Wiring Harness Tuck DIY: And does anyone need Raychem?
12-16-11, 01:37 PM
#1
Wiring Harness Tuck DIY: And does anyone need Raychem?
Hi all,
I'm going to be tucking my wiring harnesses, and figured I'd start a DIY. I'm still deleting things out of the front body harness, so no real pictures yet, but I'm starting this thread early for a reason.
Does anyone want to split a few spools of Raychem DR-25 with me (well actually the off-brand substitute for Raychem). I figure one needs about 25' of about 3 sizes (1/8", 3/8", 3/4") to do all the wiring in their engine bay. But you can't order less than 50 feet of each size.
I'd really like to use this stuff, it can withstand the harshest engine bay environments, but it's hard to justify buying so much of it.
This alternative to Raychem http://www.buyheatshrink.com/heatshr...t-shrink.htm#B, has the same mil spec classifications and properties, but is 1/4 of the cost of name brand Raychem. It's still crazy expensive, but somewhat affordable if you are going through the trouble of tucking your wiring harnesses.
Please PM me if you would like to split a few rolls.
Moderators, I wasn't really sure where this fits, but wanted to see if someone else was interested. I'll do a complete 3rd gen DIY when I actually get it, so hopefully that is good enough reason to keep this thread in this section, but please move it if you need to.
I'm going to be tucking my wiring harnesses, and figured I'd start a DIY. I'm still deleting things out of the front body harness, so no real pictures yet, but I'm starting this thread early for a reason.
Does anyone want to split a few spools of Raychem DR-25 with me (well actually the off-brand substitute for Raychem). I figure one needs about 25' of about 3 sizes (1/8", 3/8", 3/4") to do all the wiring in their engine bay. But you can't order less than 50 feet of each size.
I'd really like to use this stuff, it can withstand the harshest engine bay environments, but it's hard to justify buying so much of it.
This alternative to Raychem http://www.buyheatshrink.com/heatshr...t-shrink.htm#B, has the same mil spec classifications and properties, but is 1/4 of the cost of name brand Raychem. It's still crazy expensive, but somewhat affordable if you are going through the trouble of tucking your wiring harnesses.
Please PM me if you would like to split a few rolls.
Moderators, I wasn't really sure where this fits, but wanted to see if someone else was interested. I'll do a complete 3rd gen DIY when I actually get it, so hopefully that is good enough reason to keep this thread in this section, but please move it if you need to.
12-16-11, 03:27 PM
#4
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I'm interested in seeing this pan out as well. I was thinking of starting mine in a few weeks. I mainly just want to move the fuse boxes below the driver headlight bucket, not necessarily hide all of the wiring. Just sort of clean it up a bit.
My goodness is that heat shrink expensive! I planned to use solder heat shrink connectors and then a dual wall adhesive lined heat shrink over the connector. Granted the connectors are about $30 for a pack of 25 but I use them daily at work, and have yet to experience an electrical problem related back to the connector.
My goodness is that heat shrink expensive! I planned to use solder heat shrink connectors and then a dual wall adhesive lined heat shrink over the connector. Granted the connectors are about $30 for a pack of 25 but I use them daily at work, and have yet to experience an electrical problem related back to the connector.
12-16-11, 04:32 PM
#5
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EDIT: These are more are less what is supplied to us. They work beautifully. I don't do any wire joining without them.
http://www.amazon.com/Pico-2252GT-El.../dp/B00030CVM2
http://www.amazon.com/Pico-2252GT-El.../dp/B00030CVM2
12-16-11, 06:39 PM
#6
Cool, this is what I'm using for the actual butt joints:
Non Insulated Braised Seam Butt Connectors: http://order.waytekwire.com/products...%20Connectors/
Then I cover that with a 2 inch long piece of 4:1 shrinking dual wall adheasive lined shrink wrap. http://www.buyheatshrink.com/heatshr...o1adhesive.htm
This 4:1 stuff also works great for the actual plug conectors because it shrinks so much. For example, the alternator plug is about 1" square, so you can slip a bit of this over it, heat it up, it will melt to the connector, and also shrink down to the wire size, so all your plugs look really great and are sealed well:
Like this:
Not like this:
And yeah, the Raychem substitute is still expensive, but it will only be in the engine bay, and it will be worth it. On the inside of the car all be using normal heatshrink.
I've got 50' rolls of 1/4", 5/8", and 1" Raychem substitute on the way, so PM me if you want half of a roll. I'd like to get some 1/8" but you can't get that on less than a 100' roll, which is over $100, so I'd like to have someone else go in on it with me before I actually buy it.
Non Insulated Braised Seam Butt Connectors: http://order.waytekwire.com/products...%20Connectors/
Then I cover that with a 2 inch long piece of 4:1 shrinking dual wall adheasive lined shrink wrap. http://www.buyheatshrink.com/heatshr...o1adhesive.htm
This 4:1 stuff also works great for the actual plug conectors because it shrinks so much. For example, the alternator plug is about 1" square, so you can slip a bit of this over it, heat it up, it will melt to the connector, and also shrink down to the wire size, so all your plugs look really great and are sealed well:
Like this:
Not like this:
And yeah, the Raychem substitute is still expensive, but it will only be in the engine bay, and it will be worth it. On the inside of the car all be using normal heatshrink.
