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Why not drive an FD in the snow?

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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 06:28 PM
  #26  
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I know it's not my place to tell *others* when they can drive their cars but come on..

Cars like an FD, Supra, 300zx etc. are not dime-a-dozen cars. They were built for the road with performance in mind.

Have some respect and keep the few that are left off of the salt and snowy roads. where the probability of getting hit is 10x worse than a summers day (I know anything could happen ANYTIME you drive but get real...the probability is much worse in adverse conditions).

Despite the car not having any feelings and being a chunk of metal; I think they "deserve" better treatment.
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 09:00 PM
  #27  
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Oh come on guys, you make it sound like hell that will utterly destroy the car, no matter what. I've been driving my FC rust and accident free for 6yrs now.

Sure other driver are a danger, but they always are.

If you can wash your car well (underneath too) after a good salting, you won't get corrosive problems. Plus, you can get it rubberized and paint sealed to stop rust. Luckily, I work at a dealership and have access to a high-quality pressure wash system and detailing equip. I also get a huge discount on rust-proofing .
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 10:28 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by dre_2ooo
Oh come on guys, you make it sound like hell that will utterly destroy the car, no matter what. I've been driving my FC rust and accident free for 6yrs now.

Sure other driver are a danger, but they always are.

If you can wash your car well (underneath too) after a good salting, you won't get corrosive problems. Plus, you can get it rubberized and paint sealed to stop rust. Luckily, I work at a dealership and have access to a high-quality pressure wash system and detailing equip. I also get a huge discount on rust-proofing .
Or you can keep the FD inside the garage dry and salt free and drive a cheap AWD beater in the snow and not have to worry about other drivers, corrosion, washing the car after driving it, having to buy snow tires, and risking getting stuck or high centered on a a snowbank :P
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 10:41 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by dre_2ooo
Oh come on guys, you make it sound like hell that will utterly destroy the car, no matter what. I've been driving my FC rust and accident free for 6yrs now.

Sure other driver are a danger, but they always are.

If you can wash your car well (underneath too) after a good salting, you won't get corrosive problems. Plus, you can get it rubberized and paint sealed to stop rust. Luckily, I work at a dealership and have access to a high-quality pressure wash system and detailing equip. I also get a huge discount on rust-proofing .
Maybe I'm paranoid about salt, but when I started driving sports cars in the '60's, they would rust/corrode after ANY salt exposure. My Triumph TR4 had its fenders literally fall off. My '79 Datsun 240Z showed signs of rust after one winter, and i never exposed it to salt again. On more modern cars, the effects might not be where you can see it, but it will eventually have a bad result.

Dave
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 11:20 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ArmitageGVR4
Or you can keep the FD inside the garage dry and salt free and drive a cheap AWD beater in the snow and not have to worry about other drivers, corrosion, washing the car after driving it, having to buy snow tires, and risking getting stuck or high centered on a a snowbank :P
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 11:50 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by dre_2ooo
Oh come on guys, you make it sound like hell that will utterly destroy the car, no matter what. I've been driving my FC rust and accident free for 6yrs now.

Sure other driver are a danger, but they always are.
It definitely adds up. I think a daily driver/winter beater makes a lot of sense.

If you can wash your car well (underneath too) after a good salting, you won't get corrosive problems. Plus, you can get it rubberized and paint sealed to stop rust. Luckily, I work at a dealership and have access to a high-quality pressure wash system and detailing equip. I also get a huge discount on rust-proofing .
Well,....

I don't have all that. I'll stick with using another car. Less stress, lower insurance, etc, etc.

Dave
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 12:18 PM
  #32  
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My winter beater for the past 3 years has been one DSM or another... while I am not their biggest fan on dry pavement, there is not much that beats a DSM on snows in the bad ****.

My current one is a '92 TSI AWD with a FMIC, upgraded turbo, etc... about 320 WHP worth... I think stock ones are a bit better in snow because you have more lowend torque, but this one isn't too bad. I think it's 0-60 time would still be well under 7 seconds in 4" of snow. About 3 weeks ago we got dumped on this year and I had to drive 40 miles through the absolute worst of it - it was snowing like crazy and there were HUGE drifts across some of the roads, a few went up to the door sills, the car just pushed them out of the way like it was nothing... just stayed in 2nd/3rd gear at lower RPM and it powered through it all. By the time I got hime the car had at least 250lb of snow/ice on the bottom, but hey, it got me here. I even saw a tractor stuck in one of them, but I managed to get through.

Before the dsm's I always drove a 1st gen in the winter, and man, they are pretty good in snow but nothing compared to an AWD.

My point is this: I'm sure you can drive an FD in the snow, but it's not the proper tool for the job.
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 06:41 PM
  #33  
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holy ****! wwwwwwwwwwwwwow.
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 07:46 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Terrh
My current one is a '92 TSI AWD with a FMIC, upgraded turbo, etc... about 320 WHP worth... I think stock ones are a bit better in snow because you have more lowend torque, but this one isn't too bad. I think it's 0-60 time would still be well under 7 seconds in 4" of snow. About 3 weeks ago we got dumped on this year and I had to drive 40 miles through the absolute worst of it - it was snowing like crazy and there were HUGE drifts across some of the roads, a few went up to the door sills, the car just pushed them out of the way like it was nothing... just stayed in 2nd/3rd gear at lower RPM and it powered through it all. By the time I got hime the car had at least 250lb of snow/ice on the bottom, but hey, it got me here. I even saw a tractor stuck in one of them, but I managed to get through.
Whoa, what kind of tires were you using?

Dave
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