Hmmm... I have to disagree. Airpump engages only upto 3200RPMs, and really only helps emission, and to some degree keep the Cat from overheating. I know my driving habits have me very rarely under 3200 rpms in the FD. Will removing the airpump without a Midpipe speed up the fouling of a stock cat... maybe, but knowing this was something added in to help SMOG the vehicle... I have a tough time swallowing that advice.

BTW, credit this to another memeber (i downloaded this awhile back). Everything you need to know about the Airpump:

EDIT : oh and the whine is probably the Clutch engaging/disengaging as you move through the RPM range. Take the other members advice and pop the hood and reve the car manually. I bet you will discover the Air Pump is the culprit.

Does your Car MOO too?

 

^ What is the difference between the MOO and Whine? >.<

 

is the air pump on the upper left side of the motor when looking at it from the front? also does it have a gray plastic connector for the wires?

 

bump

 

Any ideas?

 

The air pump is located on the passenger side, just in front of the cross-over tube. Or for another land-mark, just aft (behind) where the stock airbox is located. And yes, it does have a gray plastic connector.

 

awesome. thanx for the pic thats what i thought it was. ppl were say that some ppl get rid of it all together. if i got rid of it theres other stuff i have to do then as well, what if i disconnected the wires so it doesnt engage, and didnt change anything would that (for lack of a better word) **** it up?

 

I'm wondering the same thing. I have no cat but a resonated mid pipe. I plugged the end where the air pump pipping bolted to the stock cat and now i get the whinning noise at a certain rpm when on the gas.

I let off the noise goes away. I can hold the rpm at around 3000 just standing still with no load and get the same noise and it's coming from the air pump. Can i just unplug it?

 

It won't immediately **** anything up by unplugging it...so you could try that to see if it's related to your noise.
If your on the stock ECU I don't recommend it permanently. Effects vary from car to car, but it can cause poor idle quality and some hesitation on throttle tip-in. And if you have to worry about emissions, it's nearly impossible to pass without it. Also if your still on the stock cat, it may cause it to plug-up (fail) prematurely.
The stock AP is bulky, but there is really no performance gains if removed.

Just for the record, all emissions were deleted from the engine pictured above and it has an aftermarket hi-flow cat, which don't seem to be affected by the lack of an airpump as the stock cat. The AP was retained ONLY as a pulley to keep full belt contact with the waterpump...which is another issue you would have to deal with if you remove the AP.....buying an underdrive waterpump and alternator pulley set (which also come with possible issues). It's an older picture, I later purchased an AP delete idler pulley so I could retain stock waterpump and alternator pulleys and stock belts.

 

i unplugged it and that is definitely the prob. i meant as a more permanent solution to get rid of the noise, basically unplug it so it doesnt engage and i dont buy an AP delete idler pulley

 

^ Hmm... leaving it unplugged is an idea, but an idler pulley is only ~150 dollars. Why not disable it correctly? It will also give you more room to work in your engine bay.

Do you need to worry about emissions at all? EDIT: check that I see you are in IL as well. No emissions for pre ODBII. Get rid of it all together and get the idler pulley.

 

I believe the MOO=pump is starting to go while the Whine=Clutch in the AP is starting to wear.

 

emissions are the only thing illinois got right. lol. the reason i want to just disconnect it is i vave few more important things i need to take care of first, eventually i will get one this is more of a temp solution. also if i do get the pulley will i need to get a downpipe. and new tune?

 

Disconnecting or removing the AP with the stock ECU may cause some problems as previously mentioned above. The AP actually pumps fresh air into the Cat and into the lower Exhaust manifold just above the stock O2 sensor. This means that while the AP is pumping air, it is pumping fresh air into the exhaust stream prior to hitting the O2 sensor. The stock ECU is programmed to expect a leaner mix (and it also does not know if the AP is there or not) while the AP is on so if you disable or remove the AP the stock ECU will try to compensate (sort of) for the change. This can cause the trouble with the idle and the slow response at throttle tip in. Of course this is only a concern in the RPM range when the AP should be pumping air.

 

I have a whine at idle could it be the turbos i just noticed it when i put a cold air intake on. or do they make a distinctive sound.

 

thanx, i will probably just replace it. there arent any tuning shops around here that i am familiar enough with to trust.

 

Hard to say for sure, but it's probably normal sounds that were previously muffled by your intake box. With hard intake pipes and open filters, you tend to hear the turbos a little more.