Wideband tuning finally affordable?
Motec's are made in Aussieland too, by (naturally) Australians. Some awfully smart, ingenious people down there.
The argument that something that costs more should universally be better then something that is less expensive is suspect. Kinda like saying a Rolls Royce should be more reliable or perform better then a Lexus.
Despite were you stand on the cost argument - the fact is, there are ALOT of enthusiasts that are using the 'DIY' wideband - and for a significant period of time - and with excellent results. Spend some time in the ECU and the Single turbo sections (where all the really knowledgable people are anyways, for the most part) and see what they have to say about it.
BTW skunks, still using that Super-AFC vs a real standalone ECU? Your more likely to blow your engine trying to tune that vs a real standalone - compared to buying a DIY wideband vs the Motec wideband. It's your money/engine/car. Just poking fun.
The argument that something that costs more should universally be better then something that is less expensive is suspect. Kinda like saying a Rolls Royce should be more reliable or perform better then a Lexus.
Despite were you stand on the cost argument - the fact is, there are ALOT of enthusiasts that are using the 'DIY' wideband - and for a significant period of time - and with excellent results. Spend some time in the ECU and the Single turbo sections (where all the really knowledgable people are anyways, for the most part) and see what they have to say about it.
BTW skunks, still using that Super-AFC vs a real standalone ECU? Your more likely to blow your engine trying to tune that vs a real standalone - compared to buying a DIY wideband vs the Motec wideband. It's your money/engine/car. Just poking fun.
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From: Pockyville
The motec is a fine product... the problem is it doesn't datalog unless you buy their $$$$$$ dash display which resembles what you see in an F1 car.
The others do allow datalogging which is what steered me away from Motec.
A DIY is fine if it's built correctly which isn't that hard... but it needs to be calibrated correctly as well which isn't as easy.
I prefered to spend a little more for a calibrated and tested unit.
The others do allow datalogging which is what steered me away from Motec.
A DIY is fine if it's built correctly which isn't that hard... but it needs to be calibrated correctly as well which isn't as easy.
I prefered to spend a little more for a calibrated and tested unit.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: San Lorenzo, California
Originally posted by skunks
in anycase, i trust motec; If its good enuf for champ/cart cars, JGTC, la man cars... its good enuf for me
in anycase, i trust motec; If its good enuf for champ/cart cars, JGTC, la man cars... its good enuf for me
I'm a CF and poop smith
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,957
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From: Hawaii
Originally posted by dclin
Motec's are made in Aussieland too, by (naturally) Australians. Some awfully smart, ingenious people down there.
The argument that something that costs more should universally be better then something that is less expensive is suspect. Kinda like saying a Rolls Royce should be more reliable or perform better then a Lexus.
Despite were you stand on the cost argument - the fact is, there are ALOT of enthusiasts that are using the 'DIY' wideband - and for a significant period of time - and with excellent results. Spend some time in the ECU and the Single turbo sections (where all the really knowledgable people are anyways, for the most part) and see what they have to say about it.
BTW skunks, still using that Super-AFC vs a real standalone ECU? Your more likely to blow your engine trying to tune that vs a real standalone - compared to buying a DIY wideband vs the Motec wideband. It's your money/engine/car. Just poking fun.
Motec's are made in Aussieland too, by (naturally) Australians. Some awfully smart, ingenious people down there.
The argument that something that costs more should universally be better then something that is less expensive is suspect. Kinda like saying a Rolls Royce should be more reliable or perform better then a Lexus.
Despite were you stand on the cost argument - the fact is, there are ALOT of enthusiasts that are using the 'DIY' wideband - and for a significant period of time - and with excellent results. Spend some time in the ECU and the Single turbo sections (where all the really knowledgable people are anyways, for the most part) and see what they have to say about it.
BTW skunks, still using that Super-AFC vs a real standalone ECU? Your more likely to blow your engine trying to tune that vs a real standalone - compared to buying a DIY wideband vs the Motec wideband. It's your money/engine/car. Just poking fun.
In anycase I still say motec all the way If guys are having success with the diy ones, good for them.As for the stand alone... I don't need a stand alone I'm already running super rich (which was checked on a true wideband, totally worth the 30 bucks
) with the stock ecu. I'm fine, especially since I'm keeping my boost in check getting a solid 10psi boost all the way to redline! How many of you guys with dp, mp, catback, intake, intercooler with manual/homedepot boost controler can say that ; I'm engine swapping very soon too so who the hell cares? 
Lastly, a Rolls Royce should be better quality then a Lexus, if not, you got a crappy as Rolls and should return it asap!
Last edited by skunks; Mar 28, 2003 at 05:48 AM.
Rotorally Challenged
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Southern Illinois
Skunks
I am soooo pleased you can afford the "best".
Other than the fact that pro teams use MOTEC (no argument there), what makes it the best?
