Stevey629

so, I am in the process of trying to gather information about rebuilds, and am wondering where any of u guys have sent ur motors for a rebuild. My basic plans are to do a mild street port, and maybe port the coolant passages. First off, if I mild street port, will I need to run fuel management stuff with the stock turbos and stock exhaust?

Secondly, would you recommend taking it to a shop to pull the motor and reinstall it? or should I taclke the job myself? I mean, I know there is a lot involved, but if I can get a price for removal and installation for around 1500 or less is that good?

I dont know if the core is still good. I could have the motor taken apart, but I dont wanna have to pay to take it apart, to only find out Im gonna need a new one anyways. Do most of u guys just get a new core even if the old one is still good? I basically wanna go as frugal as possible with the things that I can, and the things that need replacing, obviously the seals and any other parts along the way. The motor has about 90k miles on the original engine, and at was well kept, and I think the rear O ring went out. With that said, Im assuming that my core is still good, and a new one wont be necessary. Just a good lapping. But if you guys recommend otherwise, please chime in and let me know. I want to get my FD running as soon as possible.

I was reading up on pineapples rebuilds, and they seem to be good, but if I could find something locally, then that would be much easier. And if there are any other mods that are going to help with reliability, PLEASE list them, (3mm v.s. 2mm seals, teflon O rings, oil mods, etc.) I want this motor to be as bulletproof as possible, without having to destroy fort knox.

Im new to the rebuild process, so some guidance in the right direction with this would be greatly appreciated.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

There is already a thread started just like this:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=177144

artguy

a new book...mahjiks guide to the rx7 forums is currently in development.

watch for it sometime this summer.

Snook

iTrader: (12)

only send it to pettit, pineapple or maybe kdr and thats it no local shop bs

yes you will need a different ecu than stock for a streetport...it will run but why chance it on a new motor

depends on if you think you can do it and if you want to. R & R is commonly 1k for most rotary shops.

your core should be okay unless it really really overheated you could have warped a rotor or rotorhousing...those places I mentioned make you use new housings any way and they dont actually rebuild your motor they just take the core


they say 2mm seals seal better and can be reved and boosted higher on but 3mm can take a little detonation....plus 3mm seals dont damage your turbos or turbo when you blow the motor. I would go with 3mm just in case but they are both very good so you cant really make a bad choice

ive been through the rebuild process and you seem like you really want to do it right so listen to me...if you need anything just pm me

-Snook

Stevey629

Thx for the help man, greatly appreciated. I posted in another thread asking what "EXACTLY" the core was. What is the "core"? from what I understood, it was just the housings? Either way, thank you for clearing that up. So, I send my motor away to a shop, and they rebuild a completely different motor, and retain my "core" unless it was overheated, then they use a new one. And for a streetport, I was assuming some sort of fuel management was necessary, but I wasn't sure which type, and was just asking to see if it would run well without it. Playing the "better safe than sorry" is a good game plan and frame of mind. Of course a fully tuned Power FC would be a great choice, but I don't have the cash to get a hold of one of those puppies, neither do I have the money to tune it. Would something like an AFC or some piggyback management be enough, combined with maybe some higher cc rated fuel injectors? Oh, and would you recommend any coolant/oil mods?

Lastly, why not do it at a shop thats local and has done rebuilds before? I mean, how badly can it get messed up? I dont know, Reputation does speak highly, and from how places like KDR or Pineapple have turned out fantastic results for people on this forum, I guess the shipping freight and long wait is worth it. Speaking of which, how long does it usually take to get a motor back from one of these shops? I dont want to get my motor pulled somewhere down here, and leave my car there for like 2 months or something and just let it collect dust while I pay expensive storage fees anxiously awaiting my new powerplant. And, what are the shipping rates (of course its gonna be different depending on where they come from).

jpandes

I have the same questions as Stevey69. ^bump

Stevey629

BUMP^ who knows what a core is? If u can answer any of my other questions, again, please do so, and help me get my car on the road. Thx.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

You should talk to whoever is going to do the rebuild as to what they consider "a core". That way you'll know what to send.

For instance, if you order a reman "core" from Malloy Mazda, it typically comes with new water pump and thermostat installed, a flywheel and a main pulley. So with a core replacement, you would send those exact items back.

Just talk to the rebuilders you are considering and see what they require.

