I just drop new motor in had some fuel burning problems then i changed the ecu no more smoke or fuel burning problem. Now i finally take it for a test drive then my car wont go over 3000 rpm on first gear. Car runs normaly when i drive slow and steady but when i try to mash down the gas pedal, it hits 3000 rpm then it starts to jump and it doesnt want to go past 3000 rpm. does any of yall out there think it might be that ecu i put in? by the way both ecus i tried are stock and both had different problems.

 

disconnect the battery and hold the brake down for about 1-2 minutes
reconnect the battery and take it for a drive

 

Holy ****! 1-2 min? If im not mistaken it only takes like 15 seconds to reset the codes...That is what your trying to do, right?

 

anybody had this problem before? i can use some pointers man

 

Have you pulled the engine codes yet? The ECU will tell you if it's not happy.

Sounds like you may have a bad connection to one or both of the secondary fuel injectors - they kick in at 3000 RPM. I believe you'll get a code if they're not plugged in.

Dale

 

Well, he would need to have a "check engine" warning before the ECU would give out any problem codes... and depending on the problem, they may or may not be stored codes.

 

the check engine light is on. what would cause a bad connection to the fuel injectors?

 

how do i get a problem code?

 

1. Could be MAP sensor related.
2. Could be secondary fuel injector related.
3. Could be TPS related
4. No offense, but if you don't know how to do basics like pull codes, etc, why are you dropping in your own motor?

 

BTW, are all the FDs OBD-I or were the 95 OBD-II?

 

rx7 was a hand me down barely getting in to cars so im a rookie. bro and dad are mechanics im just a rookie tryin to learn ****.

 

If you pull the codes and it shows nothing wrong, make sure your intercooler pipes and vaccum lines are connected and check for leaks. I had the same problem, and it was a leak on one of the intercooler pipes. Check everything rynberg said too, all those could possibly be the problem.

 

All FDs were OBD-I. Mazda stopped importing the FD in 1995 because all model years from 1996 on were required to be OBD-II compliant and Mazda could not afford to implement that on such a poor selling model.

 

Your car is in limp mode. This is caused by the ECU throwing a code. Disconnecting the battery and holding brake for about 10-15 seconds will clear any codes and should get it out of limp mode. However, since there is a code - run the diagnostic to find out what it is. Even if the check engine light isn't on, there can still be a code.

-Charlie

 

When you say new do you mean new/rebuilt or 2nd hand and new to your car. If its been rebuilt it may not be the best thing for it for you to "mash down the gas pedal"

 

I had exactly the same problem before and when i reset my computer..BINGO, it went back normal.

All you have to do is disconect the battery and press on the brakes for 3 times after that wait for 20 seconds and connect the battery back again. It should work as it happen with me.