It depends on the type of turn.

Generally, I brake late (heel-n-toe downshift if necessary), make use of the Skip Barber "brake-turn-in" technique, and mash the gas once I can see through the turn, and track out, using all the track surface. Pretty simple really. The main thing is smoothness in transitions between braking, turning, accelerating. It's unbelievable how much practice you need to get this sequence just right, with minimal upset to the car's balance!

Also using good eye technique (looking ahead) is important, especially in heavy traffic. You need "soft eyes", when you're behind a slower car, so you don't focus on the car's rear bumper in front of you. You try to see "through" that car and anticipate what's going in front of the car in front of YOU!

 

These are BOTH BAD IDEAS! use only 10w-30 or 20w-50 Oils
(MAZDA recomends 10w-30 for all but the coldest temp ranges) the bearings in a rotary are very generously sized and don't need really heavy oil. use 20w-50 in an older engine with larger clearances to maintain oil pressure. Because of the additive package required to create a 10w40 oil it is THE WORST OIL to use in a rotary (or really any other motor for that matter)

The Mazda OEM filter is Very good and suprizingly not any more expensive then the premiun after market brands.

Most road racer actually run EXTRA oil in the sump to prevent oil starvation under high G + high RPM conditions. If you are getting lots of turbo oil blow-by into the intake it is because of bad oil seals, not too much oil in the sump. This can be reduced by putting a restrictor in the oil line to the turbo, The tyrbo bearings actually only require a minute amount of oil.
Also if that oil is leaking out of the intake that means you are leaking BOOST also and loosing power - Air will leak through a much smaller hole than oil will.

 

You have very good contenders !!

That's the technique that I use.

Keep having good fun

Thanks

 

Andrew:
Try running 60/40 Water/Coolant, Ethelyne Glycol based coolants (Prestone, Zyrex, Peak etc) work best in the range 60/40 to 50/50.
Tape off any gaps/ holes that allow air to bypass the Radiator. Check that the foam strip that seals the botom of the radiator to the undertray is in place.
Also check your waterpump, as they wear they cavitate more at high speed. get an underdrive pully as it actually improves the high rpm (over 5k) efficency of the pump (the pump is designed for max efficency at hwy speed w/ the stock pullies) and reduces parasitic drag.
Check your OIL coolers (Oil provides 30-40% of the cooling on a rotary)and straighten out ALL the bent fins - when I did mine it made a noticable diff in the temps.

 

Hmmm....been using 10W40 for 6 years, 92,000 miles, with no problems...perhaps you're exaggerating slightly

I held the same position you did for a long time with regard to oil levels. Everyone on the big list said to run 1 quart low, while I ran 1 quart high. It wasnt until I started getting really bad blow by (last season) that I ran 1 quart low.

I had the rear main seal replaced, the oil leaks aren't coming from there. Also had a bunch of other oil seals replaced.

You must be referring to the turbos' oil seals. JDMs twins are on the way, so perhaps my blow-by problems will go away with new twins. I gave that advice on 1 quart low based on the initial poster's mileage...he has 92,000 miles on his motor and turbos too (which means his turbos are probably going as well).

You're right about boost loss. I'm making 9 psi (barely), I'd say mostly 8 psi. Which is even more amazing how I'm turning very quick laptimes at Putnam Park (1:20 to 1:21. average FD does 1:25). Must be the Hoosier R3S03s and SSR Comps wheels!

 

Every thing I have read in regard to oils say first choice is SINGLE wt (but change w/ every season) then 10w-30, 20w-50 and last choice 10w-40
My MAZDA Manualls (Owners & Workshop) ONLY recomend 10w-30, or 5w-30 for very cold areas.

All the guys I run track events with say run oil level at FULL to Overfull by .5-1qt.

Yes I was refering to the turbo oil seals

Max

 

Hmmm, which single weight would you recommend for my tired 92,000-mile motor?

When I get new turbos, the oil blow-by should go "bye bye" and I'll be able to resume running 4 quarts YAY!

 

I wasn't recomending a single wt for a rotary per se but just from general referance materals - but for a purely Track driven car that is always FULLY warmed up Prior to driving a 30, 40, or 50 wt racing oil would do (depending on the ambient air temp)

 

I don't mean to be confrontational, I'm open to new ideas, but this is my understanding:

The idea behind running a low oil level on the track is to minimize oil drawn into the induction system. Under high G loads, oil enters the oil filler neck, and assisted by the vacuum on the PCV system, gets drawn through the PCV valve into the intake. Running slightly low on oil minimizes this, running a higher level encourages more oil going through the PCV system.

