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Old 01-15-07, 11:45 AM
  #51  
7-itis

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Well, it has been a while since I've updated the thread. Lots of stuff going on!

Shiny resurfaced flywheel:


Source (suspected) of the oil leak:


Anyways, everything concerning the transmission is wonderful. Now I'm on to sending the injectors out to be cleaned.

What a pain in the ***:


I had to move way more than I wanted to removing the rat's nest. I pulled the alt, oil filler neck, the air pump and crossover pipe as well as the coil pack and the normal stuff. I couldn't get two of the screws off the back of the rats nest, and two on the front, so I ended up getting it loose enough to move around by removing hoses then tackled the rounded screws with vise grips. The one I removed on the back just happened to be the one holding the fuel lines to the rat's nest, so I didn't have to pull them off near the oil filler neck. I finally got it out of there after moving lots of stuff around. I pulled the whole fuel rail, which wasn't too bad if you're careful with the omp lines and the wiring harness. I'm amazed at how crispy the covering for the harness is, I wanted to pull the whole thing back and up, but I couldn't tell how far down the front of the engine it goes (I assumed to the CAS) and I didn't want to remove the power steering pump to get to it. I've got a lot of oil residue near the rear oil injector, but the line looks good so I think I'll just clean it up and see where I'm at then.

In pulling the injectors out of the rail, I managed to break part of the top off of one secondary injector while trying to remove it with a screwdriver. Obviously, now I know this is a bad idea, as is gripping the top of the other injector on the silver part with vice grips and deforming that too. So I purchased two 5k mile injectors from GooRoo (thanks!) which will get here whenever. I got the primaries out without incident, and I should be sending them off to RC Engineering sometime this week for cleaning.

Also noticed that the seal for the primary injector housing to the block was screwed up pretty bad. Does anyone know where I can get these?

Done for now!
Old 01-15-07, 11:48 AM
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7-itis

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And the best part:



Although I'm not sure if I should light it up now after spilling some fuel...
Old 01-24-07, 07:41 PM
  #53  
7-itis

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Update -- RC Engineering got my injectors, one went from 514cc to 548cc with a "dripping" spray pattern, and the other went to 552cc after being cleaned. Should have them back by next Wednesday, cost about $67.00. Very happy with the communication and the turn around time (they received them yesterday!).

I also got two recently cleaned (5k miles) secondary injectors from GooRoo because I broke mine on the way out. Those are back installed, and now I'm just waiting for my new powdercoated uim and the primaries. :-)

Pics to follow if anyone is still reading...

Jason

(woo-hoo! 300th post!)

Last edited by edwin-82/rx7; 01-24-07 at 07:42 PM. Reason: mmm turkey...
Old 01-24-07, 07:51 PM
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Looking good!!! I was about to send some injectors off to be cleaned and wondered what the going rate was these days. Good info.
Old 01-24-07, 09:54 PM
  #55  
7-itis

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$28.50 per injector, I paid 7-something for shipping from NY to CA with UPS ground. They charged me around $10 for ground and handling on the way back. Great pricing as far as I'm concerned.

Jason


Edit: pic of the powder coated UIM, not yet in my possession...

Last edited by edwin-82/rx7; 01-24-07 at 10:05 PM.
Old 02-22-07, 12:32 PM
  #56  
7-itis

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Just a quick update...

Finally got the car started a couple nights ago. I let the injectors sit for WAY too long after they were cleaned, so I was pretty worried. Took about 20 minutes of cranking, fooling around with wires and crap before it started running on one rotor. Did that for a little while, then finally fired on both. Smoked up my whole garage in the process, got a little high off the fumes :-D

I'll think about posting some pics, the uim looks great after the powdercoating. All that's left to do is replace a hose clamp that I somehow lost, and retrieve the 12mm deep socket that fell down into parts unknown....

My tb coolant line deletion seems to be holding up fine, I went with EPDM caps filled with RTV to seal off the inlet/outlet. Coils are still mounted fine without the couple extra spots that the brackets I removed had to help hold it down. Also removed double throttle including the soleniod.

And since I no longer have a "dripping" injector, my exhaust doesn't smell as rich as it did at idle. Hopefully I'll see some lower inj. duty numbers as well.


Thanks for reading guys, pics to come if I'm not terribly lazy.
Old 05-15-09, 08:30 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Busted7
fd3s.net has a write up on the seal replacement. I dont think you need to drain oil, im sure you dont. Just remember dont unbolt the eccentric shaft cover to replace seal!
I've looked at fd3s.net can can't find any write up on replacing the rear main seal...any suggestions?

Thanks.
Old 05-15-09, 10:08 AM
  #58  
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Once you get the flywheel off it's pretty easy just to pry it out with a screwdriver. Just try not to gouge the metal. Use a block of wood and a hammer to gently tap it back in once it's started square.

Turns out the seal was not my issue. I'm doing a rebuild now and it seems 3/8th's of the stationary gear o-ring was missing! That was a nice surprise.
Old 05-15-09, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by edwin-82/rx7
Once you get the flywheel off it's pretty easy just to pry it out with a screwdriver. Just try not to gouge the metal. Use a block of wood and a hammer to gently tap it back in once it's started square.

Turns out the seal was not my issue. I'm doing a rebuild now and it seems 3/8th's of the stationary gear o-ring was missing! That was a nice surprise.
Thanks for the info. I've done more work on my MX-3's over the years than I care to admit to, but the FD is new territory for me. I just want to make sure it is done right. I'm going to take pictures throughout the process. I just ordered the rear main seal and o ring from mazda for $21.00! Talk about good news on a Friday.
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