I just wired the sensor #2 where is said that is should be wired into the ECU Pin # 1F , but it show me nothing if i datalog it
Knock sensor #1 works perfect
I have make some research with no positive results
Where can I activate it?

 

What channels are you logging? You should see data on the Knock#2 Raw channel. You will need to define which coils are effected by which knock sensor. This is done under the Options > Coil. You will then scroll through each coil and select wither Knock #1 or Knock #2. If you are still having issues you may want to switch Pins 3M and 1F. After you switch them you will look for data on either channel. This will help you determine if it is a sensor/wiring problem or an ECU/ Setup problem.

EB Turbo

 

How do i define it when i have 3 coils?

I mean i can select the independiant but i cant with the wastespark one

 

Correct. The OEM knock sensor was designed to pick up knock from both rotors. You can have only Knock #1 make corrections to the car and just use Knock #2 for data logging purposes. If you were to split the leading coil and run 4 individual coils you can assign L1/T1 to knock #1 and L2/T2 to Knock #2. You also need to take into consideration that when the leading timing changes so does the trailing.

EB Turbo

 

It seems like direct fire its the way to go in the near future

Yep i will start with the datalogging and check if it works
For now i have a small readings from sensor 1 and baerly non from sensor 2 , but i will test it better later today
Thanks for your help again!!!

 

Nope it reads only sensor 1

And is a ecu problem i invert the pins and stills read only knock 1
I have sent the ECU 3 times to AEM to solve similar problems

 

Just notice that i dont have vehicule speed too

Do you have the same problem?

 

I have not tried my knock #2 channel but I do know my VSS works. There were a lot of mods to the 30-1800 over the course of its existence. When was the last time it was sent in? You may just want to upgrade to a Series II ECU.

EB Turbo

 

More or less 4 years ago

Its the cal compatible with the series 2?

 

I don't know if there have been any updates since then. What color is your ecu? and the serial number? The series II comes with a good base map. If you provide me with your current calibration I will convert it to the Series II file for you.

EB Turbo

 

Mine is grey aluminun

Its the firts one , but they uptdate it probably 4 years ago
I found lots of problems with it , they solve (at AEM) moust of them but there is still some that i have notice along with my car getting build.

To be fair i can live without the VSS and the knock sensor 2 , but for sure i will update it in the near future for the series 2
Witch are the advantages of the new one?
Sorry for the silly question but does everything works on the series 2?

 

I had a very similar problem and contacted aem numerous times and we found that the knock 2 pin input pin location wasn't correct. I'm at work now but will check my notes when I get home to see if I wrote it down.

 

Excellent!!

That will be grate!!!

 

Any info on this yet? I have a secound knock sensor pinned to the location specified in the AEM instructions and would like to know if I need to change this.

 

Dual knock on a Series I especially with no windowing feature is not very common. Have you tried calling AEM?

EB Turbo

 

I've looked everywhere through all of my aem notes and couldn't find anything as to what the correct knock 2 pin is suppose to be. Unfortunately the car I did this on is 4 hours away and the owner isn't capable of tracking the wire down with a volt meter. However I'm confident that if you give aem a call and tell them the problem your having they can lead you In the correct direction. When I found this problem they actually told me they were in the process of correcting the pin out diagram as they spoke, and this was a couple years ago. Good luck

 

Thanks for the info guys. I finally received my Series 1 back from repair and had much better luck on the dyno.

The Knock 2 as specified in the documentation is definitely wrong. Someone at AEM is trying to determine the actual pin for me. Funny thing is even though we are getting a reading form Knock 1, it is very low and barely shows any activity. I know I am on E85 but the Power FC knock activity was very apparent.

Is there a average knock voltage that I may compare my knock activity to?

 

The stock 30-1800 cal has a knock sensor cal that goes to almost 3v. Almost all of the cars I have tuned work well below 1v. You will need to set your knock sensor cal table based on the data you will log. If you drive with light load up to redline you will have a good indication of the knock voltage threshold. some harder pulls with no knock will confirm your knock cal table.

EB Turbo

 

Yeah I was having the same problem with mine. Just like eb said you'll have to recalibrate that to fully utilize the knock control of the aem. On my own car I actually traded out the factory sensor for a 5 volt knock sensor from another car and have had a little better luck. When I set it up I had one factory knock sensor and one other and would do logs with both at the same time to find the comparisons for what knock noise was exceptable and what wasn't.

 

Thanks guys! This will definitely help. Which knock sensor did you use?

 

Factory Mitsubishi evolution knock sensors. It might be worth checking out the rx8 ones I'm not sure what there voltage scale is.

 

Well I finally found the correct pin and it works. On any Series 1 box that has been updated Knock 2 is pin 1D. The original box more then likely is what is in the documentation which is pin 1F.

 

1D is what the 30-1800 notes call the LS10/ check engine light. This is really weird that this is what one of the update changes.

EB Turbo