streetdreamzny

iTrader: (6)

my car idle's between 1200 + 2500 rpms when warm and between 2500 + 4000 when cold. when first started the car revs to 4500 rpms. i've been trying to fix it for 6 months searched tons of threads and tried almost every suggestion. heres what i have tried so far: removed isc and checked with ohm meter was within factory specs, cleaned with brake cleaner ,applied 12v to make sure it moved. re-installed with no difference. than tried leaving ics unplugged still no difference. than i checked tps voltage on the power fc all within specs, checked pcv valve it was good , installed new plugs - no difference. i checked for vac. leaks by spraying carb cleaner no change in idle. i adjusted the air blead screw and now have it all the way closed and no difference, i tried swaping the power fc with stock ecu but the car would not run,
at idle injector duty goes from 0% - 14% and fuel presure flucuates between 60 -65
i have a ported motor,power fc,single turbo,all emissions removed , aws, doulble throttle, throttle body coolant bypassed car has stock 550 primary and 1600cc secondary injectors (without resistors installed) also i seen 0.03 boost when car is off but don't have a data logit to change scale + offset but dont think this affects idle
Any help would be greatly apprecitated as the idle is driving me crazy. thank you

ttmott

iTrader: (1)

Air problem.....

My tuning technique that works very well for me:

1. Remove throttle body
2. Remove wax rod actuator (1 screw then pull from water housing)
3. Loosen and back out secondary throttle plate adjustment screw until throttle plates are fully closed in throttle bores.
4. Loosten and back out primary throttle plate adjusting screw until plate is fully closed to throttle bore
5. Adjust primary throttle plate adjustment screw until the primary throttle plate is not sticking in the bore (the idea is to have the throttle plate as closed as possible but not sticking in the bore).
6. Adjust the secondary throttle plate screw the same way as the secondary.
7. Reinstall the was rod in the water housing.
8. Back out the cold idle speed screw completely from the was rod cam.
9. Adjust the cold idle roller positioning screw so the roller is just at the cam heel.
10. Readjust the cold idle speed screw so it indicates at the appropriate temperature location you are at ( I use the "C" position which is next one from the heel)
11. Adjust the TPS to spec.
12. Fully close the air bleed screw
13. Reinstall the throttle body with new gasket.
14. Install cruise control cable ensuring adequate slack.
15. Install throttle cable ensuring plenty of slace
16. Warm up engine until wax rod retracts cam.
17. You may need to revisit the three wax rod adjustment screws when engine warm to make sure the roller is just off of the cam heel when warm.
18. Adjust the throttle cable to spec now the cold idle cam is off.
19. If idling too low allow some air to bleed by adjusting the air bleed screw under the throttle body

If this doesn't work you have another air leak somewhere else.