Wideband install help
02-13-08, 09:01 PM
#1
Wideband install help
I just got my Innovative LC-1 wideband with the DB gauge. I got everything hooked up (bung verticle). my kit was missing the software but i dont need it since im not dataloging or anything. The LED light is also missing.
I followed the quick strart instruction. now when i turn the car on it only reads 10.3 at any RPM or jumps to 9.2 or 7.6. When the car is off it reads a whole bunch of #;s then goes to 7.6. I doubt this is from the LED light but could it be?
Also, the quick instruction says yellow or brown wire goes to the blue gauge cable. I used the yellow.... Does it matter? I hid all the wires behind the footrest so its not easy to switch it but if it comes down to it I will.
One more question.. how many of you guys have been using the LC-1 for a while sucessfully without any problems and wrong AFR readings?? The only bad thing about buying a Wideband is being super paranoid wiht my AFR's always watching them.
I followed the quick strart instruction. now when i turn the car on it only reads 10.3 at any RPM or jumps to 9.2 or 7.6. When the car is off it reads a whole bunch of #;s then goes to 7.6. I doubt this is from the LED light but could it be?
Also, the quick instruction says yellow or brown wire goes to the blue gauge cable. I used the yellow.... Does it matter? I hid all the wires behind the footrest so its not easy to switch it but if it comes down to it I will.
One more question.. how many of you guys have been using the LC-1 for a while sucessfully without any problems and wrong AFR readings?? The only bad thing about buying a Wideband is being super paranoid wiht my AFR's always watching them.
02-14-08, 08:21 AM
#2
Warming the planet.
The brown wire is factory programed for the DB gauge. So you've got two choices, you could reprogram the yellow wire for the proper output or switch the wire.
Paul
Paul
02-14-08, 12:51 PM
#4
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
Have you downloaded the LC-1 FAQ from Innovative.com?
I have yet to install mine, but innovative seems to be pretty good about taking care of their customers.
Check it out. Also, if you are missing the calibration pushbutton/LED you can still essentially hotwire your calibration wire to work. I'm at work right now and don't have the FAQ in front of me to explain how to do it though.
Did you calibrate your LC-1 to free air before putting it into the DP??
I have yet to install mine, but innovative seems to be pretty good about taking care of their customers.
Check it out. Also, if you are missing the calibration pushbutton/LED you can still essentially hotwire your calibration wire to work. I'm at work right now and don't have the FAQ in front of me to explain how to do it though.
Did you calibrate your LC-1 to free air before putting it into the DP??
02-14-08, 03:09 PM
#6
I bought it straight from Innovative. When you say programs, how do you do that? If the brown is pre-programed Ill switch to that.
Now, since i didnt have the intructions i was alittle confused on the wiring. This is what i did.
-Red-12v (cigar fuse)
-white,blue & black-same ground. I put the push button in-between the ground and black wire.
-yellow-gauge which i will switch to brown so yellow will be nothing.
For the callibration, i turn the key to ignition push the button, then wait 20 seconds?
I did leave the sensor out for the first callibration which was like 2 minutes in ignition. I had no LED though to know if it worked..... SO i dont know for sure if it callibrated or not.
Im going to check out the website for the full instructions tonight. Thanks for all the help guys. I HATE ELECTRICAL WORK.
Now, since i didnt have the intructions i was alittle confused on the wiring. This is what i did.
-Red-12v (cigar fuse)
-white,blue & black-same ground. I put the push button in-between the ground and black wire.
-yellow-gauge which i will switch to brown so yellow will be nothing.
For the callibration, i turn the key to ignition push the button, then wait 20 seconds?
I did leave the sensor out for the first callibration which was like 2 minutes in ignition. I had no LED though to know if it worked..... SO i dont know for sure if it callibrated or not.
Im going to check out the website for the full instructions tonight. Thanks for all the help guys. I HATE ELECTRICAL WORK.
02-14-08, 05:24 PM
#7
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
Same, and I suck at it.. which is the main reason why mine is still sitting on the shelf in my garage, not in my car (that and I am STILL waiting on the gauge pod I ordered from rx7store back in November...)
It says in the manual that the black wire is not required if you are using the XD-1 gauge, you should isolate and tape the black (calibration) wire out of the way.
I hope this helps, I copy/pasted from the LC-1 Manual I downloaded.
It says in the manual that the black wire is not required if you are using the XD-1 gauge, you should isolate and tape the black (calibration) wire out of the way.
1. Find a suitable location under your vehicle where the LC-1 body can be mounted. Using
zip ties or other suitable method, fasten the body of the LC-1 device securely to the framerails
or other mounting points as far away from the heat of the exhaust system as the sensor
cable allows. DO NOT zip-tie the LC-1 by the cables.
