well there is other alternatives but none are exactly cheap where loading the engine up and taking it to a shop is usually free.

sometimes for real tight nuts that the impact fails to get off i use my number stamps(black hardened steel stamps) and put them through the 2 puller holes in the flywheel and lock them against the rear stat geat mount bolts so the flywheel can't turn and have another friend in front with a breaker bar to help keep the e-shaft from rotating. heat the nut with a propane torch for about 3-4 minutes then with a 2 1/8" socket, a long 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 2 foot pipe for extra leverage lean into the nut, it should come off relatively easily now. same procedure for the front e-shaft nut, i have to do it with almost all third gen engines since the front bolt has tightened itself to almost 400+ft/lbs.

 

Truck shops are wonderful for this. 1" drive, 1000+ ft/lb impact wrenches. If you've got the tools to dismantle a semi tractor, a 13B flywheel nut is trivial.

I've had to remove 3 flywheel nuts so far. All three have been trivial projects with the engine in the back of another vehicle (truck for my rebuild, Subaru wagon for the other two I pulled apart), go to a shop with the right tools, zip the flywheel nut off, front pulley nut off, and a 5# sledge used gently does wonders on the flywheel.

10 minutes and some amused shop guys later ("That thing actually propels a vehicle?"), I'm on my way with all the "hard" stuff done.

-=Russ=-