---->If it is "fit and finish", you win.
---->If it is "accuracy and reliability" it is an all out tie (my truly diy OZ unit-which was built completely with my own clumsy hands- displayed a maximum difference of less than .1 leaner AFR number throughout the test range when tested against a $2500 "professional unit") (NOTE: the professional unit was placed in the tailpipe while mine was secured in the downpipe which can account for some of the difference).
--->If it is price---the american and aussie DIY units rule.
BTW how do you feel about datalogits (born and raised in New Zealand) as compared with the American offerings from DataQ (www.dataq.com)? The professional DataQ coupled with the software can run into the 1000's of dollars and still needs to be specifically programmed for the inputs from the FD sensors, whereas for around $300 the datalogit plugs into the Power FC and plays immediately. Hmmmmmmmmmmmm I wonder
I am soooo pleased you can afford the "best".
Other than the fact that pro teams use MOTEC (no argument there), what makes it the best?
---->If it is "fit and finish", you win.
---->If it is "accuracy and reliability" it is an all out tie (my truly diy OZ unit-which was built completely with my own clumsy hands- displayed a maximum difference of less than .1 leaner AFR number throughout the test range when tested against a $2500 "professional unit") (NOTE: the professional unit was placed in the tailpipe while mine was secured in the downpipe which can account for some of the difference).
--->If it is price---the american and aussie DIY units rule.
BTW how do you feel about datalogits (born and raised in New Zealand) as compared with the American offerings from DataQ (www.dataq.com)? The professional DataQ coupled with the software can run into the 1000's of dollars and still needs to be specifically programmed for the inputs from the FD sensors, whereas for around $300 the datalogit plugs into the Power FC and plays immediately. Hmmmmmmmmmmmm I wonder
I'm a CF and poop smith
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,957
Likes: 1
From: Hawaii
haha, I wish I could afford the best (thats why i gotta pay 30 bucks each time to use a pro wideband). I'm saying, if your gonna buy a wideband, buy the best or just rent one. (if it cost 30 bucks to rent one all day in Hawaii, it can't possibly cost that much more in the mainland... can it?)
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Joined: May 2001
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From: southern NJ
a little off topic. i have the conectivity kit but it did not come with the rpm pick up. i haev been mostly using the display and not logging it. question is... can you just splice into the lead out of the box and hook it up to a rpm signal rather than order that pick up?
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From: Pockyville
Originally posted by rxrotary2_7
a little off topic. i have the conectivity kit but it did not come with the rpm pick up. i haev been mostly using the display and not logging it. question is... can you just splice into the lead out of the box and hook it up to a rpm signal rather than order that pick up?
a little off topic. i have the conectivity kit but it did not come with the rpm pick up. i haev been mostly using the display and not logging it. question is... can you just splice into the lead out of the box and hook it up to a rpm signal rather than order that pick up?
Are you talking about the FJO... if so then yes you can buy the connectors and splice in and save yourself some $$.
Shoot me a PM and I'll try to get you the info.
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From: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
I just got the DIY from tech-edge and have finished the cable from the O2 sensor to the box. I have a friend of mine who's extra super duper circuit board saavy(I haven't soldered a board in 7 years
), so I'll be putting mine in soon.
From reading the other threads on the DIY, you can't beat the price and accuracy of the TE box, especially if you can solder on your own.
), so I'll be putting mine in soon. From reading the other threads on the DIY, you can't beat the price and accuracy of the TE box, especially if you can solder on your own.
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From: Pockyville
Originally posted by jspecracer7
I just got the DIY from tech-edge and have finished the cable from the O2 sensor to the box. I have a friend of mine who's extra super duper circuit board saavy(I haven't soldered a board in 7 years ), so I'll be putting mine in soon.
From reading the other threads on the DIY, you can't beat the price and accuracy of the TE box, especially if you can solder on your own.
I just got the DIY from tech-edge and have finished the cable from the O2 sensor to the box. I have a friend of mine who's extra super duper circuit board saavy(I haven't soldered a board in 7 years
), so I'll be putting mine in soon. From reading the other threads on the DIY, you can't beat the price and accuracy of the TE box, especially if you can solder on your own.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: San Lorenzo, California
Originally posted by Jim Swantko
Good luck... a friend of mine had a Phd EE put his together and it still didn't work properly. I hope yours turns out better.
Good luck... a friend of mine had a Phd EE put his together and it still didn't work properly. I hope yours turns out better.
Rotorally Challenged
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Southern Illinois
Bottom line is that in putting together any of the DIY WBs you use a small soldering pencil (15W max) and take your time-read the instructions-double check the orientation of the components- and did I mention take your time. I haven't soldered anything in over 30 years, I have most of the fingers on my left hand amputated and I have to use a magnifying glass to see the holes where the components go and I still managed to build 2 working american diy WB kits and 1 OZ kit with no problems. Join the NIKE revolution and "Just do it"!
