Leonh

Okay I'll tweak it so im at around -7% or a little less if thats going to be the best in the long run,

I've got no emissions equipment on the car as it stands, I can run this legally in the UK due to the age of the car.

Leonh

Map:
Okay starting to lean it up around the map, vac side is starting to look more like it. Boost is still pig rich accross the map. Would have been using O2 Feedback to help me a little but can't for the life in me get the thing to work!

Car:
New #10 plugs in trailing and leading and the idles far more smooth (But I think it can improve it by getting more resolution down bellow on the map, microsec bit will be changed once I find out where my maximum is), EGT gauge has however given up the ghost. so getting those two EGTS in the runners working with the ECU is a must now.

I'm also really loving the new AEMDATA tool for looking at the log files it's so much more usable and easy to read.

Leonh

Spent the last week driving the 7 daily to work and back, she's becoming far more of a ***** to drive, Still far too rich in the boost areas and the transition from boost to vac but getting all that keyed in right will take me time. I'd rather take a few % out at a time than go mega lean.

If somebody who has got O2 feedback working would look at my map and give me some pointers as to why its non functional it would be kind

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

Many Reasons, 1st, set O2 FB Max load to something higher than 4psi. Currently FB will turn off above 4psi. 2nd, O2 FB rich and lean limit. This is the allowable limit in % that the ECU is allowed to correct. currently it is set to 0%. this means the ECU is not given the ability to make corrections. set these values to +5/-5. you can spread them out more if you like. you should not rely on O2 feedback for the car to run properly. 3rd, You need to set your O2 FB Time vs. Temp Table, O2 FB PRO Gain Table and, O2 FB INT Gain Table. You can copy these tables out of the Help > Contents > Advanced Tuning > O2 Feedback.

You also need to make sure you have your external wideband input on the correct pin. it needs to be set up under Setup> Sensors> Oxygen Sensor> O2 Sensor #1> O2 Sensor #1 Wizard. You will also make sure the O2#1 Gain is set correctly. you can find that under the "Setup" template.

You seem to have other issues in your basic map settings like Staged flow ratio. I would go back over all of you sensor, injector and coil settings. Make sure all of those are correct before you spend anymore time tuning the fuel and timing maps.

EB Turbo

Leonh

Thanks for the input EB, I apperciate it.

I set the rich/lean percent for the 02 FB to 0% incase it activated. I'll look at those tables you mentioned as I know they are zeroed at the moment. I want it active purely for minor changes to the fuel delivery not for correcting lean/rich spots.

What do you feel is wrong with the staged flow ratio? I'm running 4x 850's so from my understanding the staged ratio should be 50% for areas on boost or when the first bank of injectors is likly to be maxed out?

As far as I am aware the coils and sensors are all setup correctly. I've compared cals to the startup one for many of the sensors and coils. The o2 was set using the wizard included in AEMpro. o2 gain was set using a multimeter mathcing the ECU read voltage to what was actually being sent to the ECU.

Cheers
Leon

ps - I've also just realised i've not uploaded the most recent cal!!! I know i did make some changes to the sensors based off the startup cals.

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

Input values in the Fuel Difference Map are different then the Staged flow ratio number. The Staged Flow Ratio number lets the ECU know what the balance of the injectors are. In the Fuel Diff map you define how you want to use the balance. You DIff maps looks ok but your ratio number needs to be set. Because your injectors are the same, the staged flow ratio number will be 50%. If you change your injectors please do AEM's calculator.

In the map that I looked at from the site here Coil dwell was not correct(FD3s), Air temp was not correct, Coolant temp was not correct and Vehicle speed was not correct. You may have changed them but from what I have in front of me they wern't.

EB Turbo

Leonh

If 0 is wrong for staged flow I'm a little shocked as I could have sworn I set that right before I first cranked the new engine...