2. Route the cables from the LC-1 (except sensor cable) into the car interior under the dash.
3. LC-1 Cable connections:
A. Interface and power cables with 6 stripped ends*:
a. Red 12V supply
b. Blue Heater Ground
c. Metallic System Ground
d. Yellow Analog out 1
e. Brown Analog out 2
f. Black Calibration wire
B. Serial In connection, 2.5mm stereo (female) marked as IN
C. Serial Out connection, 2.5 mm stereo (female) marked as OUT.
* 3.1 If you have an LC-1 with only 7 stripped ends the wiring is as follows:
a. Red 12V supply
b. Blue Heater Ground
c. White System Ground
d. Yellow Analog out 1
e. Brown Analog out 2
f. Green Analog Ground
g. Black Calibration wire
4. Connect the RED wire to a switched 12V source in your car. A switched 12V source
goes on as soon as the ignition on the car is on. Make sure the connection is fused with a
minimum fuse size of 5A.
5. The BLUE and WHITE wires should all be grounded to the same ground source and
although these grounds are of the same source, the BLUE wire should be wired separate
from the WHITE wire to avoid analog ground noise. Optimally, these (and any other MTS
device ground) will be soldered to the same lug, and connected to a single point. When this
isn’t possible, connect each one to a separate lug, and attach in close proximity. Multiple
lugs on the same bolt is not optimal, and can result in unwanted signal “noise.” When
possible, soldering is always better than crimping
6. Optionally, the YELLOW (Analog out 1) and/or BROWN (Analog out 2) can be connected
to the analog inputs of other devices such as data loggers and ECUs. If either one or both of
these wires are not being used isolate and tape the wire(s) out of the way. The default analog
outputs are as follows: Analog output one is 1.1V = 14 AFR and .1V = 15 AFR. This is a
simulated narrowband signal. Analog output two is setup as 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39
AFR. Note: The LC-1’s heater ground and system ground wires should be grounded at
the analog input’s ground. Refer to chapter 2.2 for recommended wiring schematics.
7. Optionally connect a momentary push-button switch between ground and the BLACK
calibration wire. Please refer to section 2.1.
Note: The use of the calibration wire is not necessary if the LC-1 is connected to Innovate
Motorsports’ XD-1 digital gauge. If the wire is not are not being used, isolate and tape the
wire out of the way.
- 5 -
8. Optionally connect a indication LED (1.2-2.2V, 1-30mA is recommended) between the
calibration wire and ground. Please refer to section 2.1
3 First Time Use
1. Do not connect the sensor yet.
2. Switch 12V supply to the LC-1 on and wait for 10 seconds.
3. Switch the 12V supply off after 10 seconds.
4. Connect the sensor to the sensor interface connector. The sensor must be exposed to air for the first time calibration.
5. Switch the LC-1 on and wait for 2 minutes.
If you connected a LED to the calibration button, you will at first see the LED blink slowly and
steadily. If it blinks for a fixed number of pulses, then switches off for 2 seconds and then repeats,
you have an error code. See Appendixfor details.
Slow and steady blinking indicates that the sensor is warming up to its optimum operating
temperature. The warm-up period will last for about 30 seconds for a cold sensor, depending on
the sensor type used.
After the sensor is warmed up the meter automatically calibrates the sensor heater controller to
the particular sensor. During this 20-second period the LC-1 collects and calculates sensor
specific data required to quickly reach operating temperature in the future. After the first time use
the meter will use these values to regulate the sensor's temperature. During the heater calibration
the optional LED will blink fast and steady.
After that period the LC-1 will automatically perform a free air calibration. During this 2 second
period a connected LED will go off. The LC-1 will now calibrate itself by using air as a reference
gas with known oxygen content.
After the free air calibration is finished the LED should light up steady and continuously,
indicating correct operation of the LC-1. I know this part isn't as useful since you don't have the LED
4 Calibration
There are two types of calibration for the LC-1: free air calibration and sensor heater calibration.
Sensor heater calibration and first free air calibration is automatically performed the first time a
new sensor is used, while free air calibration should be executed frequently.
4.1 Free air calibration
To achieve maximum precision, the LC-1 and its sensor needs to be recalibrated frequently.
The sensor MUST be operated in free air for calibration.
If the wide-band sensor is installed in a vehicle, wait 6-8 hours after running the engine so that all
exhaust gas is dissipated from the exhaust tract of the vehicle. Better yet, disengage the oxygen
sensor and expose the sensor to air (away from the exhaust) for calibration purposes:
1. Connect the LC-1 to 12V from the vehicle and switch it on.
2. After the sensor has warmed up, either press the pushbutton or connect the calibration wire
to ground for a brief period.