The accuracy and response times from these little diy critters is unsurpassed by the expensive commercial ones.
The accuracy and response times from these little diy critters is unsurpassed by the expensive commercial ones.
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From: South Florida
By the same logic, why waste your money on an RX-7...if you're going to buy a sports car, buy a Lambo, or a Ferrari, or wait for that Carrera GT.
Furthermore, I'm pretty sure these guys don't put it in their car, tune, and then throw it out...so renting one is a pretty poor option.
jds
Furthermore, I'm pretty sure these guys don't put it in their car, tune, and then throw it out...so renting one is a pretty poor option.
jds
Originally posted by skunks
haha, I wish I could afford the best (thats why i gotta pay 30 bucks each time to use a pro wideband). I'm saying, if your gonna buy a wideband, buy the best or just rent one. (if it cost 30 bucks to rent one all day in Hawaii, it can't possibly cost that much more in the mainland... can it?)
haha, I wish I could afford the best (thats why i gotta pay 30 bucks each time to use a pro wideband). I'm saying, if your gonna buy a wideband, buy the best or just rent one. (if it cost 30 bucks to rent one all day in Hawaii, it can't possibly cost that much more in the mainland... can it?)
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: South Florida
Ha ha! As a EE myself, I can confirm this!
jds
jds
Originally posted by rynberg
I think it's a general rule that the more educated a EE is, the less they can actually do with a solder iron.....
I think it's a general rule that the more educated a EE is, the less they can actually do with a solder iron.....
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From: Pockyville
Like I said... it's not just soldering components to a breadboard. It's the calibration that seems to be the problem.
The power supply circuit got extremely hot as well... hopefully it's been taken care of.
Read this for all the info..
I take that back however... he was a Phd in Bio-something
Anyway... just good info none the less
http://www.supraforums.com/showthrea...&highlight=FJO
The power supply circuit got extremely hot as well... hopefully it's been taken care of.
Read this for all the info..
I take that back however... he was a Phd in Bio-something
Anyway... just good info none the less
http://www.supraforums.com/showthrea...&highlight=FJO
Rotorally Challenged
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,512
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From: Southern Illinois
What, you aren't going to mention that the v1.5 TechEdge design allows you to calibrate for a decaying O2 sensor. Of course you have to calibrate---you should calibrate everything. I got a BRAND NEW L1H1 that was calibrated from the factory at 4.23 volts in Free Air----should have been 4.00. If I didn't know I should calibrate for the O2 sensor just think what my AFRs would have been. All the WBs seem to be competetive in their accuracy---so unless you are selling something why not just tell it like it is. Anecdotal evidence sucks-- I can give you links to threads where people say FJO, Motec, Blah Blah, WBs blew up their engines. With electronics like these S---- Happens. You pays your money and takes your choice. I have never been sorry I did the DIY thing, neither have the two professional mechanics (1 Audi, 1 RX7) who got the American units as gifts from me.
Disclaimer: Your results may vary
Disclaimer: Your results may vary
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Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Pockyville
Originally posted by jeff48
What, you aren't going to mention that the v1.5 TechEdge design allows you to calibrate for a decaying O2 sensor. Of course you have to calibrate---you should calibrate everything. I got a BRAND NEW L1H1 that was calibrated from the factory at 4.23 volts in Free Air----should have been 4.00. If I didn't know I should calibrate for the O2 sensor just think what my AFRs would have been. All the WBs seem to be competetive in their accuracy---so unless you are selling something why not just tell it like it is. Anecdotal evidence sucks-- I can give you links to threads where people say FJO, Motec, Blah Blah, WBs blew up their engines. With electronics like these S---- Happens. You pays your money and takes your choice. I have never been sorry I did the DIY thing, neither have the two professional mechanics (1 Audi, 1 RX7) who got the American units as gifts from me.
Disclaimer: Your results may vary
What, you aren't going to mention that the v1.5 TechEdge design allows you to calibrate for a decaying O2 sensor. Of course you have to calibrate---you should calibrate everything. I got a BRAND NEW L1H1 that was calibrated from the factory at 4.23 volts in Free Air----should have been 4.00. If I didn't know I should calibrate for the O2 sensor just think what my AFRs would have been. All the WBs seem to be competetive in their accuracy---so unless you are selling something why not just tell it like it is. Anecdotal evidence sucks-- I can give you links to threads where people say FJO, Motec, Blah Blah, WBs blew up their engines. With electronics like these S---- Happens. You pays your money and takes your choice. I have never been sorry I did the DIY thing, neither have the two professional mechanics (1 Audi, 1 RX7) who got the American units as gifts from me.
Disclaimer: Your results may vary
Whoa... settle down there. I never said it was a bad product. I just wanted to let the prospective buyers hear other peoples opinions.