I'm not going to be at the car now till at least Monday but you've put doubt into my mind now, I'm going to go over all the sensors etc and ensure they are all right before I run it again. I can see now the coil Dwell is defo wrong

Are we sure about the flow ratio though, just looked at the AEM forums

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

Yes, The Staged Flow Ratio needs to be set for the staged injection to work properly.

EB Turbo

Leonh

oh boy, oh boy its been too long! I've not had chance to touch the Mazda in far too long Finally got time to play with the old girl today and pick up hopefully where I left off.

EB Turbo, I'm sorry for how long it took me to respond. I don't want to seem rude I really do appreciate feedback and guidance from people in the know.

From the logs I can see I'm getting a 50% split on the fuel injectors with the staged flow set at 0. Should I be aiming for a 50% split between the two banks of 800's or should I be giving more bias to the secondary bank?

Leon

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

No problem. You are correct on the staged flow number needing to be "0". The Fuel diff map needs to be "50". Usually with smaller injectors I like to use as much injector as possible. You should keep the balance at 50.

EB Turbo

Leonh

Thanks for the Input, Im sure I'll have some questions on things like VSS that are misbehaving but Im going to try work these out

cone_crushr

iTrader: (18)

I'd like to clarify that your suggestion of a bias between the primary/secondary fuel flow split is correct. Basically, your fuel split should reflect the air flow split to assure that the AFR in each runner is equivalent. Since the primary/secondary ports area ratio is approximately 40/60, your fuel should have a similar bias. Note that this explains why the secondary fuel injectors on an FD are larger than the primaries.

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

In his case changing fuel diff to give the secondaries more fuel will only reduce his maximum fuel capacity to close to stock levels. With stock or slightly larger than stock injectors you need to optimize flow. If he were running small primary injectors with large 1680/2225cc secondaries the fuel diff would definitely favor the secondary ports. For a few reasons.

EB Turbo

cone_crushr

iTrader: (18)

My original point remains valid: fuel flow split between primary and secondaries should match airflow
- period. The laws of physics have not yet been repealed, despite the efforts of well funded lobbyists.

This fact implies that you should consider increasing your secondary injector size as EB Turbo hinted or your efforts to "upgrade' your fuel system by changing only the primary injectors is pointless. If for whatever reason you decide to leave the injectors as is, I'd suggest that leaning-out the secondary AFR is a misguided solution for "optimizing flow" (i.e. dealing with imbalanced injector sizing).

It's best to understand the basics before modifying a finicky beast like a RX7. Carry on and good luck.

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

He wouldn't lean out the secondaries he would lean out the primaries. What is he gonna loose by running the primaries with roughly 30% more fuel by port volume?

EB Turbo

rexset

well here is mine,

I have solid idle , but is very hard to start it when is cool.


Ignition timing just to work well for me with my good old T04E , now I have change it for a GT35R HTA , so i don't know how it will affect in my timing setup to be safe, im quite worry about that

Here is a video of my idle that i made yesterday



I attached y cal file too

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

This cal needs a lot of help.

Your O2 gain is really high. If you have a wideband hooked up to the ecu it is most likely not done correctly.

Crank injector time table needs work

Start extra temp, Start extra decay, Ign v start time, and initial crank pulse need work. Your starting will get a lot better if you get those tables correct.

warmup enrich table needs work

from the looks of your idle % and idle target table there may be a lot of improvements there. The idle and advanced idle options are pretty good.

Your fuel map may need some help. Why are you 1/3 boost comped? You will be able to fix a lot of tuning issues and it will be a lot easier to tune if you switched to a full boost comp map.

What size injectors are you running? they are either the same size or you need to fill in the staged flow ratio number.

Your timing map needs a lot of work. I would be a little concerned. what type of fuel are you able to run?

Your coil dwell settings are not set for FD coils. They are actually the default settings for the Series I.

your boost control stuff is really weird. It looks like someone wanted to do boost target comp tuning but the range of the targets and the allowable control of the target table don't really work well. I would recommend turning off the boost target comp tables and spending more time with the base duty table to stabilize the boost.

