I do not have the know how, though o could certainly try to do my own rebuild.

Would you recommend me visiting the shop consistently during the rebuild? Requesting pictures?

 

Honestly you should be ok with just an appropriately sized cone filter for the intake.

Yeah, I've heard VERY good things about the AEM Infinity. I have a buddy that is a dealer for Haltec (I believe), Life Racing, and AEM. He's got the AEM in his LS Miata and its incredible.

The water vs meth vs water/meth is a separate debate. Straight meth (in smaller amounts) powerful but a recipe for trouble, straight water is safe, but not as powerful, water/meth (50/50 by weight) is the best of both worlds.

I don't know diddly about shops on the wrong coast.. I've got a friend who used to run a shop in 29 Palms, but he's since moved to the east coast.

Historically walbro has had a bad reputation with rotaries, I've never owne one but would personally steer clear just because (right or wrong, just my preference)

I'm partial to FFE (FullFunctionEng) because I've met them several times at DGRR, but I believe CJ Motorsports also makes a very nice rail.

Depending on your ECU I would just get a trusted shop to build one from scratch.. I'm having one build for my LR F88RS ecu and its probably gunna be about $800-$900 in consumables, plus labor. I'm comfy with spending around $2,000 on mine. BUT.. it is also going to be full on badassery with high end everything.

Rywire makes generic harnesses for like $600-$700, they use the buzzword "milspec" but that's a load of crap (imo), as I've already priced out a proper "milspec" harness

Yeah, the reason I suggested both is that the difference in technology and performance between the older ev1 factory injectors, and the newer ev14 injectors is pretty significant.

Honestly I think you'd be ok with the stock port sizes. From what I've seen, porting on a turbo charged engine mostly just serves to push your power curve to the right, in exchange for a slightly higher peak number. From what you say it seems you may be more interested in that midrange power and torque curve though

 

That's a "fun" balance to maintain... if you're in there all the time it can be taken as pestering and will not help. But if you're never there you never know...

Stacking the engine itself only takes a couple hours. The prep work (cleaning parts, setting clearances, etc) takes a while (it took us about 12 hours with a brand new (clean) motor and ALL new seals, that was with two guys setting clearances) and you don't necessarily need to be there for that.

Maybe just talk to the shop to figure out when they will stack your engine and let them know you want to show up (with a couple pizzas and some good beer) to watch it get put together.


I'm pretty skeptical now though, after my experiences... I only trust 3 shops/people to work on my car without my being concerned

 

Per my boost gauge. At idle 900rpm, I'm pulling about 350-370mmhg

 

When it starts having hot start issues, worry about it. Until then just drive it and start saving.

If it hot starts fine, I wouldnt fret.

Jason

 

I've looked at this Video a number of times to do a side by side comparison of a Rotary Driven FD and a NON-Rotary Driven FD.

I appreciate both these cars. I've read a number of times in your posts the HP Numbers that you're looking for.

While I am not given any advice or helping your decision making - I think the Video shows nicely what this car is capable of doing - With different engines.

 

All this video did was remind me what a rotary and v8 sound like..lol

 

First guy did it in roughly 28 seconds, second guy in roughly 37 seconds.

Question isn't "what kind of engine do you want?", it is "what kind of driver do you want to be?".

Personally, I'll take the first driver. He's optimizing a quantifiable metric.