You obviously like your DIY... I know of a few people who didn't like it. Let them hear all the opinions then make their own judgement.
Jeez... relax.
Rotorally Challenged
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Southern Illinois
Jim
You suggest I calm down? Please reflect on your posts on this thread and realize it would appear that you are the one grinding an axe. Why? I haven't the foggiest clue.
I am soooooo glad you love your higher priced WB unit, but that isn't really the point to your story is it? I am soooo glad you have the disposable income to buy whatever you want and I am sure we are all pleased that you have that ability.
HOWEVER: You just can't be happy with your little successes and you have to throw challenges and barbs out like you are defending your own patents.
You say you never said that the TE is a bad unit-----maybe not in those words but the implications are VERY clear. Perhaps these quotes will remind you.
"A DIY is fine if it's built correctly which isn't that hard... but it needs to be calibrated correctly as well which isn't as easy. I prefered to spend a little more for a calibrated and tested unit."
"Good luck... a friend of mine had a Phd EE put his together and it still didn't work properly. I hope yours turns out better."
and the ever popular
"Like I said... it's not just soldering components to a breadboard. It's the calibration that seems to be the problem. The power supply circuit got extremely hot as well... hopefully it's been taken care of."
First you imply that calibration is a problem for only the DIYs which is NOT TRUE. The v1.5 OZ unit specifically has the ability to calibrate for changes or problems in the L1H1. Accuracy of calibration and repeated calibration tests and adjustments are needed for ALL WB units. When was the last time you calibrated or even tested yours?
Next you imply that something was wrong with the power supply, without realizing that a HOT power supply is a function of an error in assembly not in the accuracy of the schematic or the quality of the parts. So TE should take the brunt of that also?
Thank you for reminding me to chill out---> it is usually what I hear from someone who is wrong and won't admit it. May I suggest you take your own advice and lighten up until you have something positive to add to the mix. As I said before anecdotal evidence is unreliable at best. For more real information I suggest people research WB units in many different forums. I know I did, before I ended up in DIY land.
To all :
In other words, please do not take my word for anything other than my personal experience with my unit, which I will gladly document with copies of the original graphs from the datalogit and dyno. BTW my OZ-DIY-WB is acquiring information from a 50K old L1H1 purchased used from a junk yard (off a 1993 vtec civic VX) on the internet for $35.00 and consistently reports equal to or less than .1 AFR leaner than the dyno's MOTEC.
Rant Mode Off
You suggest I calm down? Please reflect on your posts on this thread and realize it would appear that you are the one grinding an axe. Why? I haven't the foggiest clue.
I am soooooo glad you love your higher priced WB unit, but that isn't really the point to your story is it? I am soooo glad you have the disposable income to buy whatever you want and I am sure we are all pleased that you have that ability.
HOWEVER: You just can't be happy with your little successes and you have to throw challenges and barbs out like you are defending your own patents.
You say you never said that the TE is a bad unit-----maybe not in those words but the implications are VERY clear. Perhaps these quotes will remind you.
"A DIY is fine if it's built correctly which isn't that hard... but it needs to be calibrated correctly as well which isn't as easy. I prefered to spend a little more for a calibrated and tested unit."
"Good luck... a friend of mine had a Phd EE put his together and it still didn't work properly. I hope yours turns out better."
and the ever popular
"Like I said... it's not just soldering components to a breadboard. It's the calibration that seems to be the problem. The power supply circuit got extremely hot as well... hopefully it's been taken care of."
First you imply that calibration is a problem for only the DIYs which is NOT TRUE. The v1.5 OZ unit specifically has the ability to calibrate for changes or problems in the L1H1. Accuracy of calibration and repeated calibration tests and adjustments are needed for ALL WB units. When was the last time you calibrated or even tested yours?
Next you imply that something was wrong with the power supply, without realizing that a HOT power supply is a function of an error in assembly not in the accuracy of the schematic or the quality of the parts. So TE should take the brunt of that also?
Thank you for reminding me to chill out---> it is usually what I hear from someone who is wrong and won't admit it. May I suggest you take your own advice and lighten up until you have something positive to add to the mix. As I said before anecdotal evidence is unreliable at best. For more real information I suggest people research WB units in many different forums. I know I did, before I ended up in DIY land.
To all :
In other words, please do not take my word for anything other than my personal experience with my unit, which I will gladly document with copies of the original graphs from the datalogit and dyno. BTW my OZ-DIY-WB is acquiring information from a 50K old L1H1 purchased used from a junk yard (off a 1993 vtec civic VX) on the internet for $35.00 and consistently reports equal to or less than .1 AFR leaner than the dyno's MOTEC.
Rant Mode Off
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From: Pockyville
Originally posted by jeff48
Jim
You suggest I calm down? Please reflect on your posts on this thread and realize it would appear that you are the one grinding an axe. Why? I haven't the foggiest clue.
