arinb12

I have been doing some reading on auxiliary injection, and feel I would like to peform this modification to my car. More for safety than tuning.

I have just bought the car and had it compression tested. Will continue to do so periodically so that I can ensure the best life for the car and preventatively rebuild when compression becomes low.

The previous owner has told me the following

Street ported
Twin oil coolers
Dyno’d at 327hp, 282ft lb torque with a nice ‘safe and durable’ map.
Sequential twins work perfectly, all ‘rats nest’ vacuum pipes renewed with silicon.

Full stainless exhaust 3.5” Nur Spec back box, WGT downpipe, 3.5” straight through centre section.
Apexi active silencer.


Looking at water injection I see many kits - I am not looking to Upgrade or tune for more horsepower for a good year or more yet.

So I would like to inject purely for safety for the engine - lower temperatures, less carbon, less heat on the engine in hot weather.


I have seen many pump kits

Aem
devils water
Aqua mist
cooling mist

How do I decide which one to get - how does nozzle size work?

I know then I am fitting post turbo - but where (closer to manifold after a sensor? - which sensor is this?)

Sorry for all the questions - I have only been an owner a week!

neil_jdmr

Hi,

I fitted AEM WI and would defo recommend it. Powergains in essex fitted the AEM kit as they have used that kit many times before and mapped my car after WI and i would highly recommend them. I travelled 300 miles to see these guys so if i was in london it would be a no-brainer for me.

The aem is cheap to buy and a good comprehensive kit, once set up all you need to do is top up the water. WI is probably the best modification i have done as the harder you push the colder the IC temps get.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

all the kits are quite similar in many ways until you get into the mechanical systems. the ones you listed are all relatively easy to install and manage by understanding how the system works and following the manufacturer instructions.

nozzle selection will be dependent on your cars tuning, too much water and you will get misfires at high boost, in which case back the nozzle size down until the misfires go away. the richer the car is tuned, the less tolerant it will be of the water injection in larger amounts. an ignition amplifier will help bypass that issue also, the stock FD ignition system isn't the best around.

the AEM is a popular kit and seems to work well, i've installed about a dozen and not had too many issues with them.

arinb12

Having just read the following -

Boost Switch

Our boost switch is adjustable from 1 to 25 psi. It will turn the system on when you reach the boost level that the switch is set at. Any time past your set level it stays on. You can run upto 60 psi turbo pressure into this boost switch. This switch is set at 10 psi and you can adjust it using the 5/64 hex key on the top. You will get 1 foot of silicon boost line AND a boost tee.



How do I know what boost to set mine at? Im running as original post states.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

*To determine nozzle size, there's a sticky in this section with a formula based on factors that you know. Guessing yours will be about an M3. I've had no problems with the stock ignition system on water only.

*I think the sensor you asked about in your first post is the Intake Air Thermosensor...or IAT for short. It tells the ECU the temperature of the intake air as it enters the engine. Cooler air = Denser air, Denser air = more fuel.

*Where you set you the level of boost to activate the pump is your choice. You're adding water injection for safety... i.e. knock suppression, cooling and carbon control. You live in a relatively mild climate How large of a tank you have may also play into it.