Where to buy 99 spec OEM Radiator
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#8
^^^
my take on this is: the stock radiator last 85k miles, when it got swapped out for fluidyne it was still fine. but the fluidyne only last near 12k miles. so you can see which one is more reliable. plus my car is street and just sometime for track and I don't push it hard either. I'm not building it for some crazy hp.
N3philum: too bad you're in Japan. I need it like now now.... plus I want it new :-D
my take on this is: the stock radiator last 85k miles, when it got swapped out for fluidyne it was still fine. but the fluidyne only last near 12k miles. so you can see which one is more reliable. plus my car is street and just sometime for track and I don't push it hard either. I'm not building it for some crazy hp.
N3philum: too bad you're in Japan. I need it like now now.... plus I want it new :-D
#9
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (14)
Mazdaspeed Motorsport Developement. If you are a member.
https://www.mazdamotorsports.com/web...&storeId=10001
This is for the 280PS S RADIATOR
Part No: N3G1-15-200 $449.50 list
$321.05 member
https://www.mazdamotorsports.com/web...&storeId=10001
This is for the 280PS S RADIATOR
Part No: N3G1-15-200 $449.50 list
$321.05 member
#10
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (52)
^^^
my take on this is: the stock radiator last 85k miles, when it got swapped out for fluidyne it was still fine. but the fluidyne only last near 12k miles. so you can see which one is more reliable. plus my car is street and just sometime for track and I don't push it hard either. I'm not building it for some crazy hp.
N3philum: too bad you're in Japan. I need it like now now.... plus I want it new :-D
my take on this is: the stock radiator last 85k miles, when it got swapped out for fluidyne it was still fine. but the fluidyne only last near 12k miles. so you can see which one is more reliable. plus my car is street and just sometime for track and I don't push it hard either. I'm not building it for some crazy hp.
N3philum: too bad you're in Japan. I need it like now now.... plus I want it new :-D
But, good luck with the stocker OP.
#13
needs more track time
iTrader: (16)
That doesn't mean the radiator has a leak. That just means you have a coolant leak somewhere.
Have a cooling system pressure test done and you'll know exactly where the leak is coming from. Or remove the radiator and take it to a radiator shop so they can test it in their test tanks. I paid the guy $10 to have my rad tested.
#15
Rotary Enthusiast
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For the cost of that stock 99 spec you can get a brand new aluminum koyo n-flow. Theres a vendor selling them for cheap in the f/s section you may want to consider it.
#18
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (83)
I wanted to do the same thing but its just not worth it. You can find better aftermarket parts for cheaper. Alot of the parts also require alot of effort to source, research and install (99 spec ABS). The radiator is definitely a part you should go aftermarket with, along with the intercooler, and the AST, airbox etc...
#19
guys, I'm really appreciate all the suggestions and opinions. The leak was traced back to the radiator and it's pretty small. it only leaks when pressure is on. I can live with this until I find a better radiator. I'll rethink and maybe get an after-maket one.
Jason, thanks for the check.
Jason, thanks for the check.
#21
Finally, after 8 months of waiting my 99 spec radiator arrived today
I don't know when I have it installed, but I will let you know how good/bad this will be.
if I didn't count it wrong, the 99 spec has 10 more cooling lines (70 vs 60) compare to US 93+ radiator.
I don't know when I have it installed, but I will let you know how good/bad this will be.
if I didn't count it wrong, the 99 spec has 10 more cooling lines (70 vs 60) compare to US 93+ radiator.
Last edited by tnn; 08-05-10 at 08:49 PM.
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03-17-22 02:46 PM