I HAVE NOT ATTACKED YOU OR THE DIY WB... SO I AN THE ONE WHO IS LOST HERE.
I am soooooo glad you love your higher priced WB unit, but that isn't really the point to your story is it? I am soooo glad you have the disposable income to buy whatever you want and I am sure we are all pleased that you have that ability.
OK I HAVE NO IDEA WHERE THIS CAME FROM... DO YOU THINK I'M BRAGGING ABOUT MY FJO? I HAVE RE-READ MY POSTS AND SIMPLY DON'T GET THAT AT ALL. YOU'RE WAY OFF BASE HERE.
HOWEVER: You just can't be happy with your little successes and you have to throw challenges and barbs out like you are defending your own patents.
DUDE, WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT? ALL I SAID WAS THAT I WAS HAPPY WITH MINE AND THAT I KNOW A FEW PEOPLE WHO HAVE TRIED THE DIY AND WEREN'T SATISFIED. YOU SEEM TO BE UNABLE TO ADMIT THAT THERE IS EVEN THE SLIGHTEST CHANCE THAT SOMEONE HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE DIY KIT EVENTHOUGH I PROVIDED A LINK TO A THREAD WHERE IT WAS DISCUSSED. THIS WASN'T DONE TO ATTACK YOU OR THE FACT THAT YOU DECIDED TO GO WITH THE DIY KIT... IT WAS TO SIMPLY PROVIDE MORE INPUT ABOUT REAL WORLD EXPERIENCES WITH THE DIY. YOU SEEM TO WANT US TO TAKE YOUR WORD FOR HOW WELL IT WORKS... BUT YOU WANT US TO DISCOUNT ANY EXPERIENCES THAT AREN'T AS POSITIVE. HMMM...
AS FOR PATENTS... I WISH I OWNED THE PATENT BUT UNFORTUNATELY I DON'T. YOU ON THE OTHERHAND SOUND AS IF YOU GET COMMISSION ON EVERY DIY KIT SOLD.
You say you never said that the TE is a bad unit-----maybe not in those words but the implications are VERY clear. Perhaps these quotes will remind you.
THE ONLY THING I EVER ELUDED TO WAS THE FACT THAT I KNOW A FEW PEOPLE WHO TRIED THE DIY AND WEREN'T HAPPY. I HAVE NO PROBLEM WITH THE TE UNIT... OR THE DIY TE UNIT FOR THAT MATTER. WHEN I BOUGHT MY WB I COULDN'T FIND ANY FEEDBACK ABOUT THE TE OR I MIGHT HAVE BOUGHT ONE MYSELF. I DID HEAR LOTS OF POSITIVE THINGS ABOUT THE FJO SO I BOUGHT IT. I'D MUCH RATHER PAY $400 OVER $700... BUT LIKE I SAID THE TE WAS SORT OF AN UNKNOWN AT THE TIME AND I'VE BEEN BURNED BEFORE BY BEING THE TRAILBLAZER.
"A DIY is fine if it's built correctly which isn't that hard... but it needs to be calibrated correctly as well which isn't as easy. I prefered to spend a little more for a calibrated and tested unit."
"Good luck... a friend of mine had a Phd EE put his together and it still didn't work properly. I hope yours turns out better."
and the ever popular
"Like I said... it's not just soldering components to a breadboard. It's the calibration that seems to be the problem. The power supply circuit got extremely hot as well... hopefully it's been taken care of."
First you imply that calibration is a problem for only the DIYs which is NOT TRUE. The v1.5 OZ unit specifically has the ability to calibrate for changes or problems in the L1H1. Accuracy of calibration and repeated calibration tests and adjustments are needed for ALL WB units. When was the last time you calibrated or even tested yours?
DAMN... YOU SURE ARE DEFENSIVE.
I NEVER SAID OTHER WB'S DON'T NEED TO BE CALIBRATED. WHEN I SAID "GOOD LUCK" I WAS BEING SINCERE. I WASN'T MEANT TO BE SMART *** ALTHOUGH I CAN SEE THAT IT MIGHT HAVE SEEMED THAT WAY.
LISTEN WHAT I MEANT BY "SOLDERING TO A BREADBOARD" WAS THAT AS AN EE I HAD TO SOLDER LOTS OF **** TO A BREADBOARD AND EVEN WHEN I FOLLOWED SCHEMATICS TO THE LETTER THE CIRCUIT DIDN'T ALWAYS WORK FROM THE GET-GO. CIRCUIT ELEMENTS (RESISTORS, CAPS, INDUCTORS, ETC) HAVE TOLERANCES AND THOSE TOLERANCES CAN ADD UP SO THAT THE OUTPUT OF A SUB-CIRCUIT MIGHT FALL BELOW THE DESIRED INPUT OF THE NEXT SUB-CIRCUIT. SORRY BUT I DIDN'T WANT TO HAVE TO SCREW WITH ALL THAT. IT WASN'T FUN WHEN I WAS IN SCHOOL... AND I'M PRETTY SURE I WOULDN'T LIKE TO SIT DOWN BEHIND AN OSCILLOSCOPE TRACING A CIRCUIT.