3. After the calibration is complete, switch the LC-1 off and wait for 30 seconds before you start
the car.
If a LED indicator is connected to the calibration wire, it will be off during free air calibration.
4.2 Sensor heater calibration
If you change the sensor – either with a replacement sensor or a new type of sensor --, the
heater circuit of the LC-1 needs to be recalibrated as well. (See steps in chapter 4 'First Time
- 10 -
Use'). The heater calibration data in the LC-1 will be reset when the device is operated from 12V
without a sensor connected for at least 5 seconds. You can force a reset by doing this, and then
recalibrate by turning the unit off, reconnecting the sensor, and turning the unit on.
After the sensor is warmed up the meter automatically calibrates the sensor heater controller to
the particular sensor. During this 20-second period the LC-1 collects and calculates sensorspecific
data required to quickly reach operating temperature in the future.
Note: When using the Bosch Sensors the LC-1 may perform multiple calibration passes.
This is normal and need not cause concern. When it completes, the LC-1 also will perform
a free air calibration. Make sure the sensor is operating in free air for the heater and free
air calibration.
zip ties or other suitable method, fasten the body of the LC-1 device securely to the framerails
or other mounting points as far away from the heat of the exhaust system as the sensor
cable allows. DO NOT zip-tie the LC-1 by the cables.
2. Route the cables from the LC-1 (except sensor cable) into the car interior under the dash.
3. LC-1 Cable connections:
A. Interface and power cables with 6 stripped ends*:
a. Red 12V supply
b. Blue Heater Ground
c. Metallic System Ground
d. Yellow Analog out 1
e. Brown Analog out 2
f. Black Calibration wire
B. Serial In connection, 2.5mm stereo (female) marked as IN
C. Serial Out connection, 2.5 mm stereo (female) marked as OUT.
* 3.1 If you have an LC-1 with only 7 stripped ends the wiring is as follows:
a. Red 12V supply
b. Blue Heater Ground
c. White System Ground
d. Yellow Analog out 1
e. Brown Analog out 2
f. Green Analog Ground
g. Black Calibration wire
4. Connect the RED wire to a switched 12V source in your car. A switched 12V source
goes on as soon as the ignition on the car is on. Make sure the connection is fused with a
minimum fuse size of 5A.
5. The BLUE and WHITE wires should all be grounded to the same ground source and
although these grounds are of the same source, the BLUE wire should be wired separate
from the WHITE wire to avoid analog ground noise. Optimally, these (and any other MTS
device ground) will be soldered to the same lug, and connected to a single point. When this
isn’t possible, connect each one to a separate lug, and attach in close proximity. Multiple
lugs on the same bolt is not optimal, and can result in unwanted signal “noise.” When
possible, soldering is always better than crimping
6. Optionally, the YELLOW (Analog out 1) and/or BROWN (Analog out 2) can be connected
to the analog inputs of other devices such as data loggers and ECUs. If either one or both of
these wires are not being used isolate and tape the wire(s) out of the way. The default analog
outputs are as follows: Analog output one is 1.1V = 14 AFR and .1V = 15 AFR. This is a
simulated narrowband signal. Analog output two is setup as 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39
AFR. Note: The LC-1’s heater ground and system ground wires should be grounded at
the analog input’s ground. Refer to chapter 2.2 for recommended wiring schematics.
7. Optionally connect a momentary push-button switch between ground and the BLACK
calibration wire. Please refer to section 2.1.
Note: The use of the calibration wire is not necessary if the LC-1 is connected to Innovate
Motorsports’ XD-1 digital gauge. If the wire is not are not being used, isolate and tape the
wire out of the way.
- 5 -
8. Optionally connect a indication LED (1.2-2.2V, 1-30mA is recommended) between the
calibration wire and ground. Please refer to section 2.1
3 First Time Use
1. Do not connect the sensor yet.
2. Switch 12V supply to the LC-1 on and wait for 10 seconds.
3. Switch the 12V supply off after 10 seconds.
4. Connect the sensor to the sensor interface connector. The sensor must be exposed to air for the first time calibration.
5. Switch the LC-1 on and wait for 2 minutes.
If you connected a LED to the calibration button, you will at first see the LED blink slowly and
steadily. If it blinks for a fixed number of pulses, then switches off for 2 seconds and then repeats,
you have an error code. See Appendixfor details.
Slow and steady blinking indicates that the sensor is warming up to its optimum operating
temperature. The warm-up period will last for about 30 seconds for a cold sensor, depending on
the sensor type used.
