blown fuel pump fuse
11-04-13, 01:15 PM
#26
might seem a little cheesy but they work just fine
i tend to use manufacturer specs as a baseline but never as a bible, it's always good to know exactly how much current is flowing through a circuit. IME pumps always pull more amps when they are run beyond 75% load and the fuel will warm the pump and push the amperage higher, bench testing a pump in a static environment will always yield less draw and higher flow. this is also why most pumps that i have run near maximum rating died while on the dyno.
i tend to use manufacturer specs as a baseline but never as a bible, it's always good to know exactly how much current is flowing through a circuit. IME pumps always pull more amps when they are run beyond 75% load and the fuel will warm the pump and push the amperage higher, bench testing a pump in a static environment will always yield less draw and higher flow. this is also why most pumps that i have run near maximum rating died while on the dyno.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-04-13 at 01:22 PM.
11-04-13, 01:30 PM
#27
Hi Howard, that black stuff that’s splattered inside the tank and in the fuel pump tray is factory undercoating as the tank going thru the assembly line. Just over spay when they had the evap. Emissions cap and fuel pump holder off. Note your fuel pump holder is not covered in undercoating. As far as submersible intank hose you must use the Gates fuel/E85 intank submersible hose.
SUBMERSIBLE FUEL LINE HOSE - Racing News - Racing | Gates Corporation
I use the Gates stuff and or I use a Black nylon fuel line special designed for intank or external use. I have use both with regular and highly oxygenated race fuels and E85, the hoses never let me down. I don’t remember at the moment who makes it but when I get home I can look it up in my records if you’re interested. I believe I have some extra if you need a few inches.
Anyway this stuff works for me, your experience may differ.
SUBMERSIBLE FUEL LINE HOSE - Racing News - Racing | Gates Corporation
I use the Gates stuff and or I use a Black nylon fuel line special designed for intank or external use. I have use both with regular and highly oxygenated race fuels and E85, the hoses never let me down. I don’t remember at the moment who makes it but when I get home I can look it up in my records if you’re interested. I believe I have some extra if you need a few inches.
Anyway this stuff works for me, your experience may differ.
More details on this hose?
Thanks.
Howard, glad to hear the motor is still good to go. I think that what you said about still having some stock rubber line on the fuelt return could be your culprit.
Hope you get it sorted, really anxious to see what the 9180 does with 85.
11-04-13, 02:09 PM
#29
Racing Rotary Since 1983
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Goopy Apex Seals...
a large thumbs up. i was doing some initial road tuning in July running on gas and a water meth AI combo. the AI was being delivered thru fuel injectors pre and post turbo.
or so i thought.
i was getting knock where i shouldn't. i was just running off the spring around 14 psi w my BW. it was really laying down the power. i was rolling into 3rd gear and the 295s in the rear could only hold 46% throttle. i couldn't figure out the knock until i figured the water in my water meth had plugged the AI injectors. i was getting zero AI.
note the knock spike in the rear rotor ... over 600 on my ViPEC.
i did swap out the system and eventually switched to E85 w a small nozzle delivered water meth component.
the bottom line is after numerous mid year knock events and more than 40 25+ psi dyno pulls including 5th gear my Goopy seals still show top tick compression!
i am using them in most of my builds going forward and would love to disassemble my motor to take a look at them but my motor doesn't want to come apart.
howard
a large thumbs up. i was doing some initial road tuning in July running on gas and a water meth AI combo. the AI was being delivered thru fuel injectors pre and post turbo.
or so i thought.
i was getting knock where i shouldn't. i was just running off the spring around 14 psi w my BW. it was really laying down the power. i was rolling into 3rd gear and the 295s in the rear could only hold 46% throttle. i couldn't figure out the knock until i figured the water in my water meth had plugged the AI injectors. i was getting zero AI.
note the knock spike in the rear rotor ... over 600 on my ViPEC.
i did swap out the system and eventually switched to E85 w a small nozzle delivered water meth component.
the bottom line is after numerous mid year knock events and more than 40 25+ psi dyno pulls including 5th gear my Goopy seals still show top tick compression!
i am using them in most of my builds going forward and would love to disassemble my motor to take a look at them but my motor doesn't want to come apart.
howard
11-13-13, 09:12 PM
#33
Howard, Take apart the pump and see if there is any gear wear. E85 has been known to break down certain filters/socks which gets sucked up by the pump( also, e85 has a higher chance of having containments than gasoline). Which in return draws more power and blows the fuse. That black stuff could possibly be from the wear of the gears in the pump or other parts of fuel system no compatible with e85. Judging by a quick look at your pictures it's worth a shot to see...just tying to help! Case
Last edited by turbowash; 11-13-13 at 09:16 PM.
12-02-13, 03:05 PM
#35
Racing Rotary Since 1983
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
here's the chart that tells the tale as to my fuse. i can't plead ignorance because i posted the chart in my thread "Fuel pumps 2013." note the required amps around 73 psi (43 rail plus 30 boost)...
16.4 amps at 12 V
18.3 amps at 13.5 V
running the pump as i was at 16 V would require 21.6 amps.
the above is calculated at 30 psi which is the top boost contemplated w my 4094r.
we didn't have enough time to get to 30 on the dyno so i was running a max of 26. further, my rail pressure was 39.
so 39 plus 26 = 65 PSI.
15.6 amps at 12 V
17.5 amps at 13.5 V
20.7 amps at 16 V
the fuse worked fine for a couple of months and over 40 dyno pulls including 3 runs thru 5 gears on the dyno. it also worked fine on my first Texas run thru 4 gears and a bit of fifth.
it was 3 hours between my first and second run so it certainly had time to cool. the fuse failed on the second run as i shifted into 4th.
i do feel the fuel filter blockage was a contributing factor but the fuse would have probably failed at some point at the 16 V level.
i will upgrade any wiring as well as the fuse and may see if the pump is adequate without the BAP.
it is worth noting that the OE fuel pump fuse in the FD is 20 Amps.
R!, thanks for the pics.... i do now believe the black deposit under the fuel filter is a result of overspray thru the small round hole near the fuel pump access.
Howard
16.4 amps at 12 V
18.3 amps at 13.5 V
running the pump as i was at 16 V would require 21.6 amps.
the above is calculated at 30 psi which is the top boost contemplated w my 4094r.
we didn't have enough time to get to 30 on the dyno so i was running a max of 26. further, my rail pressure was 39.
so 39 plus 26 = 65 PSI.
15.6 amps at 12 V
17.5 amps at 13.5 V
20.7 amps at 16 V
the fuse worked fine for a couple of months and over 40 dyno pulls including 3 runs thru 5 gears on the dyno. it also worked fine on my first Texas run thru 4 gears and a bit of fifth.
it was 3 hours between my first and second run so it certainly had time to cool. the fuse failed on the second run as i shifted into 4th.
i do feel the fuel filter blockage was a contributing factor but the fuse would have probably failed at some point at the 16 V level.
i will upgrade any wiring as well as the fuse and may see if the pump is adequate without the BAP.
it is worth noting that the OE fuel pump fuse in the FD is 20 Amps.
R!, thanks for the pics.... i do now believe the black deposit under the fuel filter is a result of overspray thru the small round hole near the fuel pump access.
Howard
Last edited by Howard Coleman; 12-02-13 at 03:08 PM.
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