Next you imply that something was wrong with the power supply, without realizing that a HOT power supply is a function of an error in assembly not in the accuracy of the schematic or the quality of the parts. So TE should take the brunt of that also?
EXACTLY... WHICH OBVIOUSLY MEANS IT ISN'T AS SIMPLE AS SOLDERING THESE PARTS TO A BREADBOARD.
NO THE TE SHOULDN'T TAKE THE BRUNT... BUT THE DIY KIT LEAVES THAT A POSSIBILITY. I THINK YOU ARE MISTAKEN MY CRITICISM OF THE DIY VERSION TO ME CRITICISING THE TE UNIT. AGAIN I HAVE NO PROBLEMS WITH TE... BUT THE DIY KIT HAS SHOWN PROBLEMS.
ALTHOUGH I DO KNOW ANOTHER GUY WITH THE TE UNIT THAT HAS A DISPLAY THAT TAKES 20 MINUTES TO WARM UP. YES I KNOW THERE IS A FIX FOR THIS... IT'S A JOKE SO RELAX.
Thank you for reminding me to chill out---> it is usually what I hear from someone who is wrong and won't admit it. May I suggest you take your own advice and lighten up until you have something positive to add to the mix.
I COMPLETELY DISAGREE... FORUMS LIKE THIS ARE FOR EXCHANGE OF KNOWLEDGE. BY SIMPLY ADDING POSITIVES ACCOMPLISHES NOTHING. I FOR ONE LIKE TO HEAR THE WHOLE STORY... SORRY IF YOU WANT TO LIVE IN DREAMLAND WHERE ONLY GOOD THINGS HAPPEN.
NO I'M NOT SOMEONE WHO CAN'T ADMIT WHEN I'M WRONG. I STILL THINK THAT THE DIY KIT IS NOT FOR EVERYONE. I STILL THINK IT'S NOT AS SIMPLE AS SOLDERING SOME COMPONENTS TO A BREADBOARD AND VOILA... I'M SURE IT'S HAPPENED BEFORE... BUT I WASN'T WILLING TO TAKE THAT RISK.
WHY ARE YOU SO PISSED THAT I BOUGHT A PRE-BUILT UNIT THAT COST MORE THAN YOUR DIY?
As I said before anecdotal evidence is unreliable at best. For more real information I suggest people research WB units in many different forums. I know I did, before I ended up in DIY land.
WHY THEN WOULDN'T YOU WANT ME TO GIVE MY INPUT THEN? SOUNDS LIKE YOU WANT PEOPLE TO RESEARCH ONLY THE POSITIVE COMMENTS AND IGNORE THE ANECDOTAL NEGATIVE COMMENTS. BTW... I VERY RARELY TRUST WHAT I READ ON A MANUFACTURERS WEBSITE. I'D TAKE REAL WORLD EXPEREINCES FROM REAL PEOPLE ANY DAY OF THE WEEK.
To all :
In other words, please do not take my word for anything other than my personal experience with my unit, which I will gladly document with copies of the original graphs from the datalogit and dyno. BTW my OZ-DIY-WB is acquiring information from a 50K old L1H1 purchased used from a junk yard (off a 1993 vtec civic VX) on the internet for $35.00 and consistently reports equal to or less than .1 AFR leaner than the dyno's MOTEC.
GOOD... I'M GLAD THAT YOURS WORKS WELL. I MEAN THAT SINCERELY NOT SMART *** BTW.
I DON'T HAVE TO TURN RANT MODE OFF... BECAUSE I HAVEN'T RANTED... I'VE PROVIDED OPINIONS FROM MY RESEARCH AND PERSONAL EXPERIENCE.
Rant Mode Off
Jim
You suggest I calm down? Please reflect on your posts on this thread and realize it would appear that you are the one grinding an axe. Why? I haven't the foggiest clue.
I HAVE NOT ATTACKED YOU OR THE DIY WB... SO I AN THE ONE WHO IS LOST HERE.
I am soooooo glad you love your higher priced WB unit, but that isn't really the point to your story is it? I am soooo glad you have the disposable income to buy whatever you want and I am sure we are all pleased that you have that ability.
OK I HAVE NO IDEA WHERE THIS CAME FROM... DO YOU THINK I'M BRAGGING ABOUT MY FJO? I HAVE RE-READ MY POSTS AND SIMPLY DON'T GET THAT AT ALL. YOU'RE WAY OFF BASE HERE.
