Winter Engine Cleaning
10-31-05, 10:14 PM
#1
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Winter Engine Cleaning
I've done a few searchs on this and have read about using ATF short term for cleaning the internals of the engine but.
My question is i was told that during the winter i should put some ATF in through the spark plug holes and crank the motor and repeat and let the car sit during winter. Then when summer comes around when i go to start it the motor should be good and cleaned or at least that is what i was told any truth to this??
Also wouldn't the excess carbon comming out of the exhaust harm my T-78?
My question is i was told that during the winter i should put some ATF in through the spark plug holes and crank the motor and repeat and let the car sit during winter. Then when summer comes around when i go to start it the motor should be good and cleaned or at least that is what i was told any truth to this??
Also wouldn't the excess carbon comming out of the exhaust harm my T-78?
10-31-05, 11:00 PM
#2
I wouln't worry about it. All this talk about cleaning out the cardon and these motors don't last long enough anyway for it to make a difference. I would just try to start it up every week or two. You don't even have to drive it, just let it run for a few min to warm up.
11-01-05, 12:00 AM
#3
^ Actually more carbon will build-up that way. These engines aren't that thermally efficiant when it comes to fully combusting the fuel air mixture. Letting the engine idle to warm up (and not driving it) will still leave additional carbon deposits behind creating a larger build-up. Thats why it's always best to run the engine hard to break the deposits down.
importrx7 if your car is capable of a quick start-up and shut down without flooding(like mine is), then you have really good compression. Good compression means your internal seals are nice & free from carbon sticking. The less carbon sticking of the seals you have, and the less carbon you have on the rotor faces, decreases the chances of carbon lock after storage. Go buy some carburetor cleaner and spray it down your 2 primary intakes vacuum nipples on the UIM while the engine is revved to about 3k and higher. This will de-carbonize the engine. When the can is empty go and drive the car fairly hard for a little while. Now the engine will be ready for storage.
importrx7 if your car is capable of a quick start-up and shut down without flooding(like mine is), then you have really good compression. Good compression means your internal seals are nice & free from carbon sticking. The less carbon sticking of the seals you have, and the less carbon you have on the rotor faces, decreases the chances of carbon lock after storage. Go buy some carburetor cleaner and spray it down your 2 primary intakes vacuum nipples on the UIM while the engine is revved to about 3k and higher. This will de-carbonize the engine. When the can is empty go and drive the car fairly hard for a little while. Now the engine will be ready for storage.
11-02-05, 02:20 AM
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I will try this, i never knew that "quick start-up and shut down without flooding" meant i had really good compression that makes me feel good cause i do that all the time with no flooding problems say just moving the car real fast.
This sounds similar to cleaning the engine with water, but with carb cleaner.
This sounds similar to cleaning the engine with water, but with carb cleaner.
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