If you are using a stock FD MAP sensor, Air temp and coolant temp sensor, all of the settings for those sensors are incorrect. You need to go into the wizard and set all of the correct sensor wizards for FD RX-7.

I hope this is not too overwhelming. Just look at it this way, You car can only get a lot better from here. Let me know if you have any questions regarding any of the things mentioned above.

EB Turbo

rexset

Thanks!!!

I will start working on it tomorrow
I try to cal the o2 sensor but didnt know why it only get to 3.8 volts at 19.9 af ratio
I will try to change the ground soon
It is the first AEM wide band the 30-4111 , probably thats the peoblem too.
I fix the air temperature sensor cal today
The map sensor if i use the wizard it shows 1.2lb when the car is not running, dont know if it affect but i live at a 1000 feets of altitud.
I will check the coolant temp sensor cal tomorrow also

What do you mean that the dwell is not st for an FD coil? How do i change it?
I zero it the trigger long time ago to be sure that the ing retard was the real one
Im running 4 850cc injectors in deed
And 4 10 spark plugs on leading and traling
Im not using the boost control for now
I will use it in a couple of weeks thou
I can get only 93 octanes here its a shame cause its said 97 but it is 93

Thanks for your help EB Turbo!!

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

First you should power the power the gauge to the same spot as the ecu. This will make the voltage drop as low as possible. Next set the O2 gain to 1.0. Go to sensors > O2 sensor > wizard and selest your 30-4111 controller. Now take a multimeter and verrify what the voltage is coming out of the uego controller. You will match the output voltage to the lambda ratio via the 0-5v scale. Ooen the calibration graph. Select the whole graph and offset the graph to match the displayed lambda ratio via the voltage coming out of the uego controller. This is the most accurate way to calibrate your O2 sensor.

Go to the map sensor wizard through the sensors options. And select the map sensor you are using.


Its like ignition > coil dwell settings> coil dwell wizard. Then select FD coils.

No problem. Feel free to ask as many questions as you may have.

EB Turbo

rexset

Thanks EB Turbo!!

Well the problem is that if i choose the fd map sensor the reading is not accurate
I changue the wiring of the hole car and the engine and it was the same even i try to change the sensor but it did not change
So i dont know if i should work with a 1.2 lb reading when the car is no running?

What do you think is so wrong on mi timming?

rexset

Do i need to zeroing the trigger again?

EB Turbo

iTrader: (1)

If you are using the stock FD MAP sensors you should use the map sensor wizard for thar sensor. It may be normal to see a rea. ng when the engine is off to be off slightly. Especially if you are high up in elevation.

Your timing map could be smoothed out some. I do not have your map in front of me so I cannot make specific recommendations. How did you check the timing? Because the onlt timing mark is -20*, you need to set leading timing to -5 and trailing timing to -15. You need to put the timing light on trailing #1.

EB Turbo

rexset

I follow that prosesure
Or problably 0 and a split of 20
Yep i will change that tommorow , today i spend the hole day fitting a new downpipe for the gt35r hta
Mi goal is to boost no more than 15 psi but with 1680cc ingectors and reach 400whp i dont want to blow my engina at 170mph
For now just 13 psi
I need to be extra carefull with the ignition timming cause we use the car for top speed
Do you think that i shold zeroing the trigger again if I change the coil dwell setup?
I will work on the Cal tonight and i will upload it later
I really appreciate your help!!
Thanks!!

rexset

o here we go

rexset

Ok its starts wonderfull and runs smoth , but i need to rise the warm up idle to 2000rpms cause its stalls
I will try to zeroing the trigger later but is looks ok
I notice that at idle it runs leaner , the air fuel ratio just to be 12,3 -13 now is 13,8 -14
Can it be the difference in the coils setup?