Tempting going AI
04-07-17, 10:51 PM
#1
Tempting going AI
Ok guys I'm tempted to run water methanol on my Streetport FD. I want to achieve 470+whp . With the supporting mods of course but can't seem to find info on what ignition system will get me there with MI. I been seeing people stating that because your going water methanol you have to have good ignition other than if you were going e85. Will stock FD ignition get me to my power goal levels? Or what ignition is best to go with like coils and plugs and wires. Somebody has to have an answer with already having water methanol by this time now. Tips and advice will be helpful. Thank you in advance.
Last edited by Henry Erazo; 04-07-17 at 11:03 PM.
04-08-17, 09:00 AM
#2
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
there really are only 3 viable options re fueling a single turbo FD.
Racegas
E85
Pump and AI
option 4 is pump gas w no AI. after you do option 4 pls call me and i will rebuild your motor and sell an appropriate AI system.
as to ignition...
you ask a very good and perhaps under-appreciated question.
since the rotary is capable of flowing more air per displacement than a piston motor higher combustion chamber pressures are created. igniting such pressure is sort of like driving a nail into your granite counter top. you'll need a large hammer and a serious nail.
while more space has been devoted to fueling our motors than ignition it is clear that ignition is every bit as important.
it is also sneaky in that it is easily possible to have an ignition problem (misfires) and not know it. for instance if your spark plug gap is a touch too wide your car may still make great power yet have misfires.
one easy way to determine this, as it will not generally be evident, is by doing a dyno pull at zero smoothing. if you have a slightly inadequate ignition you should see a fine saw toothed pattern just before peak torque thru max RPM.
the fix can be spark plug gap adjustment or an ignition system switch.
as to a proper setup:
generally if you are 400 or less the stock coils with a very good set of wires and plugs properly gapped should work without misfires. properly fixtured FDs running around 400 using between 300 and 500 CC/Min of water as AI should not have an ignition problem with good condition stock coils, wires and plugs.
above 400 RWHP it would be wise to switch to Mercury Marine/IGN-1A coils (rebadged by many vendors such as AEM etc).
there are a few Vendors on our site that offer a handy patch harness for the coils so check them out.
a chain is as strong as its weakest link...
two other items enter the picture to drive the nail into the granite:
plug wires and plugs.
wires = Magnecor visit the site read the tech and have them make you a custom set. not particularly expensive. awesome.
plugs... maybe 2 options.
copper nickel NGK BR10ES
iridium platinum NGK 6725 (10 heat range)
both work well.
done properly a 500 rwhp FD can be a dependable DD. there are many decisions that need to be made correctly.
AI and a proper ignition system are certainly part of the picture.
BTW, i run a Kenne Bell Boost A Spark. the system adds voltage to the coils when in boost. V is adj. not necessary but an additional helper.
Howard
Racegas
E85
Pump and AI
option 4 is pump gas w no AI. after you do option 4 pls call me and i will rebuild your motor and sell an appropriate AI system.
as to ignition...
you ask a very good and perhaps under-appreciated question.
since the rotary is capable of flowing more air per displacement than a piston motor higher combustion chamber pressures are created. igniting such pressure is sort of like driving a nail into your granite counter top. you'll need a large hammer and a serious nail.
while more space has been devoted to fueling our motors than ignition it is clear that ignition is every bit as important.
it is also sneaky in that it is easily possible to have an ignition problem (misfires) and not know it. for instance if your spark plug gap is a touch too wide your car may still make great power yet have misfires.
one easy way to determine this, as it will not generally be evident, is by doing a dyno pull at zero smoothing. if you have a slightly inadequate ignition you should see a fine saw toothed pattern just before peak torque thru max RPM.
the fix can be spark plug gap adjustment or an ignition system switch.
as to a proper setup:
generally if you are 400 or less the stock coils with a very good set of wires and plugs properly gapped should work without misfires. properly fixtured FDs running around 400 using between 300 and 500 CC/Min of water as AI should not have an ignition problem with good condition stock coils, wires and plugs.
above 400 RWHP it would be wise to switch to Mercury Marine/IGN-1A coils (rebadged by many vendors such as AEM etc).
there are a few Vendors on our site that offer a handy patch harness for the coils so check them out.
a chain is as strong as its weakest link...
two other items enter the picture to drive the nail into the granite:
plug wires and plugs.
wires = Magnecor visit the site read the tech and have them make you a custom set. not particularly expensive. awesome.
plugs... maybe 2 options.
copper nickel NGK BR10ES
iridium platinum NGK 6725 (10 heat range)
both work well.
done properly a 500 rwhp FD can be a dependable DD. there are many decisions that need to be made correctly.
AI and a proper ignition system are certainly part of the picture.
BTW, i run a Kenne Bell Boost A Spark. the system adds voltage to the coils when in boost. V is adj. not necessary but an additional helper.
Howard
04-08-17, 11:17 AM
#3
Ppl here in sweden do timeattack racing with 600hp+ from 13b engines without AI on pump gas for season after season without issues.....i think our gas is equal to your 94? Its also not super hot here....
04-10-17, 09:00 AM
#4
I ran stock Chevy Silverado ignition coils (square LS1-style) with OEM Delco plug wires and $3 NGK BR10EG plugs. It lit off up to 1000cc of water and 30psi of boost with no issues. Plugs were gapped to 0.020" and idled and drove fine. Pretty much any LS coil will blow the OEM Mazda coils away. The D585 coils are the best, but require very specific dwell time. If you have an aftermarket ECU, any of the LS coils are an easy retrofit and are affordable and available.
04-26-17, 01:21 PM
#6
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
while the BR10ES nickel plugs are shorter they have worked just fine in a number of my motors. one made 614 rwhp at 25.5 psi (GT4094r) and was raced/flogged with no problems. there are numerous plug options many of which work fine.