AEM V2 water injection kit
I am looking for basic Water Injection kit. I will be using it just for the purpose of safety to lower the chances of knock.
I have been looking at the AEM V2. Code number 30-3300
any input would be appreciate it.
what are your thoughts about that kit.?
Thanks..
I have been looking at the AEM V2. Code number 30-3300
any input would be appreciate it.
what are your thoughts about that kit.?
Thanks..
I have the v1 for some time and it is excellent.
i believe v2 is exactly the same except better controller (has ***** instead of needing tiny screwdriver to adjust but otherwise the same)
i believe v2 is exactly the same except better controller (has ***** instead of needing tiny screwdriver to adjust but otherwise the same)
If you turn on water/meth too early it is possible to hurt an engine. You'll feel it bog well before that point though, so continue moving it up until the transition is crisp/unnoticed.
The downside of using their controller vs. wiring it into a standalone ECU is you're unable to do it via RPM. I believe for the half a dozen cars I've tuned with similar setups, it pays off big to stage it later rather than sooner.
The AEM Nozzle you'd want to run is their Medium, 500cc, and ideally right after the intercooler so it has as much room to cool the intake air temperature as possible. Too much and it floods the intake. Use it more for temperature control, it works wonders.
Feel free to email me if you have any questions.
RGHTBrainDesign@Gmail.com
I used the small nozzle on mine, I think 250 cc on the old kits. Its just for a bit of protection. I have enough power on pump gas. You can adjust starting boost and max flow boost. There is a test function so you can see what the flow looks like with the injector out of the car. I tell you its pretty nice, starts soft and then ramps up. Even with the small nozzle, myself and one whole end of the garage was completely wet with impossibly fine mist in a couple of seconds.
edit: boost not rpm, brain fart lol
edit: boost not rpm, brain fart lol
Last edited by WANKfactor; Dec 5, 2019 at 07:17 PM.
I use one as my dyno WMI controller for development or when we don't know how its going to resolve itself in the chassis (engine dyno). They're simple and reliable. Honestly as long as you're using a real Shureflo pump (US made, I've seen some that were labeled as such but weren't made in the US) with the propler bypass almost every kit I've seen has been good enough for me to consider 'usable'.
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Thanks everyone of you for your wise knowledge and input. I placed the order through rx7 store for the aem v2.
Mean while i will keep reading about it.
I have one more question. I have a fast reacting Air temp sensor, which its expouse filament. I have read mix opinion on this. Some said that there is not issues with it of getting blown away with water and other that don't recommend on using an expouse air temp sensor with wi.
thanks
Mean while i will keep reading about it.
I have one more question. I have a fast reacting Air temp sensor, which its expouse filament. I have read mix opinion on this. Some said that there is not issues with it of getting blown away with water and other that don't recommend on using an expouse air temp sensor with wi.
thanks
Thanks everyone of you for your wise knowledge and input. I placed the order through rx7 store for the aem v2.
Mean while i will keep reading about it.
I have one more question. I have a fast reacting Air temp sensor, which its expouse filament. I have read mix opinion on this. Some said that there is not issues with it of getting blown away with water and other that don't recommend on using an expouse air temp sensor with wi.
thanks
Mean while i will keep reading about it.
I have one more question. I have a fast reacting Air temp sensor, which its expouse filament. I have read mix opinion on this. Some said that there is not issues with it of getting blown away with water and other that don't recommend on using an expouse air temp sensor with wi.
thanks
I haven't had any issues in the past, though I stopped using standard thermistors and use thermocouples.
Thanks everyone of you for your wise knowledge and input. I placed the order through rx7 store for the aem v2.
Mean while i will keep reading about it.
I have one more question. I have a fast reacting Air temp sensor, which its expouse filament. I have read mix opinion on this. Some said that there is not issues with it of getting blown away with water and other that don't recommend on using an expouse air temp sensor with wi.
thanks
Mean while i will keep reading about it.
I have one more question. I have a fast reacting Air temp sensor, which its expouse filament. I have read mix opinion on this. Some said that there is not issues with it of getting blown away with water and other that don't recommend on using an expouse air temp sensor with wi.
thanks
OP, I haven’t read your build thread so not sure of power level, but there is a formula in the Stickys for nozzle sizing. An M5 nozzle would be for quite a lot of it.
Properly sized, it can come on early and stay on without issue or noticeable power loss. Too large of nozzle is probably more likely to do harm than coming on too early as he suggested..
I think nozzle placement should be AFTER the IAT sensor. Discussed in the next thread below this one. Reference post# 10.
Post IC, water will help only a little with IAT’s. Not nearly as much as alcohol. Water’s biggest effect is in the combustion chamber....cooling, knock and hopefully gradual carbon reduction.
I think nozzle placement should be AFTER the IAT sensor. Discussed in the next thread below this one. Reference post# 10.
Post IC, water will help only a little with IAT’s. Not nearly as much as alcohol. Water’s biggest effect is in the combustion chamber....cooling, knock and hopefully gradual carbon reduction.
Last edited by Sgtblue; Dec 16, 2019 at 10:48 AM.
….
WATER
1 gallon per hour = 63 CC minute. so for our typical 400 rw rotary hp (470 fwhp) engine that would be.... 4.7 X 63 CC minute or 296 CC X 1.1 (rotary inefficiency V piston) or 325 CC/Min. probably a good place to start. i believe Scott and Rice have mentioned they are running in the 300-400 cc neighborhood....
howard coleman
WATER
1 gallon per hour = 63 CC minute. so for our typical 400 rw rotary hp (470 fwhp) engine that would be.... 4.7 X 63 CC minute or 296 CC X 1.1 (rotary inefficiency V piston) or 325 CC/Min. probably a good place to start. i believe Scott and Rice have mentioned they are running in the 300-400 cc neighborhood....
howard coleman
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