Some track regulars use oil catch cans mounted to the PCV line for just this reason.

As for oil starvation, the oil pan is baffled and the top of the oil pan is basically the bottom of the engine. The oil pickup should never be exposed even under the highest G loads. It isn't like a conventional piston engine with a crank just above the oil pan which allows oil to move into the crank area.

What level do I use? Conservatively 1/2 quart low for the track and full level on the street.

BTW, searching my most distant memories, 10W40 not a good choice. Why? Sorry, that's where my memory fails.



Mark

 

Yes, this is the reason for running it low (now I remember). I was having this problem, IN ADDITION to leaking turbo oil seals. Basically my engine bay is a mess after a day at the track!

OK, I'll need to switch to 20W50 or something. Makes sense, since my motor's on the old and worn side

 

For those of you with stock temp gauges, one way to gauge temperatures is to listen for the fans, low speed comes on at 221F and medium at 226F. Thats without A/C on. Judging from my old overheating days (), the stock gauge starts moving noticeably past halfway at 226, although contrary to other observations I can tell the difference between 180 and 220 on the stock gauge, its just a miniscule movement.

 

Mazda Motorsports catalog, recomends for racing to use 10% of antifreeze and the rest of destilated water and finishing racing go back to normal 50/50, as they said water has better cooling propeties

 

Manny,
I am ready - I just ordered my harnesses today and I have my wide gas pedal ready to install. I got the Simpson harnesses from Petitt - they clip on new factory location bolts and on the rear stut tower bar. I need the wide pedal to give it a little blip when I downshift after that long straight. It gets a little unstable because I could not heel and toe it before.
I was talking to Gene Harrington a year or so ago - I bought one of his Neon Challenge cars a few years ago for a street car - he said for road racing - " you need to be able to heel and toe and do threshold braking". Also - "the most important corner is the one before the longest straight away" Simple, yet challenging advice. The last corner at Putnam before the straight is pretty intimidating.

Charlie

 

Good for you!

I'm afraid, I won't be ready. It's a money thing. Too many high-dollar parts to replace, and not enough fundage to get the car ready in time.

It's just as well, since it will be a busy day for me getting everything going, and having the day flow smoothly for you all!

I will have to instruct, as well; I'm low on instructors. We have many novices this year!

I look forward to seeing you and the red R1 flying around Putnam Park in March!

 

WOW, you can read that much difference while your flying along at 130 mph down the main straight! You're GOOD! My fans don't kick on until I park the car with the ignition in the accessory position. It's running at a good clip. I don't notice any fan speeds except "low" and "high". There doesn't seem to be a "medium" speed with my fans??...

 

Is 10% antifreeze enough to lubricate the water pump seals? I'll probably compromise and run 20% antifreeze and 80% distilled water, with Redline water wetter, of course! I'd be too lazy to change it back for the road, so 80/20 might be my new summer mix

 

Manny,
That is too bad. I guess you will get enough rides in to make it fun. I was hoping to look at your car - do you have all the vacuum lines zip tied? I have not done that and need to find them all. I was talking to Pettit racing and they zip tie all of them except the one one top of the intake - so if it builds up it pops that one - like a fuse - easy to locate.
I ordered the boost hose upgrade, too. With that and the zip ties I should be set.

Charlie

 

My understanding is that 10% will not provide enough lubrication. However, water does cool much better than antifreeze, so on the track that's the priority. I guess in the end replacing a water pump is much easier and cheaper than rebuilding an engine

 

Actually, no I haven't had the vacuum hose job done yet. I'm of the old engineering school philosphy of, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"

Seriously, I have not have any of my vacuum hoses pop off. I still have the stock boost hoses, except I use SAMCO silicone couplers and heavy duty clamps.

I have had a leaky Y-pipe coupler, causing lots of oil smoke and sending only 8 psi boost to the manifold! Also had a radiator pop coming out of Mid Ohio's "Keyhole" cauing my motor to overheat instantly.

Vacuum lines popping off? Hasn't happened to my car....YET!

