trying to remove but can't, need help on removing flywheel
the nut won't loosen
any help

 

If you have access to air tools, use an impact and a 54mm, or 2 1/8 socket.

What methods have you tried so far?

 

were using a 54mm but not a socket
it's more like a welded 54mm to a solid steel bar
and were try so much that we started using the jack to push the welded socket

 

Sounds like the racing beat tool.

Just put more force into it. Hit it with a hammer, etc it will come off. Also, applying heat with a torch for a while helps.

 

Crude: hit the handle of your tool with a large chunk of wood.

 

just to make sure what way is to remove the flywheel

 

ya i just rebuilt my engine so i went thru the same process. the only way you can get that nut off is with a 2 1/8 inch socket on an impact hammer bcecause the torque specs on the nut according to mazda are 290 to 360 ft-lbs. one other possible way is to sticka 5 or 6 foot pipe on the end of ur 54mm wrench thing and turn with your force on the very end of the pipe, but i wouldnt suggest it. the socket and air hammer is so easy, comes off in seconds with em

 

remember your fly is on there with no less the 310ftlbs of torque. I have heard of people have troubles gettin fly wheels off while ussing 10 foot steel piping for leverage. do what white 87 said to do and spray some peneatrant fluid on there but ber sure there is no open flame when you spray the fluid

 

what way is to loosen the nut
clockwise
or
counter clockwise

 

Just like any other right hand threaded nut or bolt. Counter clockwise.

 

S*** I still can't get it out

 

Get someone to brace the engine, and jump on the end of the bar for the wrench, assuming you're using the racing beat one. Another method is the beat on it with a large rubber mallet or sledge hammer, or a piece or wood. The sharp impacts help loosen the nut more than just straight pressure like when lifting it with a jack.

 

I am guessing the engine is still in? do you have the flywheel stopper?

 

Don't be a *****. Get some angle iron and drill two holes in it. Bolt that to the flywheel, set the angle iron on the ground so when you go to turn the bolt COUNTER CLOCKWISE the angle iron will be forced to go into the ground. Get a long piece of pipe and a 1/2" ratchet on the 54mm bolt. Have friend hold the engine, and pull on that bitch with all you got.

I'm 5'4" 135 lbs and had no trouble torquing my buddy's FD flywheel on, and removing it. We had to do it twice cause we're ********. Go to carquest and buy some muscles.

If it's in the car put a 19mm socket on the end of the e-shaft where the main pulley is, and attach a long pipe to it and have a friend hold it/push the opposite direction while you do the same on the other end.

 

Propane torch works the best long as there's no flammable stuff around.

 

Dude let me tell you a story. When I bought my GD clutch pro multi-plate from HKS (clutch/pressure plate/flywheel) Kit, I was going through a non-turbo automatic 2 a turbo 5spd engine/transmission conversion. So that same day me and my mechanic, we had to take out the flywheel from both engines since I needed that rear counterweight, on the auto engine, to bolt-on to the new flywheel and install on the turbo engine.

The 2 1/8" nut on the first flywheel on the non-turbo engine came out like a charm. We heated it with the welding torch for 20 secs and used a 3/4" drive impact gun with the huge socket and it came out so easy. Then we hit the flywheel with a deadblow hammer, 3 hits, slides right off.

The second one on the turbo engine was a bitch. We were heating that nut and struguling to get that thing out for like 30 mins. Then my mechanic had an idea, he used an air compressed chisel and cracked that nut in half. And what precision he did not scrath the grouves on the e-shaft. Then the flywheel itself was being a bitch to. He hit it witht the hammer it would budge. I came up with the idea of using a gear puller and to my suprise it was just the right size to. We first pulled off the ring gear, and then attached it to the flywheel and with an air gun we pulled it out.

So this is just to say man. The flywheel nut and the flywheel itself can off easily with air tools and heat or you gotta use your head and use the right tools and work like an animal.

 

Oh I forgot to mention. After we reinstalled the flywheel we had to rent a huge torque wrench and torqued it to 350 ft/lbs. We could've torqued it to 700 ft/lbs if we wanted to.

<...He hit it with the hammer it wouldn't budge...>

 

using hand tools takes patience, and time - and for some, which sometimes includes me, can prove impossible. Air tools speed everything up, but I only ever suggest using air tools for removal - of any nut or bolt. When my buddy did his clutch in my garage we had to borrow an air compressor from my employer and he just used his cheap kragen impact wrench and slowely worked it off.

As for getting it back on to the right torque.. I am at a loss of words.

 

yes, but I pray no one ever does. just imagine the mess you'll be in

 

After spending hours alternately using a torch, penetrating oil, and a 4 foot breaker bar, this is what I ended up doing and it worked like a charm.

Put the engine on the hoist, put the passenger side motor mount leg back on, lower the chain so the engine rests on the ground, then put the leg of the hoist over the motor mount leg and jack it up until the chain is just tight, then put the socket and breaker bar on it and jump hard on the end of it. Spun loose on the first hop, and the hoist kept the engine from bouncing around or turning. And no, it didn't hurt the oilpan either.

 

Since this is one of the most often asked questions, I have just added it to the FAQ.

 

Bless you, great Moderator, you are as wise as you are hairy (just read your excellent rebuild writeup)

 

load up the engine into a truck and find a local shop with an impact gun that will take the nut off for you, if you don't mind the drive you can come by my shop and i can take it off for you.

 

Well, this might help for the FAQ's. Aaron might think this following text is familiar...

It's easy to do if you have the equipment. Remove the exhaust, driveshaft and tranny. That's fairly easy.

To remove the flywheel nut, you will need either a LARGE breaker bar (which doesn't work too well if the engine is still in the car) or an impact gun (only way to go). That nut is likely torqued to 300+ ft LBS, and is 54MM / 2 1/8. So you need to find the special socket.

Then to remove the flywheel, you can normally just pry it while someone gives it a whack with a hammer (use wood to protect flywheel surface). Assembly is reverse of the removal, making sure to torque the flywheel nut to 300 ft-LBs.

Installation - Impact gun is the only way to work with that nut. In my mind, there is no other option. You'll never damage the bearings by tightening the nut. Exact torque isn't even that important, as long as you can get it over 250 Ft-lbs or thereabouts.

 

impact wrench only, i tried everything else. i bought my socket from toyota cheap as it is the same on their toyota 4x4 hubs