What I like is his bad grammer is actually other words
caricaturists = cartoonist
characteristics = traits
conductions = transfer of energy
conditions = circumstances
(heat/electricity) through a solid object

I don't think that SAFC is what you want either. You should be looking at an Apex PowerFC or other replacement ECU.

 

How is your car doing with the relocated rats nest. I'd think its going to cause you to have a larger dip at transition and when you start trying to run higher boost your probably going to have problems with boost spikes cause your turbo control solenoids are so far from the actuators. If your having (or start to have) probs like I described you might want to move the turbo control solenoids over on the passenger fender so they will be real close to the actuators

If yourmain goal is to clean out under the uim you might want to try full non sequential OR you might just do the seq simplification, it eliminates all but 4 solenoids and a few vac lines with no rats nest so its easy to control and make look decent.

BTW - How does a driveability tech of 20 years miss somthing as easy as tire pressure???

STEPHEN

 

Sometimes when I here the sounds of "hooves" I think Zebras rather than horses. Thats why asking around for opinions is so so helpful. I have a lot of different stuff on my FD. For one I made my engine mounts. I spent some time analyzing the design and used some Jag mounts in place of the stock FD and they work perfect. I got new Jag mounts via Ebay for 25 dollars. Here is a mock up before the engine was installed.

http://members.***.net/stdotjohn/Rx7...ne%20mount.jpg

 

And not get payed for the more "complex" solution? HA!

 

J.S.J, I am glad that the low pressure in the tire was the issue. I also appreciate your saying that I know my stuff, I haven't heard that before. BTW, with the setups you are going with in your engine bay I must say that I think you do look to the "complex" solution first. Thanks for the look.

 

what was the reason for the "jag" mounts?

paul

 

I could not see spending that amount of money on something so simple to convert over. I also installed a powerful fan on my oil cooler. I used a full-size motor and a 9 inch fan blade. Cost 30 dollars. It now has the factory ducting and a shroud installed. It's in the original place but I had to remove my window washer fluid bottle.[IMG]I could not see spending that amount of money on something so simple to convert over. I also installed a powerful fan on my oil cooler. I used a full-size motor and a 9 inch fan blade. Cost 30 dollars. It now has the factory ducting and a shroud installed. It's in the original place but I had to remove my window washer fluid bottle.

 

This is for "PVerdieck", with all do respects
I used to spit out insults and realized it was because I really didn't understand the subject matter. The next step will just be regurgitating what I here. This step could be permanent.

 

I realize Pverdieck was right! That crack habit of mine must be catching up with me, sorry about that Crack Mr. Pverdieck.



(This is for "PVerdieck", with all do respects
I used to spit out insults and realized it was because I really didn't understand the subject matter. The next step will just be regurgitating what I here. This step could be permanent.)

 

SPOautos,
I agree with your ideas and will be looking close at the boost. I have not yet connected the hose to the charge relief valve (I think thats what its called) anyway the rear turbo just has a big vent as of now. I may not run as high as 10 psi. I may set it to 8 psi for now. I don't need to have that much power at this point. I think the factory set up is fine and I like the idea of having everything connected and working. Once I learn a bit more about how the system timing works I may have to do as you said. It is nice to have all the solenoids out in the open as well as the coils.

 

Hey, they look a lot better than hockey pucks-- and cheaper too!!

So, J.S.J., it was tire pressure, eh? Long term, I don't think that's the cause. I'm betting on the pull of the moon BTW, how did you duct the backside (fanside) of the oil cooler setup? Did you cut a vent into your fender liner, or use the ducting over the top of the fender liner?

 

The fan is small and flat so I thought about the exhaust side but it seems to vent fine out the sides surrounding the rear of the fan. I did remove the lower cover under it as well as the window washer bottle. I will be installing a set of oil temp gages but the system just by feeling the hard oil line after a few minutes of running is plenty effective.

http://members.***.net/stdotjohn/Oil...0car%20600.jpg

 

Before reading this thread I'd been noticing the exact same thing. The car would pull to the right under acceleration. I didn't even think of checking the tyres, I'd given up on checking them because they hadn't changed in pressure for the first year and half I had the car. But I went and checked them and the back right tyre was very low although it didn't look like it at all. Now it doesn't pull

 

I am glad to here you got some good out of the subject.
The idea of getting under the rear end and pawing around is not the most rewarding thing to do on a Saturday. I knew I had a tire with a nail or something in it but as you said it's not as noticeable as a 70 series tire would be. I was down to about 20 lbs. The sensation of the front end moving over at hard throttle was a strange on as well.