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Yup, another overheating thread.

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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 10:41 AM
  #1  
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Yup, another overheating thread.

Okay, my cooling system is 100% stock, and I haven't had my car for long but have noticed that the temperature gauge wants to creep up. I always just hit the AC button making the fans turn on and it keeps it fine, but I want to fix the problem.

I have the factory service manual for the car and tested all the relays, they were all fine, I checked the cooling fan fuse, that was fine.

I checked the cooling fan motors different speeds and the only one that worked is the high speed. So this tells me that the fan motors themselves are bad. Now my other question is, if the high speed motor worked, wouldn't that make the fans turn on high speed before it gets too hot? I am guessing that the thermosensor is bad also?

Are there some upgraded fans that I should install or will the stock fans in working condition be sufficient enough?

Thanks
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 11:01 AM
  #2  
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The stock fans are better than most aftermarket units. what i would you in your case is.
1. get a FC thermoswitch-unless u got power fc
2. replace thermostat
3. replace antifreeze and burp cooling system
4. get a gauge to monitor temps
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 11:16 AM
  #3  
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Do you have an aftermarket temp gauge? If not, now is a good time to grab one. Here's a post on the stock fans/relays:

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...53&postcount=2

You might also test the relays after heating them up. Sometimes you might have components that work fine when cold, but fail when operating in the heat of the underhood temps.
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 11:31 AM
  #4  
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From: Richmond, Va.
Originally Posted by jettin123
Okay, my cooling system is 100% stock, and I haven't had my car for long but have noticed that the temperature gauge wants to creep up. I always just hit the AC button making the fans turn on and it keeps it fine, but I want to fix the problem.

I have the factory service manual for the car and tested all the relays, they were all fine, I checked the cooling fan fuse, that was fine.

I checked the cooling fan motors different speeds and the only one that worked is the high speed. So this tells me that the fan motors themselves are bad. Now my other question is, if the high speed motor worked, wouldn't that make the fans turn on high speed before it gets too hot? I am guessing that the thermosensor is bad also?

Are there some upgraded fans that I should install or will the stock fans in working condition be sufficient enough?

Thanks

I wouldn't count the fans out prematurely. There is a test procedure in the FSM for them. If one speed is working, I would be more inclined to think fan control was the problem rather than the motor.

Also, make sure you use distilled water in the cooling system. These blocks are sensitive to corrosion.
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 02:50 PM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by jettin123
Okay, my cooling system is 100% stock.......
The stock radiator was pretty efficient IMO, but slightly undersized. The endtanks are plastic and prone to cracking with age and heat. Check yours. Most generally replace them with all-metal units and you can search for more info on those as well.

FWIW I check my radiator once a year or so and always end up find some debris, bugs and cotton stuck between it and the condensor. Easy to check and cheap to fix if the previous owner wasn't too conscientious.
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 08:01 PM
  #6  
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yea how do you know your temps are going up without a gauge? or car is overheating?

Also guys it would be great to chime in with "normal/ideal" temps vs "hot/overheating" temps
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 09:31 PM
  #7  
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From: San Jose
Here is the solution any potential for overheating: get evans NPG+. I lost my first motor in 1995 due to overheating. 2nd motor in 2003 due to overheating. Switched over to evans NPG+ in 2004. It's now six years and no more overheating (although I did lose a motor due to knocking under boost but that's fixed with water injection on my fourth motor). Adding a second oil cooler helped immensely to the tune of 10 deg. C drop in hot weather and under load. Never replaced it either and it's still 0.018 volt (i.e., no cathodic reaction between the coolant and the engine block). water pump don't wear either because it's viscous for cavitation damage.
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