Where can i get cheap motor mount?
Where can i get cheap motor mount?
I'm a CF and poop smith
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,957
Likes: 1
From: Hawaii
you can get cheap polyurethane from here http://www.mcmaster.com/
do a search, there are photo how to's for this
do a search, there are photo how to's for this
anyone heard anything about this mounts?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=50454
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=50454
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I have his mounts in my FC. They are absolutly awsome.!! ( I should clarify here... This is my girlfriends daily driven FC. 
)
Sure there is a bit of vibration at 1500 RPM but who drives there?
The driveline is Rock Solid and installation was easy.
I am getting those for my FD as soon as my engines show up! If they ever do!!
He is very cool to deal with and his products are machined very well. From the mounts I got from him.
He is on this board. Scalliwag is his screen name i think.
)Sure there is a bit of vibration at 1500 RPM but who drives there?
The driveline is Rock Solid and installation was easy.
I am getting those for my FD as soon as my engines show up! If they ever do!!
He is very cool to deal with and his products are machined very well. From the mounts I got from him.
He is on this board. Scalliwag is his screen name i think.
Last edited by BigIslandSevens; Jun 30, 2004 at 06:56 PM.
WingmaN
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,324
Likes: 0
From: Fort Worth Texas
I just check in every now and then to see if the AE I built is still the featured car Thanks for the kind words Island Dude!
I just finished semi-solid mounts for FD's. The FC's are just a 1/4" shorter so it is just a matter of me making a few sets at that height. But they are going to cost quite a bit more due to fab time.
They give the best of both worlds though in that the urethane is encased in steel. Each side (frame side/motor side) are separated by urethane.
So at idle and gradual change in rpm they feel like a stock mount.
But when you hit it the mount is designed so it does not allow much movement and more importantly the urethane cannot separate and pull apart because it is encased.
So for those worried about vibration this is an alternate mount. But so far I have not had any complaints over vibration with the solids. To me I would go with the solids.
I have to get to the shop and finish up some bead rollers tonight but I will try to get some pics and a quick article on the semi-solids later in the week.
Thanks for the kind words Island Dude! I just finished semi-solid mounts for FD's. The FC's are just a 1/4" shorter so it is just a matter of me making a few sets at that height. But they are going to cost quite a bit more due to fab time.
They give the best of both worlds though in that the urethane is encased in steel. Each side (frame side/motor side) are separated by urethane.
So at idle and gradual change in rpm they feel like a stock mount.
But when you hit it the mount is designed so it does not allow much movement and more importantly the urethane cannot separate and pull apart because it is encased.
So for those worried about vibration this is an alternate mount. But so far I have not had any complaints over vibration with the solids. To me I would go with the solids.
I have to get to the shop and finish up some bead rollers tonight but I will try to get some pics and a quick article on the semi-solids later in the week.
WingmaN
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,324
Likes: 0
From: Fort Worth Texas
are you sitting down? $200 per set. But that is $100 less than the urethanes I have been seeing and I can assure you that these have a lot more labor, material, and equipment time invested.
I highly recommend trying solids and if you don't like them you can always sell them to someone else. Most likely you would like the feel of them and be happy you didn't spend more money on other mounts.
Plus they are not that hard to install as long as you have a few basic tools, a jack and a couple of jackstands.
I think a lot of people have it in their mind that a solid is much more harsh than it really is. But everybody is different so it always comes down to their call.
If you have a streetport or bridge the odds are you like to feel your motor anyways.
Even with stock mounts you are going to feel a modified port or something isn't right.
When you use a torque brace the vibration is transferred to the fenderwell and what really sucks is the way I have seen people attach them to their intake manifolds if there is breakage they are going to have a fairly costly and definately pain-in-the-@$$ fix ahead of them. Even with a dampener on the torque brace there is a lot more torque being absorbed and an 8mm bolt screwed into an aluminum manifold where a cruise control bracket was made to go is a pretty scary thought
Well I am locking up the shop and heading home guys There are these guys with these rice burner bikes revving the **** out of them so I am going to run them over on the way out
I highly recommend trying solids and if you don't like them you can always sell them to someone else. Most likely you would like the feel of them and be happy you didn't spend more money on other mounts.
Plus they are not that hard to install as long as you have a few basic tools, a jack and a couple of jackstands.
I think a lot of people have it in their mind that a solid is much more harsh than it really is. But everybody is different so it always comes down to their call.
If you have a streetport or bridge the odds are you like to feel your motor anyways.
