whats the fastest spooling turbo?
07-19-04, 04:20 PM
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whats the fastest spooling turbo?
im planning on getting an fd in the future i was wondering what is the fastest spooling turbo. i want a turbo with the least amount of lag.
07-19-04, 04:34 PM
#4
No it's not Turbo'd
Other than stock you have a choice of Apexi R6, GT35-40, and R85 or something... all of which are slower than stock by 100-400 rpm... depends on porting, and tuning as well...
07-19-04, 04:52 PM
#5
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Originally Posted by DCrosby
Other than stock you have a choice of Apexi R6, GT35-40, and R85 or something... all of which are slower than stock by 100-400 rpm... depends on porting, and tuning as well...
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07-20-04, 04:08 AM
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cool i might just stay with the twin turbo setup. i heard something about slightly modified ones. i think it might have been the 99 specs. does anybody know about modified stock twins. im probably going to go with reliability.
07-20-04, 07:50 AM
#12
Racing Rotary Since 1983
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ooooops, you said stock twins and RELIABILITY???
oh, that's right the stock twins are reliable. they reliably fry your motor.
FYI, the cast iron manifold that mounts the OEM turbo setup weighs 22 POUNDS. it bolts to the aluminum and mild steel block.
cast iron has a higher degree of heat retention than stainless steel which is 40% higher than mild steel. aluminum is one of the highest conductors of HEAT.
rotaries make approximately 500 degrees more exhaust temperature than piston engines... around1500-1800 degrees.
so you drive your car w the stock setup, you heat the 22 pounds of cast iron up to 1000 degrees and then you park it. guess where most of the heat stored in the cast iron goes?
i raced rotaries in SCCA GT3 for 6 seasons. my engines ran 7000 to 10,000 rpm for an entire 35 minute race. everyone in SCCA knows the rotary is the most reliable engine in GT3.
so why all the FD engine problems? IMO, it is the turbo system that is most centrally to blame. it is a thermal engineering nightmare.
not only does it heat soak the motor into oblivion, but it is unable to handle the heat. take a good look at the manifold off the motor and note all the cracks. i doubt there is a manifold that originally came w a 93-95 fd that isn't severely cracked.
a single turbo replaces the 22 pounds of cast iron w a stainless steel plate that bolts to the motor weighing maybe 6 pounds. the rest of the manifold tubing doesn't count for heat soak as it isn't bolted to the block.
if you are interested in reliability i suggest you either buy a single fd or remove the stock setup and use it as an anchor (highest and best use)...
secondly, as far as lag.. have you driven a properly setup single????
sure there are some turbos that do have significant lag but rip your head off as to top end. but many singles are very pleasant to drive overall. don't get too caught up with when various turbos come on powerwise... just go drive a well setup RX6 turboed fd. you will immediately forget about "early boost." it is not a problem.
good luck,
howard coleman
oh, that's right the stock twins are reliable. they reliably fry your motor.
FYI, the cast iron manifold that mounts the OEM turbo setup weighs 22 POUNDS. it bolts to the aluminum and mild steel block.
cast iron has a higher degree of heat retention than stainless steel which is 40% higher than mild steel. aluminum is one of the highest conductors of HEAT.
rotaries make approximately 500 degrees more exhaust temperature than piston engines... around1500-1800 degrees.
so you drive your car w the stock setup, you heat the 22 pounds of cast iron up to 1000 degrees and then you park it. guess where most of the heat stored in the cast iron goes?
i raced rotaries in SCCA GT3 for 6 seasons. my engines ran 7000 to 10,000 rpm for an entire 35 minute race. everyone in SCCA knows the rotary is the most reliable engine in GT3.
so why all the FD engine problems? IMO, it is the turbo system that is most centrally to blame. it is a thermal engineering nightmare.
not only does it heat soak the motor into oblivion, but it is unable to handle the heat. take a good look at the manifold off the motor and note all the cracks. i doubt there is a manifold that originally came w a 93-95 fd that isn't severely cracked.
a single turbo replaces the 22 pounds of cast iron w a stainless steel plate that bolts to the motor weighing maybe 6 pounds. the rest of the manifold tubing doesn't count for heat soak as it isn't bolted to the block.
if you are interested in reliability i suggest you either buy a single fd or remove the stock setup and use it as an anchor (highest and best use)...
secondly, as far as lag.. have you driven a properly setup single????
sure there are some turbos that do have significant lag but rip your head off as to top end. but many singles are very pleasant to drive overall. don't get too caught up with when various turbos come on powerwise... just go drive a well setup RX6 turboed fd. you will immediately forget about "early boost." it is not a problem.
good luck,
howard coleman
07-20-04, 08:37 AM
#16
Racing Rotary Since 1983
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King fish:
the M2 setup uses the same dreadful manifold w better flowing turbos. i didn't mention the crummy stock turbos that come w the stock setup. around 14 psi or higher they are running around 140,000 rpm and are cavitating (think major heat) like crazy. of course if run at near stock boost levels they are fine.
howard coleman
the M2 setup uses the same dreadful manifold w better flowing turbos. i didn't mention the crummy stock turbos that come w the stock setup. around 14 psi or higher they are running around 140,000 rpm and are cavitating (think major heat) like crazy. of course if run at near stock boost levels they are fine.
howard coleman
07-20-04, 04:53 PM
#19
It really depends on what your looking for. I always loved the TO4 60-1. Capable of 500hp with relatively good spool times. Ceramic ball bearings will help spool time and overal life. Your going to get A LOT of different opinions on this!!
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