to mock up. New bolts in the correct thread should arrive next week.
Thanks!
Last edited by Ceylon; 02-11-22 at 02:08 AM.
#262
Rotor or no motor
iTrader: (24)
Cant go wrong with a good hard line , I hate braided hose, it is so abrasive and impossible to inspect so always favour hard lines or a good quality rubber hose. I need to make up some supporting mounts for these hardlines, I'll do that when I've done my engine harness to ensure everything works together, loads of space now the coils are gone! I will be replacing all the lines back to the tank and all rubber with ethanol safe rubber. The stainless is a bit more of a faff to bend and flare than other options but it'll keep looking good for a long time .
Speaking of the coils, they arrived yesterday!
They are nicely made. Not sure how nice it'll be swapping plugs in the bay, I'll let you know when they are in but as a solution it keeps the coils in a nice cold area of the engine bay and frees up a lot of the space on top of the block. And no wires .
You might notice they are not fitted correctly in the pic, this is because they come with an m10 1.5mm pitch bolt when my housings are m10 1.25 pitch, so they are gently threaded by hand a couple of turns until it binds just to mock up. New bolts in the correct thread should arrive next week.
Thanks!
i do not like stainless braided hoses either but sometimes you dont really have too many options unless you do hardlines like that
i was initially using the stainless braided one , i then switched to the nylon where appropriate
i have now switched to the goodridge 910 hose which is an aramid fiber braid. really nice solution and not abrasive at all
thats a great project you got going! keep up the nice work !!
Last edited by R-R-Rx7; 02-11-22 at 06:36 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Ceylon (02-11-22)
#264
Rotor or no motor
iTrader: (24)
#265
Boilermakers!
iTrader: (157)
I've done this in the past with the rear lights on FD's but didn't want to risk heating up the CSG's too much as the control units and everything are attached. The URAS lights were glued rather than any kind of sealant to heat up. Also the lenses of most aftermarket 99 lights are not interchangeable as they all mount slightly differently and have different angles on the lens, I used a black marine epoxy sealant to re-attach these after modifying both sides so they mate up ok, it looks good, you cant see it when fitted. I'll get some installed pics soon.
#266
Full Member
Looks like they sell a PNP harness to get them working with a factory setup. No reason you couldn't make one of these yourself though.
#267
That make sense if all the control board are attached. I have open a lot of headlights and tail lights in the past, but never on a bumper light. I have a DEPO 93 bumper light I want to experience something on, that's why I was wondering if they can be open by just heat. Do you have any picture on where you made the cut on the housing?
New clutch arrived. My mate Dean has one in his car and it feels like stock but holds mid 500s. Definitely want to keep this a road car and don't want a heavy on off switch pedal.
Further simplified the UIM for DBW, thought I may as well do it now as when the car is working I'm unlikely to want to take it apart again as it has been off the road for so long .
Bought a new titanium midpipe, this thing is so light! Really shows up my finger prints though haha.
Gone with twin Bosch knock sensors as knock is such a critical tuning aid and the oem oil filed one is known for being a bit pants. I had to run a tap through the Franklin knock brackets as it was only partially threaded and loctite in a thread converter to m8 1.25. Titanium hardware with a collar to centre the sensor nicely. I'm changing most of the sensors on the block to more modern, accurate and easy to source sensors.
Last edited by Ceylon; 02-28-22 at 02:20 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Ceylon:
EREBUS (02-28-22),
ZE Power MX6 (03-02-22)
#269
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (26)
What makes it smoother I wonder? Looks nearly the same as stock FD.
I fitted some collar weights on the stick under the boot to add 300 grams throw weight. plus a re-a shifter **** that weighs 300 grams itself.
Finger tip flicking between gears.
I fitted some collar weights on the stick under the boot to add 300 grams throw weight. plus a re-a shifter **** that weighs 300 grams itself.
Finger tip flicking between gears.
Last edited by Redbul; 02-28-22 at 07:10 AM. Reason: spelling correction
#273
I could drill and weld a bung into my FEED downpipe but it's freshly ceramic coated and I'd rather just use the oem location.
#275
Is that the Black Diamond stage 2 kevlar clutch?