What's the best wheel spacers for my Fd
01-03-15, 10:03 PM
#1
What's the best wheel spacers for my Fd
Hi guys can anyone provide feedback on what's the best wheel spacers to use, I've been looking around and seems the Ichiba maybe be the easiest application. I may need a 20 to 30mm for my front and 10 to 15mm for my rear. I will be installing 25 mm fender flares and am currently running 18x9 front with 35 offset and 18x 10.25 rear with 20 offset which required some rear fender rolling. Thanks Eddie.
01-03-15, 10:58 PM
#2
Rishie at AutoRND should be able to help you out with quality wheel spacers.
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Personally, I'd be reluctant to use a spacer that large but it' syour car.
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Personally, I'd be reluctant to use a spacer that large but it' syour car.
01-04-15, 12:31 AM
#4
True but some of use have rear flares and limited choices on wheel sizes in the 12 + inch range. I bought some group buy wheels at 19x11 and still needed a 1-1/2" spacer to get the right look. It's a street only setup so I'm not worried about it. I bought my spacers off ebay.
01-05-15, 10:48 AM
#5
I've had good luck with Ichiba spacers on customer and personal cars. Their v2 series are popular in the thicker sizes since they come with pressed in studs and will work for the front of your car. For the rear, you'll probably need a slip on (v1) spacer and install longer wheel studs but this depends on the mating surface of your wheels.
Some wheels have cavities/pockets in between the lug holes on the back side of the wheel that mates with the brake rotor while some wheels are solid. Wheels that have these cavities/pockets on the mating surface will most likely work with a thinner v2 spacer because the factory wheel studs will protrude past the spacer and into these cavities (see attached images). A wheel without these cavities will bottom out on the factory studs before it comes into contact with the spacer. In this situation, I'd go with extended ARP studs and slip on v1 spacers.
The attached images are for illustration purposes and are not of an FD but they'll give you an idea of what I'm talking about and what to look out for on studded spacers. You won't run into this issue with 20mm+ studded spacers on an FD with stock size wheel studs.
Check out my website www.j-auto.net for available spacer sizes and extended wheel studs by clicking on the button "F & R Axles."
Some wheels have cavities/pockets in between the lug holes on the back side of the wheel that mates with the brake rotor while some wheels are solid. Wheels that have these cavities/pockets on the mating surface will most likely work with a thinner v2 spacer because the factory wheel studs will protrude past the spacer and into these cavities (see attached images). A wheel without these cavities will bottom out on the factory studs before it comes into contact with the spacer. In this situation, I'd go with extended ARP studs and slip on v1 spacers.
The attached images are for illustration purposes and are not of an FD but they'll give you an idea of what I'm talking about and what to look out for on studded spacers. You won't run into this issue with 20mm+ studded spacers on an FD with stock size wheel studs.
Check out my website www.j-auto.net for available spacer sizes and extended wheel studs by clicking on the button "F & R Axles."
01-06-15, 08:30 PM
#6
I've had good luck with Ichiba spacers on customer and personal cars. Their v2 series are popular in the thicker sizes since they come with pressed in studs and will work for the front of your car. For the rear, you'll probably need a slip on (v1) spacer and install longer wheel studs but this depends on the mating surface of your wheels.
Some wheels have cavities/pockets in between the lug holes on the back side of the wheel that mates with the brake rotor while some wheels are solid. Wheels that have these cavities/pockets on the mating surface will most likely work with a thinner v2 spacer because the factory wheel studs will protrude past the spacer and into these cavities (see attached images). A wheel without these cavities will bottom out on the factory studs before it comes into contact with the spacer. In this situation, I'd go with extended ARP studs and slip on v1 spacers.
The attached images are for illustration purposes and are not of an FD but they'll give you an idea of what I'm talking about and what to look out for on studded spacers. You won't run into this issue with 20mm+ studded spacers on an FD with stock size wheel studs.
Check out my website J-AUTO - Bushings, Suspension, Parts for Mazdas for available spacer sizes and extended wheel studs by clicking on the button "F & R Axles."
Some wheels have cavities/pockets in between the lug holes on the back side of the wheel that mates with the brake rotor while some wheels are solid. Wheels that have these cavities/pockets on the mating surface will most likely work with a thinner v2 spacer because the factory wheel studs will protrude past the spacer and into these cavities (see attached images). A wheel without these cavities will bottom out on the factory studs before it comes into contact with the spacer. In this situation, I'd go with extended ARP studs and slip on v1 spacers.
The attached images are for illustration purposes and are not of an FD but they'll give you an idea of what I'm talking about and what to look out for on studded spacers. You won't run into this issue with 20mm+ studded spacers on an FD with stock size wheel studs.
Check out my website J-AUTO - Bushings, Suspension, Parts for Mazdas for available spacer sizes and extended wheel studs by clicking on the button "F & R Axles."
01-09-15, 04:19 PM
#7
Speaking of spacers....
https://www.rx7club.com/vendor-class...-15mm-1076826/
Edit
Just realized Juan had them too...
https://www.rx7club.com/vendor-class...-15mm-1076826/
Edit
Just realized Juan had them too...
Last edited by gracer7-rx7; 01-09-15 at 04:22 PM.
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