Even with stock mounts you are going to feel a modified port or something isn't right.When you use a torque brace the vibration is transferred to the fenderwell and what really sucks is the way I have seen people attach them to their intake manifolds if there is breakage they are going to have a fairly costly and definately pain-in-the-@$$ fix ahead of them. Even with a dampener on the torque brace there is a lot more torque being absorbed and an 8mm bolt screwed into an aluminum manifold where a cruise control bracket was made to go is a pretty scary thought
Well I am locking up the shop and heading home guys
There are these guys with these rice burner bikes revving the **** out of them so I am going to run them over on the way out
Scalliwag, any news on the semi-solids? (Yes, I'd rather go with semi-solid than solid.) Also, can we just replace the urethane insert if it is ever damaged/worn out, and keep the steel portions?
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,639
Likes: 0
From: MIA
Originally Posted by artowar
Scalliwag, any news on the semi-solids? (Yes, I'd rather go with semi-solid than solid.) Also, can we just replace the urethane insert if it is ever damaged/worn out, and keep the steel portions?
WingmaN
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,324
Likes: 0
From: Fort Worth Texas
Originally Posted by artowar
Scalliwag, any news on the semi-solids? (Yes, I'd rather go with semi-solid than solid.) Also, can we just replace the urethane insert if it is ever damaged/worn out, and keep the steel portions?
Originally Posted by Fatman0203
Yes you can search, and you'll find a write up how to make your own for under 150$.
Originally Posted by Scalliwag
The casing is a welded unit. It has two seperate pieces where the mounting studs protrude from. They are bolted into a fixture that both centers the pieces and keeps them stable. Then urethane is injected into the casing and it really doesn't have any place to go to where it can wear out. So there is not an insert.
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,639
Likes: 0
From: MIA
Originally Posted by artowar
You're answering the wrong question. I asked Scalliwag about his motor mounts-- not a general question about replacement motor mounts.
Scalliwag, I just used buy it now on ebay for a set of the fullly solid mounts for an FD under the name gonzohope. I'll be sending $ through paypal asap (it needs to make it into my account first). I will also send you an email regarding the auction with all the info. Thanks for making these cheap mounts, I'll have to post how they come out for those who are interested in purchasing them. Josh
WingmaN
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,324
Likes: 0
From: Fort Worth Texas
Originally Posted by talljosh85
Scalliwag, I just used buy it now on ebay for a set of the fullly solid mounts for an FD under the name gonzohope. I'll be sending $ through paypal asap (it needs to make it into my account first). I will also send you an email regarding the auction with all the info. Thanks for making these cheap mounts, I'll have to post how they come out for those who are interested in purchasing them. Josh
Cool, I could use some really good pics of the mounts in a nice engine bay.
I don't have time to build any motors or cars right now
Senior Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
From: Auckland NZ
Originally Posted by Scalliwag
are you sitting down? $200 per set. But that is $100 less than the urethanes I have been seeing and I can assure you that these have a lot more labor, material, and equipment time invested.
I highly recommend trying solids and if you don't like them you can always sell them to someone else. Most likely you would like the feel of them and be happy you didn't spend more money on other mounts.
Plus they are not that hard to install as long as you have a few basic tools, a jack and a couple of jackstands.
I think a lot of people have it in their mind that a solid is much more harsh than it really is. But everybody is different so it always comes down to their call.
If you have a streetport or bridge the odds are you like to feel your motor anyways. Even with stock mounts you are going to feel a modified port or something isn't right.
When you use a torque brace the vibration is transferred to the fenderwell and what really sucks is the way I have seen people attach them to their intake manifolds if there is breakage they are going to have a fairly costly and definately pain-in-the-@$$ fix ahead of them. Even with a dampener on the torque brace there is a lot more torque being absorbed and an 8mm bolt screwed into an aluminum manifold where a cruise control bracket was made to go is a pretty scary thought
Well I am locking up the shop and heading home guys There are these guys with these rice burner bikes revving the **** out of them so I am going to run them over on the way out
I highly recommend trying solids and if you don't like them you can always sell them to someone else. Most likely you would like the feel of them and be happy you didn't spend more money on other mounts.
Plus they are not that hard to install as long as you have a few basic tools, a jack and a couple of jackstands.
I think a lot of people have it in their mind that a solid is much more harsh than it really is. But everybody is different so it always comes down to their call.
If you have a streetport or bridge the odds are you like to feel your motor anyways.
Even with stock mounts you are going to feel a modified port or something isn't right.When you use a torque brace the vibration is transferred to the fenderwell and what really sucks is the way I have seen people attach them to their intake manifolds if there is breakage they are going to have a fairly costly and definately pain-in-the-@$$ fix ahead of them. Even with a dampener on the torque brace there is a lot more torque being absorbed and an 8mm bolt screwed into an aluminum manifold where a cruise control bracket was made to go is a pretty scary thought
Well I am locking up the shop and heading home guys
There are these guys with these rice burner bikes revving the **** out of them so I am going to run them over on the way out my concern is that my fragile d5 microtech ecu mounted to my center console wont like any noise or vibration. what do you think about replacing only the left mount that experiences the tension during accelaration?