I've got 50' rolls of 1/4", 5/8", and 1" Raychem substitute on the way, so PM me if you want half of a roll. I'd like to get some 1/8" but you can't get that on less than a 100' roll, which is over $100, so I'd like to have someone else go in on it with me before I actually buy it.
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12-16-11, 08:56 PM
#9
Just shoot me a PM if you are interested, it's just easier than me reaching out to everythone that might be interested. Take a look at the cost on the website I posted, that is the cheapest it can be had for, I'm not looking to make money on it, I'd just like to cover my costs and get rid of the excess that I will never need.
I will have this in a few days
1/4"
5/8"
1"
And will order the 1/8" once someone tells me they want 50 feet of it (or 2 people that want 25'). That should be enough to do most anything.
Just PM with how many feet (15' minimum), and what diameter you'd like.
Thanks again for all the interest, I'll make sure the DIY lives up to the expectations.
I will have this in a few days
1/4"
5/8"
1"
And will order the 1/8" once someone tells me they want 50 feet of it (or 2 people that want 25'). That should be enough to do most anything.
Just PM with how many feet (15' minimum), and what diameter you'd like.
Thanks again for all the interest, I'll make sure the DIY lives up to the expectations.
12-19-11, 04:28 PM
#14
Ive been thinking of doing this for awhile now, looking forward to your writeup.
I want to jump on this but xmas shopping is a priority for me right now
Are you going to be sourcing new connectors and wiring or are you going to just re-use your old wiring+connectors and getting rid of stuff you are not using?
I want to jump on this but xmas shopping is a priority for me right now
Are you going to be sourcing new connectors and wiring or are you going to just re-use your old wiring+connectors and getting rid of stuff you are not using?
12-19-11, 06:25 PM
#16
Haha, yeah right man, the Smartwire if $1500.
Well there isn't much left that is stock, and I have a stand alone already, so I won't really be removing too many stock connectors. I already have aftermarket injector wiring, coil wiring, and crank sensor.
I'll be redoing all of that, and then converting a lot of ancillary items like the fans to be controlled by the ECU instead of being hardwired or wired with random relays all over the place like they are now.
I'll be redoing all of that, and then converting a lot of ancillary items like the fans to be controlled by the ECU instead of being hardwired or wired with random relays all over the place like they are now.
12-31-11, 08:33 AM
#19
I know this has stalled out a bit, but I'm just waiting on parts to arrive. Some other forum members have been kind enough to take some of the extra Raychem (offbrand substitute) off my hands.
It can be pretty difficult to find the right places to buy things like non-insulated crimp connectors, heat shrink, relay and fuse boxes, wire, etc... So I'll be listing all part numbers and places where I purchased everything.
So far its panning out like this:
-Heatshrink: buyheatshrink.com (you cannot get it cheaper anywhere else, and it is good quality)
-Wire: prowireusa.com (great prices for milspec wire, all types of color combos, other places usually have minimum quantities and then you end up with high expenses and way too much wire).
-Fuses/Relays/Terminals/Crimps/etc...: waytekwire.com (pretty low minimum quantities and good prices)
It can be pretty difficult to find the right places to buy things like non-insulated crimp connectors, heat shrink, relay and fuse boxes, wire, etc... So I'll be listing all part numbers and places where I purchased everything.
So far its panning out like this:
-Heatshrink: buyheatshrink.com (you cannot get it cheaper anywhere else, and it is good quality)
-Wire: prowireusa.com (great prices for milspec wire, all types of color combos, other places usually have minimum quantities and then you end up with high expenses and way too much wire).
-Fuses/Relays/Terminals/Crimps/etc...: waytekwire.com (pretty low minimum quantities and good prices)
01-27-12, 06:00 PM
#22
It's coming, still trying to find a decent relay/fuse block. I've bought a couple but not sure if I really want to use them. I'd love to find a fuse block that is bussed on the input, combined with each fuse leading to it's own relay. I'd like to find a box that has 10 fuses and relays combined. I may end up just having a fuse block and a relay box, and install them next to eachother.
Other than that, I've got everything I need.
Other than that, I've got everything I need.
01-27-12, 08:27 PM
#24
I don't think there is a painless kit for a total rewire.
I'm using milspec 16 gauge wire (from Prowireusa.com), a milspec 55 pin (rated for 13 amps each) bulkhead connector, Micro-relays (4 pin), mini blade fuses, Deutch connectors where possible, and rapping it all with non-name brand Raychem substitute (same milspec spec sheet), and Raychem shrinkable boots (for "T" and "Y" and 90 degree turns in the wires).
Joe at prowire.com said that he's got and even cheaper substitute for Raychem, he's sending me a sample so I can do a side by side compare. I'll also compare the mil-spec spec sheets.
I'm using milspec 16 gauge wire (from Prowireusa.com), a milspec 55 pin (rated for 13 amps each) bulkhead connector, Micro-relays (4 pin), mini blade fuses, Deutch connectors where possible, and rapping it all with non-name brand Raychem substitute (same milspec spec sheet), and Raychem shrinkable boots (for "T" and "Y" and 90 degree turns in the wires).
Joe at prowire.com said that he's got and even cheaper substitute for Raychem, he's sending me a sample so I can do a side by side compare. I'll also compare the mil-spec spec sheets.