FWIW, I really don't like instructing "advanced" students. I get sick easily as a passenger. I'll have to take on a really slow student with a really slow car

 

Glad to see so many road-racers in our midst!

I've only raced mine once, at VIR (MADS last Fall). I ran the car straight off the street (with about 300 rwhp), except for swapping out my front pads with Hawk Blacks. Max water temps I saw were 220F, but slowed down for half a lap to bring it below 210 F (I'm very picky about the car's condition).

Planning on hitting MADS again in March.....

 

I used to get a lot of blow-by and smoke when I ran the oil full on the track. I just run it roughly halfway up the range on the dipstick. I switched to a single turbo, but I haven't tried running the oil full yet, so it might work or it might not. If it is overfilled (for the conditions at hand) it quickly works its way down to the "right" level and usually makes a mess and/or a disturbing amount of smoke.

My peak temp at Laguna in December 2000 was 188F. I couldn't believe it was that cool. I've done a lot of cooling prep (rad, oil coolers, sealed the ducting, synth oil, rotor housing cooling grooves, etc) but that was still quite a bit cooler than I expected. In August 2001, I overheated 3 times in 105F ambient at Willow Springs. The car would be fine (albeit with temps in the 220-230s) until I pulled off and then it would overheat as it sat running. In more reasonable ambient temps, I seem to peak at about 210-220F. I am going to try NPG+ coolant with stock main and WP pulleys, an AST and Koyo rad next, and I expect that it will still get hot but not boil the coolant away. I think it is okay to run somewhat hot as long as the temps don't change too quickly and the coolant doesn't boil away. I might even try a FMIC for lower intake temps if I can run without getting up into the 240s. I am trying to build the car so I can run 15 psi on the RX6 single all the time without detonation or overheating on the street or track. Wish me luck

-Max

 

Half way between "low" and "full" on the oil dipstick should be 1 quart, no? I think that's right?

When you say overheat, do you mean the factory temp gauge went to "H", or your REAL gauge read 240F?

105 ambient is pretty damned hot. I think I'd overheat inside the car with a driving suit and helmet!

I also have an under drive main pulley. I've read that this decreased the possibility of water pump cavitation (which causes air bubbles in the coolant lines)?

How do you know your coolant is boiling away? Do you check the level once the motor cools, and if it's low, then you've boiled it away?

Dude, Laguna is the sh*t! That's my dream track! I'm practicing virtually on Gran Turismo 3. Is turn 1 really THAT SLOW? The "Cork Screw" has got to be an absolute blast!

I hope to drive a real race car there when my sponsor finally gets his race team together (Speedvision World Challenge). I'm to be one of the 4 drivers he plans to have on board...at least that's what he tells me...we'll see if it really happens.

Timeline is 2004. Unfortunately I will NOT have an FD Rx7. I will be in an Alfa Romeo GT Spyder. He plans to campaign 2 Alfa Romeo cars...one in Touring the other in GT. The Touring car will be a 4-dr sedan with FWD. The GT car will be a 2-dr coupe with RWD. I can't drive FWD, so I have to drive the Alfa GT Spyder.

If you see Team Autosport Outfitters trailers (Indiana plates) with Alfa Romeo race cars at Laguna in 2004, that'll be us (hopefully)

Good luck with the build up! That's quite a tall order you've got going with the FD!

 

Hey,

These intakes that open up the slit between the frame rail and rad, how much do they hurt engine coolant cooling??? anyone seen temps increase with one of these style intakes??

Also, this tape trick to better seal off the radiator, how often do you have to redo the tape? is there a more permanent solution or does the duct tape work quite well?

Thanks,

Andrew Wojteczko
93 RX7 R1

 

The most permanent solution would be some sheetmetal across the openings, but I bet duct tape would last a long time and not be a pain to replace.

Glad to see the understanding here that water DOES cool better than anti-freeze. I have been trying to explain the idea of thermal exchange to people and they always tell me I have it backwards. I have heard in the past that 10% coolant is plenty, and that is what I run except in winter when I need the antifreeze.

 

>>These intakes that open up the slit between the frame rail and rad, how much do they hurt engine coolant cooling??? anyone seen temps increase with one of these style intakes?? <<

Dosen't make any diff - when you remove the foam it is OUTSIDE of the side radiator baffle on the undertray. ie you are drawing air from under the car not the rad duct