Where else can the shop manual be located because that link is not working for me

 

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/shop_manual.html

 

sorry to say it but I have the same problem(low boost). When I bought the car though it had a blown engine, so a lot of coolant got dumped into the cat(could be the problem, haven't had time to check), but my car is also running very rich, points to numerous related and unrelated problems. Does this jump out at anybody as something specific? If not I'll just try everything mentioned above.

 

Jalers- Did I overlook your numbers for the tests?

You need at least 15" of vacuum from the vac chamber and 7.5 PSI pressure from the pressure chamber.

Have you tested them for these numbers yet? Do you know how?

These forces are required to force open the Turbo Control Actuator fully. It could only be opening partially/sluggishly

 

Does anyone know where the body electrical chapter is? It is refenced in the body chapter, but I've never seen it. Is it part of one of the other pdf files and I'm just oblivious?

THanks

 

Jalers- Hvae you confirmed that the Turbo Control rod is connected to the Turbo Control Actuator and is moving?

Make sure that the clip has not disconnected from the Turbo Control (TC) actuator arm and the Turbo Control (TC) valve. I have heard and read a few cases of this. It could be this simple.

 

Going to check mine right now as well. No transition to secondary at all, still. Just "bogggg!"-noise If it's as simple as a stupid rod clip popping off I'm gonna be pissed.

 

Any progress?

 

What's up? What happened? Problem solved? The problem with these threads is tha no one ever comes back to say if the problem was solved. I have the same exact problem after a vac hose job. I'm sittin here reading through this long thread, but no answer. Come on people, what's the use of search when no one ever comes back with a solution. All I ever read is "did you do a search?" Hell, I did, but look what hapenes. People don't follow up.

 

r71

email me and lets see if we can figure it out.

technonovice@yahoo.com

 

The source of your frustration is why I stopped visiting the forum. I'd spend a lot of time offering advice that very few would listen to. There are more qualified folks who still post on the forum. I saw your post because I had subcribed to that thread many months ago.

Do you have a factory service manual? A good diagram of the vacuum system?

 

I just finished a hose job. Here's the problem:

Boost pattern 9-8-8,7,6,5 steady. The primary spools up fine. In all gears, the boost settles at 5psi after 4500-5000.

When under load, say above 4500, if I let off the throttle, and give it gas again, all over 4500, the car will not boost. I hear the CRV, I think, letting out air. If I let it idle back down under 4500 and give it gas, it it will see boost. This takes me out of any sort of drag racing because shifting occurs above 4500 and I have no boost when throttle is reapplied after shifting.

I checked the hoses at leaset 3 times one by one. My back is killing me. I can take the UIM off in less than 10 mins. At least something good came out of it.

Anyhow, because I forgot to test the solenoids while the rack was out, I disconnected all the solenoids, applied 12v to each and heard everyone click. I know they could fail when hot, but only other way is to cook them and test. That means i would have to take the rack out again. I might just do that.


Other things I tested.

Vacuum chamber - holds vacuum
Press chamber - holds pressure
CRV - seems to work. - apply vacuum at the nipple, it opens up. Otherwise no leak.
BOV - same as CRV
The all popular clip on the TCA is in place.


The car is apart at the moment. Any other tests I can perform while the UIM is off. I will do the T'ing into the CRV and the pressure tank after I put the car back together.

Here is what I have on the car.
F-Con, DP, Hi flo Cat, Cat back, Blits intake, Twin power.

Thanks for any input.

 

I am having the same exact problem. Sometimes boost works, and when it doesn't, same exact symptoms as mentioned above. I am just going non-sequential to get rid of all my problems.

 

Are you saying that there is NO (0 psi) boost or no secondary boost exident (5 psi or so) when you lift off and and reapply throttle all above 4500 rpms?

And how much boost do you see when it dips below 45oo rpms?

 

"The car is apart at the moment. Any other tests I can perform while the UIM is off. "

I would highly recommend testing the turbo control solenoid while you have it available. I'm talking about the one that's bolted to the ACV, and controls the vacuum side of the turbo control actuator. This solenoid gets damaged by the heat, and several people have found it to be bad, including me.

I put mine on the bench and clipped an Ohm meter to the coil of the solenoid. This should read in the low 30 Ohm range. Next, I took a heat gun, and started warming the solenoid. In just a minute or so, the coil went from about 35 Ohms, to open circuit. It was amazing, and completely repeatable- room temp=good, hot=bad. After changing that solenoid, my intermittent secondary problems were gone. It may not be your problem, but it's so easy to check since you have the UIM off.

Good luck,

 

Thanks, I will try that.

 

Wow! that's scary. I would never have thought to check that. So whenever I check any solenoids, maybe I should do this heat sensitivity test? Are other solenoids just as likely to fail like this, or just the turbo control?

 

I'd like to take credit for figuring this out, but someone else suggested it to me. I think it was SpooledUP7. I'm embarrassed to say that I ignored his advice when I originally did the hose job. The hoses fixed most of my problems, but I was still left with the intermittent lack of secondary boost. Next time I pulled the UIM (to change ignition coils), I made a point of checking the solenoid.

It's been suggested that the Turbo Control solenoid suffers from this heat problem worse than others, because it's bolted to the ACV. That's likely to be true, though I would certainly check every solenoid if I had them out.

Cheers,

 

No boost if I lift off and reapply above 4500. If it dips below 4500, then boost 9-10 psi, but then when it passes 4500, slow creep down to 5psi and holds.