After the sensor is warmed up the meter automatically calibrates the sensor heater controller to
the particular sensor. During this 20-second period the LC-1 collects and calculates sensor
specific data required to quickly reach operating temperature in the future. After the first time use
the meter will use these values to regulate the sensor's temperature. During the heater calibration
the optional LED will blink fast and steady.
After that period the LC-1 will automatically perform a free air calibration. During this 2 second
period a connected LED will go off. The LC-1 will now calibrate itself by using air as a reference
gas with known oxygen content.
After the free air calibration is finished the LED should light up steady and continuously,
indicating correct operation of the LC-1. I know this part isn't as useful since you don't have the LED
4 Calibration
There are two types of calibration for the LC-1: free air calibration and sensor heater calibration.
Sensor heater calibration and first free air calibration is automatically performed the first time a
new sensor is used, while free air calibration should be executed frequently.
4.1 Free air calibration
To achieve maximum precision, the LC-1 and its sensor needs to be recalibrated frequently.
The sensor MUST be operated in free air for calibration.
If the wide-band sensor is installed in a vehicle, wait 6-8 hours after running the engine so that all
exhaust gas is dissipated from the exhaust tract of the vehicle. Better yet, disengage the oxygen
sensor and expose the sensor to air (away from the exhaust) for calibration purposes:
1. Connect the LC-1 to 12V from the vehicle and switch it on.
2. After the sensor has warmed up, either press the pushbutton or connect the calibration wire
to ground for a brief period.
3. After the calibration is complete, switch the LC-1 off and wait for 30 seconds before you start
the car.
If a LED indicator is connected to the calibration wire, it will be off during free air calibration.
4.2 Sensor heater calibration
If you change the sensor – either with a replacement sensor or a new type of sensor --, the
heater circuit of the LC-1 needs to be recalibrated as well. (See steps in chapter 4 'First Time
- 10 -
Use'). The heater calibration data in the LC-1 will be reset when the device is operated from 12V
without a sensor connected for at least 5 seconds. You can force a reset by doing this, and then
recalibrate by turning the unit off, reconnecting the sensor, and turning the unit on.
After the sensor is warmed up the meter automatically calibrates the sensor heater controller to
the particular sensor. During this 20-second period the LC-1 collects and calculates sensorspecific
data required to quickly reach operating temperature in the future.
Note: When using the Bosch Sensors the LC-1 may perform multiple calibration passes.
This is normal and need not cause concern. When it completes, the LC-1 also will perform
a free air calibration. Make sure the sensor is operating in free air for the heater and free
air calibration.
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02-14-08, 05:48 PM
#8
Thanks a lot for the instructions. Cleared a lot of things up.
Couple things i want to get clarified.
When it says wait for the sensor to warm up, this is with the car off correct? should take 2 minutes im guessing. Also, when it is warmed up i just push it ounce and thats it?
Ill give it a try tonight and let you guys know.
Couple things i want to get clarified.
When it says wait for the sensor to warm up, this is with the car off correct? should take 2 minutes im guessing. Also, when it is warmed up i just push it ounce and thats it?
Ill give it a try tonight and let you guys know.
02-16-08, 03:31 PM
#9
I recalibrated the gauge and i used the brown gaguge wire and now it seems to work. Readings are around 13 at idle and change when i tap the gas. I cant drive it with the gauge since im waiting for a gauge pod. I hope it reads correctly! Im also going to do a full calibration with the sensor out after its all set.
02-16-08, 05:45 PM
#10
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Best advice I can give is download the LC-1 manual from Innovate - they have all their manuals on their site. READ IT all the way through. There's a lot to that gauge, and you really need to understand it.
Also, grounds are VERY important, all the grounds have to be top quality for everything to work as it should. You want to be able to rely on the gauge's output, so take the time and make sure everything is done right.
Dale
Also, grounds are VERY important, all the grounds have to be top quality for everything to work as it should. You want to be able to rely on the gauge's output, so take the time and make sure everything is done right.
Dale
02-16-08, 08:35 PM
#11
Best advice I can give is download the LC-1 manual from Innovate - they have all their manuals on their site. READ IT all the way through. There's a lot to that gauge, and you really need to understand it.
Also, grounds are VERY important, all the grounds have to be top quality for everything to work as it should. You want to be able to rely on the gauge's output, so take the time and make sure everything is done right.
Dale
Also, grounds are VERY important, all the grounds have to be top quality for everything to work as it should. You want to be able to rely on the gauge's output, so take the time and make sure everything is done right.
Dale
For the ground, i drilled a whole behind the clutch/carpet, sanded everything down and squeezed all the ground for the wideband in, then drilling a small screw in to keep them in place. im thinking of running a ground cable from the battery to the firewall to help out the ground for the wideband.
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