HOWEVER: You just can't be happy with your little successes and you have to throw challenges and barbs out like you are defending your own patents.
DUDE, WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT? ALL I SAID WAS THAT I WAS HAPPY WITH MINE AND THAT I KNOW A FEW PEOPLE WHO HAVE TRIED THE DIY AND WEREN'T SATISFIED. YOU SEEM TO BE UNABLE TO ADMIT THAT THERE IS EVEN THE SLIGHTEST CHANCE THAT SOMEONE HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE DIY KIT EVENTHOUGH I PROVIDED A LINK TO A THREAD WHERE IT WAS DISCUSSED. THIS WASN'T DONE TO ATTACK YOU OR THE FACT THAT YOU DECIDED TO GO WITH THE DIY KIT... IT WAS TO SIMPLY PROVIDE MORE INPUT ABOUT REAL WORLD EXPERIENCES WITH THE DIY. YOU SEEM TO WANT US TO TAKE YOUR WORD FOR HOW WELL IT WORKS... BUT YOU WANT US TO DISCOUNT ANY EXPERIENCES THAT AREN'T AS POSITIVE. HMMM...
AS FOR PATENTS... I WISH I OWNED THE PATENT BUT UNFORTUNATELY I DON'T. YOU ON THE OTHERHAND SOUND AS IF YOU GET COMMISSION ON EVERY DIY KIT SOLD.
You say you never said that the TE is a bad unit-----maybe not in those words but the implications are VERY clear. Perhaps these quotes will remind you.
THE ONLY THING I EVER ELUDED TO WAS THE FACT THAT I KNOW A FEW PEOPLE WHO TRIED THE DIY AND WEREN'T HAPPY. I HAVE NO PROBLEM WITH THE TE UNIT... OR THE DIY TE UNIT FOR THAT MATTER. WHEN I BOUGHT MY WB I COULDN'T FIND ANY FEEDBACK ABOUT THE TE OR I MIGHT HAVE BOUGHT ONE MYSELF. I DID HEAR LOTS OF POSITIVE THINGS ABOUT THE FJO SO I BOUGHT IT. I'D MUCH RATHER PAY $400 OVER $700... BUT LIKE I SAID THE TE WAS SORT OF AN UNKNOWN AT THE TIME AND I'VE BEEN BURNED BEFORE BY BEING THE TRAILBLAZER.
"A DIY is fine if it's built correctly which isn't that hard... but it needs to be calibrated correctly as well which isn't as easy. I prefered to spend a little more for a calibrated and tested unit."
"Good luck... a friend of mine had a Phd EE put his together and it still didn't work properly. I hope yours turns out better."
and the ever popular
"Like I said... it's not just soldering components to a breadboard. It's the calibration that seems to be the problem. The power supply circuit got extremely hot as well... hopefully it's been taken care of."
First you imply that calibration is a problem for only the DIYs which is NOT TRUE. The v1.5 OZ unit specifically has the ability to calibrate for changes or problems in the L1H1. Accuracy of calibration and repeated calibration tests and adjustments are needed for ALL WB units. When was the last time you calibrated or even tested yours?
DAMN... YOU SURE ARE DEFENSIVE.
I NEVER SAID OTHER WB'S DON'T NEED TO BE CALIBRATED. WHEN I SAID "GOOD LUCK" I WAS BEING SINCERE. I WASN'T MEANT TO BE SMART *** ALTHOUGH I CAN SEE THAT IT MIGHT HAVE SEEMED THAT WAY.
LISTEN WHAT I MEANT BY "SOLDERING TO A BREADBOARD" WAS THAT AS AN EE I HAD TO SOLDER LOTS OF **** TO A BREADBOARD AND EVEN WHEN I FOLLOWED SCHEMATICS TO THE LETTER THE CIRCUIT DIDN'T ALWAYS WORK FROM THE GET-GO. CIRCUIT ELEMENTS (RESISTORS, CAPS, INDUCTORS, ETC) HAVE TOLERANCES AND THOSE TOLERANCES CAN ADD UP SO THAT THE OUTPUT OF A SUB-CIRCUIT MIGHT FALL BELOW THE DESIRED INPUT OF THE NEXT SUB-CIRCUIT. SORRY BUT I DIDN'T WANT TO HAVE TO SCREW WITH ALL THAT. IT WASN'T FUN WHEN I WAS IN SCHOOL... AND I'M PRETTY SURE I WOULDN'T LIKE TO SIT DOWN BEHIND AN OSCILLOSCOPE TRACING A CIRCUIT.
Next you imply that something was wrong with the power supply, without realizing that a HOT power supply is a function of an error in assembly not in the accuracy of the schematic or the quality of the parts. So TE should take the brunt of that also?