 

You hit the spot. When I heated the solenoid, it opened. When cooled, it closed back up. I was too exited to find this so the car's not put back together yet. I'll go do that now and post the results. One more thing,

Turbo control Solenoid:
No power-Applied vacuum to the bottom nipple - Holds good pressure.

No power-Applied vacuum to upper nipple with the back nipple, the metal one with the cap on, blocked off with finger-does not hold pressure.

Is this okay?

 

Sorry, the above solenoid tested is the new one, not the bad one.

 

I know what you mean. I was pretty excited when I found mine too. With any luck, that will be your only problem.

Cheers,

 

Well, I finally put the car back together. It's still not working. I really want to stay seq. because I like the quickness, but that non-seq is looking pretty good right now.

The turbo control solenoid was bad. I replaced it with a new one. I'm still seeing 9-8-5. It's a little better in 4th. But in third, it's stuck on 5psi when the sencond kicks in.
I'm going to clean out the cat today. Anyone might think this could be the prob? I've heard someone say that if the cat is clogged, this boost pattern could appear.

Could the turbos be bad? What are the signs of turbos not working prop? I can actually hear the second spooling up. Something is not keeping the CRV shut above 4500. I can actually hear the CRV releasing the air, but the CRV is not bad. Oh yeah, I already replaced the Charge relief solenoid. My gut tells me it's got to be a minor prob. I've already checked all the solenoids, but is there a specific one I should be paying attention to that could cause this boost pattern?

It can't be a leak in the system. I checked everthing. Hoses, pipes, I/C, got all new clamps.

Any further ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all that helped so far.

 

I'm not much good without my FSM and notes. They are packed up in a room full of boxes, but here is a shot or two.

I doubt it is the cat or your turbos, but .... Lots of smoke and/or noise can indicate a bad turbo.

Did you double check the one way check valves for operation and proper direction?

Are you using a pressure/vacuum pump to to troubleshoot?

Did you test the new Turbo Control Solenoid? Aren't there 2 that actuate the TCA? One that applies pressure and the other applies vacuum. If one of them is faulty then that could still be a problem. Since you say it is slightly better in 4th that makes me think the problem could still be here.

Is the Charge Control opening above 4500 rpm as it should? At 5psi I'm not sure that you are getting ANY secondary boost.There are two hoses on this actuator with one side connected to the Charge Control Solenoid and the other side to the Primary Compressor. At 4,500 RPM the Charge Control Solenoid switches and changes from the Vacuum Chamber to the Secondary Compressor. Once the Secondary Turbo is producing the same or more Boost than the Primary Turbo, the Charge Control Actuator's spring will allow the it to open, allowing the both the Primary and Secondary Turbo provide boost. The vacuum is supplied by the vacuum chamber and a faulty chamber would allow the CCA to open premature. I don't think this is the problem though.

Is the Charge Relief closing?

Wastegate overventing?

You could do this test to see if you can get full boost:
http://www.msccnc.org/article.asp?article=1

[Mazda Sports Car Club of NC]
Club Information Member List Current Articles This month's calendar
Mazda USA
Lightning in a World of Thunder
Title:Nonsequential Turbo Conversion
Date:11/27/2001
Author:Ashraf Farrag

Time estimate: 30 mins to 1 hour, depending on how familiar you are with the car
Bottom of car

1. Jack up car and put on jackstands
2. Underneath the car you pull the clip off the pre-control and turbo control actuators.
3. Move the turbo control valve on the turbo to the front of the car, fasten with safety wire or or lodge it in place next to the actuator's rod (takes some manipulation) such that it stays open (again, when the valve on the turbo is pulled towards the front of the car, the TC valve is open)
4. Move the precontrol valve to the rear of the car and fasten with safety wire (optional...the TC is all that runs the car above 4500, PC is actually closed)

On top of car

1. Disconnect two vacuum lines going to charge control actuator and plug them off (a bolt or golf tee)
2. Safety wire the charge control flapper open (with no hoses connected, it is in the open position)
3. Tee charge relief into the blow off valve's control line - i.e. they are both connected to a nipple on the intake manifold
4. Disconnect the lines going down to turbo control (under pressure tank and crossover pipe, next to the WG/PC lines) and cap them off. Since you've used wire to hold the TC valve open, you don't need the pressure/vac for the actuators
5. Disconnect the precontrol actuator vent line that goes to the solenoid -- this is so that you constantly vent the solenoid and the actuator arm doesn't move. You could also leave the clip on the PC actuator, and cap off the precontrol actuator vent.

This will tell you what is going on with the car. I was having issues with my y-pipe gaskets leaking, and lack of non-sequential to produce full boost lead me to start examining for boost leaks. There is an alternate way to do this, by using vacuum hoses and routing them to the actuators/bypass the solenoids, but that won't help if you have malfunctioning components (pressure tank, vac tank, check-valves, etc).

Be aware that you may tap fuel cut with a stock ECU, as the car wasn't designed to run this way. Also, if you have a full exhaust/intake, you'll be dealing with boost creep, just like everyone else. Standard disclaimer applies!
Best Viewed at 800x600 or greater, on Internet Explorer 5.0 or later, Copyright 2001 MSCCNC


-mf

 

Just finished the mod. I didn't wire the precontrol because it was optional. I also didn't wire the charge control actuator because it's already in an open state. Hope this doesn't screw it up. I'll report my findings after couple of runs. Thanks for the help.