bajaman

John Chabin gave a link earlier, here it is again. There is a section detailing the 'O'-ring-fix-in-a-can.

It DOES work in a lot of cases.


http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/o-ring_failure.html

pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

SSR, you should know that the sensor for the gauge is not in contact with coolant but senses metal temperature directly. So if the gauge reads Hot, your engine is basically gone. Do a block weld but be prepared to write off your turbos, heater core and radiator.

johnchabin

iTrader: (2)

There is an old thread about the radiator clogging with block weld. Some great pics, too.

Rebuild now (provided you actually need it) or rebuild later + the cost of the items pomanferrari listed (plus a water pump).

pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

yes. do a search under my name for the term "proof that blockweld clogs radiator"

That was a year ago. I bought a reman from Malloy, installed very lomiles turbo and new radiator. It extended the life of my engine for about 6000 miles. It was still running but was sucking down a gallon of water every 10 miles. If I had a big enough water tank, I could have driven it to this day.

Upon tearing down, the front rotor had about 4-6 oz of water in it.

Fatman0203

The Link Doesnt Work :/

I have a gut feeling that I have a TINY leak thats why Im getting a bit of problems. BTW does it clog stock radiators or aftermarket? Will it work with an AST?

13Beast REW

In a less severe situation where say the moment the temp gauge began to rise, the motor was shut off, couldnt it just be the water pump?

SERIES7

If it was the water pump, you'd see a leak coming from the water pump's weep hole already.

fedupfd3

iTrader: (1)

Mine was boiling in the overflow bottle, a couple weeks ago. Replaced thermostat, filler/ast caps, water thermo switch and radiator. Problem solved for me, other things you might want to check.

Tim McCreary

Here's my story, I just installed my engine. Took it up the street about 1/10 mile and turned around. Upon return all the coolant threw up out of the overflow. Thought I had an air pocket. Scratched my head and filled it back up again. Did not overheat and no light came on while driving. Drove all day and as long as it was running, did not notice anything. Shut off and cooled down. Opened caps and fluid low. Added more fluid. Drove to work after driving about 1/2 hour no overheat and no light. Parked at work and came out after work and about 1/2 gal of fluid puked out the overflow. Scratched my ***** this time. Filled up and took it home. Kept an eye on it. Noticed that the fluid leaked out the seam between the neck and tank at the passenger headlight.

Finally studied the car and realized that I had a pressure cap on the engine and a fill cap on the AST. This was allowing the motor to heat up, expand the fluid with no resistance into the overflow where it would leak out to the ground. After shutting off, the gurgling noise would then start since the pressure cap was not holding the fluid in and it would puke about 1/2 gallon onto the ground.

Switched caps, (overfilled reserve). It threw up about 1 pint one day later from overfilling, then it has been holding ever since. NO fluid leak, NO overheating, NO light or buzzer.

Moral of the story: Make sure the pressure cap is on the AST and is sealing/working properly. If the AST is deleted, make sure the pressure cap is on the engine filler neck.

Also, the neck is the highest point. With the caps switched, I opened the fill cap and the fluid level would be at the top, then drain away. Why: Because without the pressure cap on the AST, the fluid would push through to the reserve tank (lower level) until the fluid level equallized.

Tim

PS The HIGH TEMPERATURE is because the sensor is reading the steam pocket temperature which is always very high compared to the fluid. This is also why when fluid starts flowing and pushes the air pocket away again, the temp drops very quickly to the fluid temperature level.