EXACTLY... WHICH OBVIOUSLY MEANS IT ISN'T AS SIMPLE AS SOLDERING THESE PARTS TO A BREADBOARD.
NO THE TE SHOULDN'T TAKE THE BRUNT... BUT THE DIY KIT LEAVES THAT A POSSIBILITY. I THINK YOU ARE MISTAKEN MY CRITICISM OF THE DIY VERSION TO ME CRITICISING THE TE UNIT. AGAIN I HAVE NO PROBLEMS WITH TE... BUT THE DIY KIT HAS SHOWN PROBLEMS.
ALTHOUGH I DO KNOW ANOTHER GUY WITH THE TE UNIT THAT HAS A DISPLAY THAT TAKES 20 MINUTES TO WARM UP.
YES I KNOW THERE IS A FIX FOR THIS... IT'S A JOKE SO RELAX.Thank you for reminding me to chill out---> it is usually what I hear from someone who is wrong and won't admit it. May I suggest you take your own advice and lighten up until you have something positive to add to the mix.
I COMPLETELY DISAGREE... FORUMS LIKE THIS ARE FOR EXCHANGE OF KNOWLEDGE. BY SIMPLY ADDING POSITIVES ACCOMPLISHES NOTHING. I FOR ONE LIKE TO HEAR THE WHOLE STORY... SORRY IF YOU WANT TO LIVE IN DREAMLAND WHERE ONLY GOOD THINGS HAPPEN.
NO I'M NOT SOMEONE WHO CAN'T ADMIT WHEN I'M WRONG. I STILL THINK THAT THE DIY KIT IS NOT FOR EVERYONE. I STILL THINK IT'S NOT AS SIMPLE AS SOLDERING SOME COMPONENTS TO A BREADBOARD AND VOILA... I'M SURE IT'S HAPPENED BEFORE... BUT I WASN'T WILLING TO TAKE THAT RISK.
WHY ARE YOU SO PISSED THAT I BOUGHT A PRE-BUILT UNIT THAT COST MORE THAN YOUR DIY?
As I said before anecdotal evidence is unreliable at best. For more real information I suggest people research WB units in many different forums. I know I did, before I ended up in DIY land.
WHY THEN WOULDN'T YOU WANT ME TO GIVE MY INPUT THEN? SOUNDS LIKE YOU WANT PEOPLE TO RESEARCH ONLY THE POSITIVE COMMENTS AND IGNORE THE ANECDOTAL NEGATIVE COMMENTS. BTW... I VERY RARELY TRUST WHAT I READ ON A MANUFACTURERS WEBSITE. I'D TAKE REAL WORLD EXPEREINCES FROM REAL PEOPLE ANY DAY OF THE WEEK.
To all :
In other words, please do not take my word for anything other than my personal experience with my unit, which I will gladly document with copies of the original graphs from the datalogit and dyno. BTW my OZ-DIY-WB is acquiring information from a 50K old L1H1 purchased used from a junk yard (off a 1993 vtec civic VX) on the internet for $35.00 and consistently reports equal to or less than .1 AFR leaner than the dyno's MOTEC.
GOOD... I'M GLAD THAT YOURS WORKS WELL. I MEAN THAT SINCERELY NOT SMART *** BTW.
I DON'T HAVE TO TURN RANT MODE OFF... BECAUSE I HAVEN'T RANTED... I'VE PROVIDED OPINIONS FROM MY RESEARCH AND PERSONAL EXPERIENCE.
Rant Mode Off
WWFSMD
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 5,035
Likes: 4
From: SoCal
I got a pre-build v1.0 wideband unit with the display from TechEdge. It was relatively easy to install worked perfectly from day one. I have not compared my numbers to another "professional" unit, but all the reports I have seen that compare the numbers seem to indicate that the TechEdge units read about the same as the more expensive ones.
I think the FUD related to the DIY widebands is undeserved for the pre-built units, and may be primarily aimed at the build-it-yourself kits. Although I replaced one of the resistors on my board for more accurate logging numbers with both the display and the Datalogit connected, and it doesn't look very difficult to assemble to me.
The FJO and other units are also great, but I don't think anyone should be afraid of the TechEdge units. That's my experience, and I hope that it will balance out some of the doubts that have been expressed about the TechEdge systems. There are many people using the TechEdge systems on the Datalogit list with excellent results.
-Max
I think the FUD related to the DIY widebands is undeserved for the pre-built units, and may be primarily aimed at the build-it-yourself kits. Although I replaced one of the resistors on my board for more accurate logging numbers with both the display and the Datalogit connected, and it doesn't look very difficult to assemble to me.
The FJO and other units are also great, but I don't think anyone should be afraid of the TechEdge units. That's my experience, and I hope that it will balance out some of the doubts that have been expressed about the TechEdge systems. There are many people using the TechEdge systems on the Datalogit list with excellent results.
-Max
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