SleepR1

I think stevey likes to type more than he likes to read LOL

artguy

rotary reliability and racing is also a VERY viable engine builder. they have been building quality rotary race motors for over twenty years. They built my motor and I am very very happy with them

ask for nick or louis 7148398018

my car is there today...should be leaving for boston tomorrow.

they are local to you...they have a two year warrantee..and they know their *****. talk to them..you will find out for yourself.

no way would i send for a motor out of state...you will get as good of proven quality there in orange county and if anything happens you can tow it there rather than ship the entire thing to oregon or florida.

j

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

Mahjik's new title should read " Mr. Link"

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

The core or shortblock is considered to be the 3 plates, two housings, two rotors and one ecentric shaft.
If you port the engine you are trying to move more air in and out of the engine so, if you add air you should also add ( fill in the blank)....



Of coarse you are gonna need some fuel managment. You see guys getting all worried over a few bolt on's what do ya think is gonna happen when you start opening up the ports?

Anyhow you can probably get awayt with a walbro or you favorite upgraded fuel pump with out doing injectors unless you duty cycle is jumping past 90% all the time. Then you might want to start looking to get some bigger ones.

As far as what will be reusable on your engine.
It could be all parts or just some parts. If you threw an apex seal the chances are pretty good that at least one rotor and housing is fucked. If it was a coolant ring then if the car had low miles you might be able to reuse all the parts and jsut replace the gaskets and seals.
-Dave

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

You can get a Buddy Club piggy back ECU for about $650 (including datalogic software), which is about 1/2 of the PowerFC standalone replacement ECU. You will still have to pay for tuning, either way. There is A US distributor in CA (have to find link).

I am in the process of choosing parts and builder as well. So far I have chosen PHE Apex Seals (link) and Viton or Teflon O-Rings (link).

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

Please do yourself a huge favor and do not use that viton crap. They suck they do not fit the ring worth a **** and I have even seen them crack rings.

Also the very best seals that you can get hands down are the stock 2mm,

But hey you've been reading the internet and you know know what your doing so go right ahead..

You start screwing around and we are gonna see your post soon.. "My new rebuild sucks and leaks like a siv!"

Look not for nothing but the stock parts are the only ones that work everytime with out problem.
No need to get fancy on your engine. Do you want cool trendy names or an engine that starts and runs properly?

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

I've heard that on the silicone o-rings but not on the Viton. I don't know of anyone that has tried teflon. DO you have personal experience with them or just hearsay?

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

Yes i do have experience with them. I just told you that I tried them and they dont work worth a ****. Did I mispell something?

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

Dude why are you intent on buying gaywad parts.
Get stock stuff it works exactly as it should.

Do you think that the other parts will out live or seal better than the stock parts???
Im lost here help me understand?

Sorry not trying to get in a flame war just point out common sense.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Dude, you're grumpy today!

Anyhow, i'm trying to find "better" than stock because it's a waste of money to me to do a rebuild and replace apex seals when I only used less then 1/3 their life. Heat is the killer, so i'm looking for o-rings that can handle higher heat.

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

Sorry man. Not trying to bite your head off.

I think you would be better off with the stock parts.
Increase your airflow with better ducting if you want to try to eliminate some heat.

Here is a tip.
Take the foam seal on the top edge of your firewall off.
Watch the engine bay temps drop.

Good luck with your rebuilds fellas.

-Dave

Little 7

Rotary reliability is a local 7's shop for you, its in Anaheim. I brought my TII to them two years ago since I can't find a 7's shop in San Francisco, but now I found some. Rotary reliability rebuild the engine and made a street port. You need to talk to the owner(Nick) for the pricing. for FD, its about $5000. I think they charge expensive than just buy a RM motor.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for your input! I'll cross Viton off my list but i'm still looking at Teflon since it can handle 600 degrees. As far as cooling goes, it's when something goes wrong and you can't control the temp is what i'm worried about. A vented hood will not help when you have a radiator and/or water pump failure and it doesn't take long to cook the o-rings. http://www.marcorubber.com/failures.htm

SleepR1

GoRacer, I have enlarged oil and coolant passages in the motor, and silicone o-ring seals for increased cooling. With the FMIC and Power FC to control fans, my motor runs 85 to 86 C on the street, 95 C on the track.

homie

Hey guys. How about some help in the new york area. Any recommendations on where to rebuild a motor??? Thanks!

CYM TKT

iTrader: (4)

dont go to pineapple.... if you want to know why, then PM me. I am not quite ready to discuss this on the forum until things are "straightened" out.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Thanks SleepR1, that's the info i've been trying to research. How many miles on the rebuild so far and which Apex seals did you choose. Are you silocone o-rings teflon coated?