The finer the atomization and furthest from the inducer inlet the more vaporization can be expected. (Actually a quote from a knowledgeable but arrogant authority)

I use the 80˚ nozzle but there is also a 160˚ that probably would be better for side entry.
Barry

Currently I don't see any reason to use an intercooler. I have yet to do a car that can see as low intake temperatures as Cozmo's car. I did one short 25psi pull in 40C weather, and saw 29C for intake temperatures after the pull. Hard to really gauge what the intake temps are since the sensor is so slow to react. Now what its going to be like in winter time here when its under 25C?

Thats only half positive point; water and oil temps are drastically reduced. Half the work we do on FDs here is for cooling problems. I honestly can't see FDs were sold in AZ.

Not only that its easier to work on, less clutter, and weight. Not to mention the power gain from less restriction of the IC, and its associated bends.

I however haven't tried every possible setup as its hard to gauge effectiveness from car to car since their almost always not modded the same way. However I've run a lot of aux injected, intercooler setups and this so far looks like to be the best.

Here is a picture of Cozmo's bay currently running, but not @ 100%.

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/gall...70_42_6102.jpg

Awesome ! I see the pre-turbo nozzle, where is the other one ?

In the top of the elbow before the TB

correct...pointed straight at the throttle body.

I have the Pineapple Racing Airpump removal pulley now instead of that Greddy pulley kit, and we REALLY need to finish the ducting for the radiator too.

in CA tonight... I saw 75-80C oil temps 86C coolant temps and 43C IAT. In boosting to 7PSI i never saw more than 50C IAT without water injection. With the injection these temperatureswent down to 20C and below. Amazing what you people in the non-HELL climates see for temps.

So you guys with the pre turbo injection. Are you guys running some sort of check valve? If so where is the check valve located and do you have two, one next to each nozzle? Also what AI systems are you running this on and does it/they have special atomizers for the preturbo setups?

Look at the picture of my engine bay...the check valve is right above the E in the a GARRETT writing on the turbo. I dont have one next to the nozzle in the elbow because when it injects the atmosphere it is injecting into is under pressure. I am running an Aquamist HFS-5 injection system. The precompressor jet I have is their 0.3mm jet and it has excellent atomization without an outside air source.

so in your setup what stops the water from exiting the nozzle if the check valve isn't doing it?

And you ditched the PS??? Did you loop the lines or something?

I have a Maval manual steering rack

Great number. What was the air temp in CA compared to your 43C IAT?
(Side note, Chuck Westbrook sands the IAT plastic tip down to the glass bulb to decrease reaction time. It helps.)

What size AI tank are you running for Total Chemical Cooling?

Barry

Hahahah.

What a coincidence, RR had to butt in to plug his WI system. I'm sick of that guy's bullshit "I'm the smartest person ever because of my engineering degree" attitude.

Don't worry, my friend, you've already proven to us that you're capable of putting together a potent machine. I'm sure you won't fail us this time. :)

I don't know if you've read much into Brian D. Cain's experiences with Alkycontrol's system, but he was running up in the 24-26 psi range on a 60-1 HiFi half-bridge setup with the stock TII top-mounted intercooler and experiencing significantly cooler IATs and exhaust temps. I believe this was with one maxed out M15 nozzle... I don't see why, with enough careful planning and a high enough ratio of pump/methanol, you couldn't push the bar even further.

^ ass ;)

^ Nice mate,

I am finishing off my upgrade and only keeping my stock SP intercooler but doubling the power :) :) :)

RR

Any pictures Rice?

Cozmo, what size tank do you have? Wouldn't it be great to have one that would

fit in the spare well and hold about 5 gals.

Barry

My tank is 1.5gallons but I think I might go to, two 1-gallon tanks. A 5 gallon tank would be nice but I dont know if it would be necessary in my setup. The way it is now I use about one gallon per tank of fuel (about 16 gallons).

My coolant and oil temps have become completely a non-issue with this setup. The oil never really exceeds 95C when under load for extended periods (90+mph up a 6% grade for 15-20 minutes) This was at about 95F ambient temps. The coolant was 86C during this period as well, never exceeding that and settling to 84C when the roads flattened which is as cool as I have ever seen. IAT was from 53-55C as boost pressures varied from 0-6PSI. I was only injecting precompressor for my return trip and it was a very small amount (max of 150cc/min).

Have you changed your oil yet ? How did it look ? Milky or was everything cool ?

.

SCHWEET, the info I was looking for; so in reality, you might not need a after compressor injection?

Thanks for keeping us up to date on your info :icon_tup: :ylsuper:

This was with just pure water right? In the past I was leaning more towards 100% methanol, and now no more than 50/50.
Obviously there are a lot of variables, but it seems with the higher pump pressures, and better nozzels that 100% water might be the ticket, might not need the higher octane from methanol.

^ The octane is a liability rather than an asset with what we are doing, you see it in 100% meth cars when limits are pushed you still need to run 50% or more on the rich side to stop detonation, water is in another league altogether as its not a fuel and has no such limitations associated with it.

I definately want to tapper back to a mixture that isn't close to being flammable...maybe 60w/40m or even 70w/30m. The amount of methanol does make a big difference in the amount of cooling it does to the air intake temp. That I have definately noticed. Straight water isn't as good at cooling the intake temp even though I know it is much better at supressing detonation.

good test of that is stick you finger in a bowl of meth v's a bowl of water and see which feels cooler when you take it out and wave it about :P :) :) :) meth will own water, but thats not what your trying to achieve, thats why you should run a charge cooler and water to get the density gain and the stable combustion as both together work best or better without going too full on in any one extreme application.

But its all fun and seeing how different people attack it is interesting so keep it up I say, the simple fact that people are usign this stuff in all forms is great :)

Hell why doesn't someone do pre compressor meth and post compressor water....