Just got my car dyno'd the other day and at 5900 rpm it hit 400rwhp at 18psi and is now being tuned to 8500 rpm. Anyways the guy that's doing the tuning (kilo) is not very hip on Alky injection so he isn't using my setup at all. I was wondering what adding a 50/50 mix with two m10 nozzles will do to the tune. I mean whatever the HP is going to be at 8500 is going to be great but I would like to use some alky injection not only just because I would like to use what I have but also because I would like the added reliability benefits of the alky/water injection. THanks guys.

 

Dang this subsection ain't bumpin' like back in the old days (last year ). People getting tired of the alky injection or is it just old news now? I know kilo isn't a big fan of it probably because he is more like "all alky or nothing", but I would like to know if I could do this for reliability and maybe a small hp gain.

 

Hey man, I don't have any experience at all with water injection; crap my kit has been sitting on a closet for over a year

I would think that a system like the FJO would work perfectly. Once your car is fully tuned, you can add an AI system that is tuneable. I know the FJO, and believe that the coolingmist allows you to control how much and when respectively.

Also, you might want to read the following thread:
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=58611

My goal is to add AI after the tune, not as part of the the tune; will see how that goes, maybe in a ayear or so

 

thanks for the info. I've got the coolingmist progressive kit with 2 m10 nozzles but will probably change it to 2 smaller nozzles since it woun't be a part of the tune but that's just it really, I have no idea what to do but I have seen quite a few piston cars run it without a tune and it's been fine but I know you never compare pistons to rotors, that would just be dumb.

 

Hater,
I use the smaller nozzle preturbo and a larger one just past the IC. You will need to pull fuel when you add 50/50 meth water. Just observe the mixtures used in the present tune and then keep taking fuel out to you re-establish those AFRs.



I use a relay to energize my Profec B. No AI pressure, no boost increase.
See diagram.
Barry

 

Sweet. This is exactly what I was going to try for my setup and I was wondering if the clog sensor would have enough voltage to trip the relay. Have you tested that?

Also your nozzle is alot further upstream than most I have seen which are in the elbow area. Why did you choose to go there (advantages/disadvantages)? Also would you use a different setup for just water injection?

 

I try for as much evaporative cooling as possible, so the further the distance the better.

The pre turbo jet is shown below.

Works just as well with water.

Calculations for size were done through http://not2fast.com/thermo/water_inj...opt_mass.shtml

 

Since water is not a fuel, if all you use is water, it shouldn't throw off your AF

 

Do you still have you air intake temp in the stock position? I have been thinking about moving it to the cool side intercooler piping but adding water injection has made me think twice about it. What are your thoughts on that?

 

Shaman, you are correct, AFRs won't change. I was thinking of nozzle location.

I moved the IAS to the RE intake elbow and removed the plastic from the tip to expose the bulb. (You can see it in the engine picture.)

Hondahater, didn't intend to steal your thread. Sorry!

Barry

 

ahhh it's no problem man I'm just listening

 

Barry, how does that work with your filter? Do you think it causes problems with the filter at all? I am trying to find a place for a preturbo, and was thinking about doing the same thing. Mount the nozzle in the airbox and point it at the intake point.

 

Shaman, it appears to work well. The spray must be encapsulated by the incoming air of the filter around it because no stains or fluids have be noted. My spray starts at 2 psi of boost so a healthy flow to the compressor has been established.

I also have a “heat soak relief” switch under the dash that I modulate to drop the temp back to at least 40ºC before a run. It will take 10ºC out of the intake in seconds.

Barry



(View of the AI nozzle at the end of a 10" long K&N filter.)

 

I am interested in your heat soak switch. Any more info? A guy on the snow forums has a 302 powered volvo with a heat soak problem, and my TMIH could probably use it too.

 

The Coolingmist Shurflo pumps run by modulating the ground to the motor. My switch is just a full ground. It must be used carefully to keep from flooding the intake track.
If time permits a light 2 psi boost run to 6000 rpm will allow the Varicool controller to inject the correct amount of AI to cool the intake.
Barry