All things considered, rebuilding the motor itself isn't that hard. There are a few "gotchas" that you have to be aware of and make sure you do right, but it's relatively easy.

The hard part really isn't the motor itself, it's the 500 pounds of **** that's attached to the motor . I can't tell you how many times I've seen people scratch their head for ages trying to get a rebuilt motor to run.

You really need to be mechanically minded, know how to deal with gaskets and fasteners, and be patient enough to document, label, and organize everything. If you and a buddy rip into it one weekend, throw all the bolts in a coffee can, and store all the parts in a pile under the carport, don't expect it to be easy putting it back together .

Dale

 

I did mine, helped to have friends help out that had done it before. It's simple but gotta pay attention to details. Most difficult task was removing the front eshaft nut.

 

Yup, you need some serious foot-poundage for that one. One option (if you dont have any others) is to haul the motor in the bed of a truck to your local discount tire......they typically have a serious impact gun that will take it off

 

next time, whack it with a hammer about half a dozen times...that will help break the locktite, and then you can zip it off with an impact gun....if you don't have an impact, you poor bastard!!! they're more of a pain than the flywheel most of the time

 

im getting ready to do mine in the next upcoming weeks, i cant wait! i just still need to decide what apex seal im going to use

 

all you need is a cheap torch ($20) from the hardware store, then heat up the front bolt (remove the 4 10 mm bolts and pull the pulleys off) to about 300 degrees and the loctite will melt, then the bolt will come off eaisily. just remember to change the front main seal after getting it that hot.

Michael

 

stock 2 piece 2mm if it's a street car

 

yes street car, im aiming for 350-400whp, and want to be capable of running 15psi max with no problem. thats all i really want for now cause i still want to drive it around the streets. and just to factor in im getting the rotor housings street ported. still think the stock 2 piece would be the best??? just looking for an opinion

 

Yup, I recommend using stock seals. Keep in mind that I have been a shop owner for about the last year and have made this same recommendation to many happy customers......3mm opens up a can of worms, and all of the other seals are not proven/tested nearly as much as OEM ones.

Rich

 

HAHAHAHAHAHA
i was saying the e-shaft nut was soooo easy...i had a bitch 3rd gen last night.

i whacked it....no help
blow torch......no help
800lb impact gun and it kept smiling...

pipe wrench around the hub with a (wedged against the ground),
6 foot cheater bar on the breaker bar on the nut,

2 guys and 400 lbs of weight on the end of that 6 foot bar.... off it came.

yo!! that was a beeeyach!

for the record... my "helper" was 250 lbs of that 400

 

well thanks for the tip, and i will keep that in mind when it comes time to make the decision, which wont be too much longer

 

You and me GUITARJUNKIE28. That's about what I did after every muscle car shop around bragged about how their high pressure impact wrench would just zip it off, WRONG! no lol until we got it off

 

i know 93blackfd did