3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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A Working Man's Tools

Old Feb 9, 2002 | 05:19 PM
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A Working Man's Tools

Well we all know that it's a given that we shoudl work on our own cars, but since I'm so new to that area (it's been awhile), I was just wondering exactly what tools are needed to maintain a rotary engine in general. A kit would be cool too, but just tools in general no matter what their purpose (multi or single) as long as they are needed. TIA.
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Old Feb 9, 2002 | 05:28 PM
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10mm wrench/socket , I swear that you could take half the motor apart with the both of these...


But a good start would be a metric socket set and a metric wrench set...
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Old Feb 9, 2002 | 05:33 PM
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Hmm not too shabby...not too shabby at all. I had no idea that that is all it takes to rip the entire motor apart. I'm astonished! Okay with tools set aside, well engine tools anyways, what other things do you need to help make the job easier?

You guys work with your bare hands eh?
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Old Feb 9, 2002 | 05:43 PM
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Metric open ratchet, expensive but works like a miracle in tight spaces, and there are a lot of tight spaces.
Cheater bar/pipe, torque wrench, air tools.
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Old Feb 9, 2002 | 05:46 PM
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Careful... I said you could probably take MOST of the motor apart with this stuff, which I mean taking the intake, airbox, intercooler, and probably turbos, etc off with these tools. I found most of the bolts in the engine bay to be 10 mm or 11 mm, but mostly 10mm. I guess they made it a little easy on us when taking it apart you don't have to run and get a different size wrench for every bolt. But being a japanese car, there are alot of metirc bolts on it, so I would suggest you get a whole set of metric sockets and wrenchs, as for other tools, others can probably give you more info on specific tools for specific jobs. Although I don't think you need anything "special" when working on a 3rd gen. You might want to get a torque wrench and maybe a breaker bar too, for bigger jobs.


Oh yeah get a set of "Mechanics" gloves too, or even just a box of latex gloves to help you stay clean. I suggest the "Mechanics" gloves though, because they resist heat a little. And you never know when you'll bump against something that's hot while working on your car.

Last edited by black99; Feb 9, 2002 at 05:49 PM.
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Old Feb 9, 2002 | 05:52 PM
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Thanks guys for the info! Totally informative! I totally "feel" what you mean about the mechanics gloves man . Very true.

Last edited by Silex; Feb 9, 2002 at 06:13 PM.
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Old Feb 9, 2002 | 10:12 PM
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Get a 1/4 inch 10MM deep and shallow socket, a socket wrench with 5 degrees engagement, and a set of 1/4 inch extensions. You would be surprised what you can R&R under the hood with just those tools. I have hundreds of tools filling over 3 rooling tool chests and filling 4 4X8 peg boards but if I narrowed it down to the ones I use most frequently I can fit them all in a backpack.
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Old Feb 9, 2002 | 10:14 PM
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Heheh nice nice. I think we have a winner folks! Now I just have to buy them hah.
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Old Feb 10, 2002 | 02:15 PM
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I am currently removing my motor. I have used the following tools:
10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets in 3/8 drive and 1/4" drive, 10mm wrench, extensions and swivels for the socket drives, small and large vice grips (for hose clamps), #2 Phillips and regular screwdriver, andPB Blaster penetrating oil. Last thing I will use is a 2 ton engine hoist ($150). That's about it.

Some suspension and larger components take 19mm and other "special tools", but any good mechanic can find ways around this with just standard shop tools. A good example is the power steering pump pulley. I forgot to crack the nut loose before removing the drive belt and they require a "Special Tool" to hold it. I just put the belt over the pulley, over the idler pulley and around the water pump. Rotated it until the belt bit into the pulley and voilla: The nut came off. No $400 special tool needed.

Tim
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