I was trying to get a few questions anwsered from people who have and used boost controllers. I have RB dual tips, DP, and I just installed my Blitz twin intake and now I am reading about 12 psi when I really get on it. I need to buy a boost controller so I am trying to get some first hand knowledge before I buy.Listed below are a few things that I would like to find out about the different boost controllers, sort of guidelines for anwsers.

Manual, or electronic?(which did you purchase)
User friendly?(meaning how easy is it to control and set a perfect psi)
Cost?
Reliability?
How hard was the install?
Does it maintain and hold a steady psi?

thanks for the help,
-josh

P.S. I searched, but wanted to get anwers to my questions above.

 

I've owned a pile of boost controllers in the past. Here's the deal.

Manuals are great for saving money, but they can be harder to initially set up. Make a run, pull over, pop hood, twist ****, repeat. They do work well, though, as far as the end result is concerned. I also don't like the fact that you can't easily "turn off" a manual controller. In poor weather, I will typically switch the controller off for better traction if I get in it too much.

Electronic controllers cost more, but are more flexible and can be easier to set up. Initial installation is of course more difficult, since you have to run wiring into the cockpit, hook up power, ground, etc, mount the controller, you get the idea. But, you have the flexibility of being able to switch it off, switch between different boost settings, and, with some controllers, the ability to REALLY tune in the boost curve, by RPM, speed, etc.

But, some of the more advanced electronic boost controllers (AVC-R, Profec E-01, Blitz SBC-ID) can be harder to dial in and take more initial setup work.

It really goes back to what your price range is, what your comfort level is (turn a ****, or program a computer), what you want from it, etc. There's not many *bad* options, you just have to figure out what you're most comfortable with.

Dale

 

Greddy Profec B Spec 1 is arguable one of the better EBCs for an FD running twins.

I've used it on 2 FDs and they work very well. Very easy to install and adjust to hold the boost I wanted. Worked well regardless of temperature changes which can be pretty drastic here in NY. You can still find them here and on ebay for ~$150 used.

I don't like manual boost controllers b/c they do not respond as quickly as an EBC. When I used one on my old Turbo II, I would have to constantly adjust them to hold the desired boost as the weather temps changed.

 

This is some great information. Thank you!! Please keep it coming.

-josh

 

I have a profec spec II. I love it.

It holds boost just fine. Easy to tune as long as you understand what each funtion does. It also has nice little features: accurate real time boost, warning level, peak last boost, and highest boost reached. Reads in both Kpa and psi.

it's about $300 new.

 

I have the "Damian-style" ball/spring MBC's on both PC & WG. They seem to hold the boost values very well despite weather changes.

As a side note, the needle-valve MBC's are just variable pills, and since they still rely on the ECU to control (open loop), weather changes, etc., make the boost vary.

My mods are in my signature.

 

I've chosen to drill out the restrictor pill to reduce boost. With the very little time I've put into it, it's proven to be time consuming and probably not worth the overall simplicity in the end.

Dave

 

Greddy Profec-B (original "spec")

I've been running it for 3 years. It's been reliable, although, there have been about 3 occasions when the solenoid did not kick in properly and allowed a boost spike up to 15 psi or so (that's why you set the redundant fuel-cut on the PFC!). It allows good spool and is easy to set up. I didn't actually install it myself, but it's a pretty straight-forward install.

Bottom line, it's cheap, reliable, unobtrusive, and easy to setup. Highly recommended.

 

I went with EBC. I was going to get the Greddy EBC but found an Apexi AVC-R for a very reasonable price. It has a few more features than the Greddy but, is also a bit more of a pain to setup, way more parameters than the Greddy just turn a **** to dial it in. I like being able to log a run with different paramaters to watch, and being able to control it from the cabin. Greddy's gets my vote for being user friendly and works quite well. A good friend of mine has the Greddy so I'm familliar with it's capabilities. The AVC-R is packed with features and has deffernt modes for controlling desired boost, both control boost very well, and both can take out your motor if tuned impropperly. Jack

 

Hmm...

So go either Profect B Spec II or AVC-R?

Seems to be the general concensus here.

I do kind of like the idea of advanced tunability, logging, etc on the AVC-R.

I have an S-AFC II in my car, and although I know it's pointless, I figured out every aspect of it within about 2 days of tinkering a few minutes here and there, so the complication aspect, doesn't bother me.

Installation...eh, I don't care. I don't mind spending some time under the hood my baby, so if the AVC-R is harder to install, I care not. I like taking my time, and learning more about my baby each time I work on her.

*nuzzles his steering wheel*

lol

 

If you just bought a PFC then it will handle controlling boost just fine using the stock solenoids. As far as I know you won't need anything else. Check the ECU forum for concensus on this mater. Jack

 

heres a link to the bc I just got: http://www.turboxs.com/shop_prod.php?what_category=1

 

If you just bought a PFC then it will handle controlling boost just fine using the stock solenoids. As far as I know you won't need anything else. Check the ECU forum for concensus on this mater. Jack

 

I don't own a PFC.

I only have intake, dp, stock cat, then catback. Non-sequential too.

 

damian had a great thread on a very choice manual boost control setup that i am currently running. i got the remote system and mounted it by my right knee on the consol. precontrol(useless and dangerous) and wastegate.

 

bingo

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+boost+control

 

This is some good ****. I didnt find this one when I seached earlier. Would you sugest using this?

thanks a lot,
-josh

 

That's the setup I use - holds boost perfectly. Plug the hoses from the actuators to the solenoids when you do it.

 

If you are a "Cheap Bastard", like me install a "Home Depot" needle valve controller. Cost is less than $10. Relatively easy to install. Works very well. Very dependable as there are no moving parts or electronics. Fairly easy to adjust. Once it is set, you don't have to worry about it .

http://www.robrobinette.com/boost_controller.htm

Do not install a needle valve as a prespool controller. It makes adjustment nearly impossible, and you don't need it.

 

Knightsports EBSIII, easy to install and controls the stock system very well. I normally shut it off to run low boost.

Now, if your stock turbo control system is faulty, then this won't work well.

 

with my single turbo setup i noticed about a 400rpm increase in spool up from a basic bleeder valve to a bleeder valve which incorporated a ball and spring for spool up.

 

That is a really strange statement....much like Bilbo Baggins': I know less than half of you half as well as I should like, and I like less than half of you half as well as you deserve."

So....are you saying it ISN'T worth messing with larger restrictor pill(s), either buying bigger ones or drilling them out bigger?

This is a subject I am going to be investigating much, much more very soon, as I need to do something to control my boost spikes.

So far it looks like the Greddy Profec B Spec II is the ticket..........? I like the Hallman MBC setup Damian was so good to detail, but one is going to spend nearly as much for those as what you can get the Greddy unit for.

 

For about the same price you end up with the kit like mine with the ***** in the car. Its everything but digital and very hands on.

 

Yes, I suppose it reads strangely.

The simplicity of changing pills is why I like it. But in practice you've got to pull the airbox, drill the pill or change it, reinstall, test again... and I found it wasn't making noticeable change to my boost. So I spent a couple hours doing this and quit.

I haven't touched it since then because 1) my boost gauge is reading a little off and I first want to get a more accurate one 2) I'm putting on a slightly different muffler soon and maybe also a restrictor plate with it. So the stock pills may work ok again.

While I believe the pill stuff may work, it might be more feasible for someone with an aftermarket intake that makes access to the pills easier.

Dave

 

KnightSports EBSIII is very easy to install, setup and use, and works perfectly with the stock turbo control system. I shut mine off for regular driving and turn it on sometimes to get the extra power.