Just curious as to the status of 13brew motors, those decided on rebuilding their own. I'm not talking about those who do it as their profession. I'm talking about the ones who had did it for the very first time: either because they were on a budget, wanted the experience, or wanted to make sure it was done right.

How is it holding up? And do you have any regrets from doing it, instead of having someone else or replacing it to avoid the headaches.

I'm curious to this information for when the time comes I could look at it, and base my decisions on it. I already have the videos and manuals just because I wanted a better understanding. It is a very lengthy process and it seems there is a lot of area in which you can F'up and make mistakes resulting in a loss of your $.

Thanks,

 

Hmmm... I curious too because I want to know what it's like to go through the whole process. I'm thinking about doing it too someday.

 

I've built at least 15-20 motors, all of them either for myself or friends.

Is it hard? Not really. As long as the components you use are within spec and you take your time, building the motor itself is pretty simple. It's MUCH easier than a piston engine, that's for sure.

The only major problem I had in my first engine rebuild was the front cover bearings - I had pinched a needle bearing and had great woes down the road from that.

Really, the engine is relatively simple, it's the 500 pounds of complicated stuff that's bolted to it that's the problem. Many people don't take the time to document, label, and take pictures during the disassembly process. You'd be surprised how much you forget over the course of a rebuild, as in what goes where or what vacuum hose plugs into which nipple.

Get Bruce Turrentine's videos and watch them. You have to be mechanically competent to do a rebuild, but there's nothing that's TOO hard. Most of it really involves just unbolting things and bolting things back up - there's not a lot of finesse to it.

Dale

 

I've done atleast 20 engines. My FD was rebuilt and street ported and it's had about 4 track events. Still running strong. I don't think it's a good idea if it is your first time. Atleast have someone knowledgeable supervise your work.

 

I've done 4 now i think and the first time with help from the video or FSM on a few parts that were tricky. Overall i found it to be easy and now i'm able to do it without needing help from other sources. I also feel that the engine i have blown of mine are due to me just overboosting and not anything i could of done differently during the building process.

 

I've got 2 motors out there this year...T04S running strong (plans to pass emissions) and a 35/40 who broke his rearend about an hour ago (plans to see upper 400's)

both blocks were set-up the same internally, ported, solid corners, RA 2mm.

 

I agree with what 13bt and coolduke say 100%.

I am 5 for 5 thus far building, 1 for 1 porting, my fd dyno sheet is up in the dyno section and my vert is running like a (sluggish) champ. The biggest pita is having access to all the proper tools, and also all the fun cleaning of carbon.

I will also say that building is one thing, porting is an entirely different thing.

 

Thanks guys. I got the Bruce Turrentine R&R and also the rebuild of the 13b out of an na.

To be honest with you the real concern I have is in installing all the rotor seals, apex seals with rubber corner seal, side seals, and springs. They look so simple and go in so easily on the install and that is where I get concerned. Bruce just slaps them in there, and I feel like there should be more to it, they would be so easy to fall out, or install incorrectly. Perhaps an over analyzation in my part?

 

Always best to approach your first rebuild with trepidation and over-analyzation

Apexes, springs can be tricky, and be very careful with the smaller corner pieces. i have never had to use it, but super glue is supposed to work well.

corners, easiest there is. helps to use some assy grease on top to keep em in there. shiny side up.

sides, by far the most time consuming. tight, but not too tight. i do them by feel, but i believe that .004" is correct. double check that. make sure the springs are not in upside down (ends point upwards)

Also, why/how did your motor fail? what hard parts (if any) are you going to need to replace?

Rich

 

Well the car is in running condition. I can still drive it around, and it starts up without to much problem. But slowly I have lost a little compression in the front rotor since when I acquired it. The rear rotor suprisingly has great compression 100+. I am not going to be running it too much longer without getting it rebuilt or replaced something I wanted to do anyway since I have gotten it.

 

i just got my atkins rebuild, it seems really easy, but it kinda concerned me to on how he just set the apex springs in there, and how thers about 7 seals and they have to go in one certain way, and he just kept puttin them in there like it was nuthin. but im going to do it one day, hopefully i can buy a jdm 13b rew and get a aftermarket rebuild kit and set it up for single turbo, and then get a fd shell and drop it in.

 

i got 4-5 out there

2 with sp

two with RA seals

one with stock oem

one one on used seals and water o-rings (built it for free)

no problems

my FD had machined NOT lapped irons. I had a local shop do it and turned out great and WAY cheaper.

 

how much for a rebuild kit?? and where to purchase kits at?? and special machine work needed??

 

hey there rx713bt,

You said you've done rebuilds or built 13b motors. Well I'm from the bay area and was looking for some local people or places that build 13brew motors. Just curious if you do them yourself or if you have a shop? I sent you a PM. thanks.

 

Could you please clue me in on the machined process, instead of lapped?

 

Instead of using a stone to lap they used a bit to mill it.

Like when you have a head machined after it warped.

you can see the lines of the bit but can't feel it. I perfered this method due to the fact that a polished (mirror) finish wouldn't retain oil and i would think this would help. I would also have to ship the irons (expensive) and the actual process is expensive.

The machinist said that he looked at the requirement and said mazda does say to only lapped but he put a new bit in for this and said it was within spec.

I was a bit worried about the compression maybed being low but it was good and had no problems starting it when it was freshly built.

wonder if anyone else tired this.