Whats the best Tansmission oil?
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Davie, Florida
Whats the best Tansmission oil?
i mean i know lots of you are going to say diff things but i was curious because i heard lots of good things from redline and i was planning on chaning my tan oil to test out something because some times it feels weird going into second gear.. guessing its the sycros but if anyone else has any good ones please let me know
They're all very good. I'm using Neo 75w-90HD and it's an excellent oil for the $$. I've also had good success with the Redline MT series.
Bottom line, all the oils mentioned so far are top notch synthetics. They will all perform better than a basic petrol gear oil. They will cure some shifting problems, but not all.
Dave
Bottom line, all the oils mentioned so far are top notch synthetics. They will all perform better than a basic petrol gear oil. They will cure some shifting problems, but not all.
Dave
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I remember Peter Farrell stating synthetic oils ruin the gearboxes in RX-7's. Peter said he found that out through all the servicing of RX-7's over the years and also in his race cars. The problems stopped he said when he went back to non sythetic after the gearboxes were replaced.
He drove a buddies car which the gearbox was working and looked at him and said "You're running synthetic gear oil aren't you?" My buddy was...
He drove a buddies car which the gearbox was working and looked at him and said "You're running synthetic gear oil aren't you?" My buddy was...
Originally Posted by Mr rx-7 tt
I remember Peter Farrell stating synthetic oils ruin the gearboxes in RX-7's. Peter said he found that out through all the servicing of RX-7's over the years and also in his race cars. The problems stopped he said when he went back to non sythetic after the gearboxes were replaced.
He drove a buddies car which the gearbox was working and looked at him and said "You're running synthetic gear oil aren't you?" My buddy was...
He drove a buddies car which the gearbox was working and looked at him and said "You're running synthetic gear oil aren't you?" My buddy was...
Just about all the track guys I've been around swear by the current crop of synthetic oils as they will also lower the temps of the gear box during hard running (thus helping the life of it).
Using what works in another type of gearbox is flawed logic. The synchros are the primary issue when you change oils, and using different varieties of oil will affect how well the synchros grip the gear as you engage each shift. Every kind of gearbox is different in its synchro behavior, and even every gearbox is a little unique.
One issue with early and/or cheap GL-5 oils is the kind of EP additives - reactive sulfur and phosphorus compounds make for a cheap, effective GL-5 EP package. But they eat most synchros or at least speed their wear. Also, the extra lubricity of a synthetic means it's harder for the synchro to grip the gear and synchronize - in some cases this leads to damage on the synchro teeth and dog teeth of the gear. Especially with worn synchros. Perhaps PFS was noticing these kinds of problems.
Newer and better GL-5s have EP additive packages that are largely absent of the nasty kinds of sulfur and phosphorus and do much less to the synchros. Redline, Amsoil, and Royal Purple are clearly in that category, and I believe Neo is too but they still haven't sent along the test data to prove it. (They have an outstanding promise to me).
Dave
One issue with early and/or cheap GL-5 oils is the kind of EP additives - reactive sulfur and phosphorus compounds make for a cheap, effective GL-5 EP package. But they eat most synchros or at least speed their wear. Also, the extra lubricity of a synthetic means it's harder for the synchro to grip the gear and synchronize - in some cases this leads to damage on the synchro teeth and dog teeth of the gear. Especially with worn synchros. Perhaps PFS was noticing these kinds of problems.
Newer and better GL-5s have EP additive packages that are largely absent of the nasty kinds of sulfur and phosphorus and do much less to the synchros. Redline, Amsoil, and Royal Purple are clearly in that category, and I believe Neo is too but they still haven't sent along the test data to prove it. (They have an outstanding promise to me).
Dave
Last edited by dgeesaman; Feb 2, 2006 at 06:27 AM.
Originally Posted by recon fd
This a perfect thread for me because I am going to change mine this weekend and was wondering what type of oil I was going to use. Your imput on this topicis very helpful!!
The main reason I picked Royal Purple is that it's available from my local NAPA. I don't believe there is going to be a noticeable difference, of the same weights, between all the "upper" brand name synthetics.
Most people say "Hey, I just put Redline in and it's the best! I'll use it forever". Putting new fluid in of any kind is going to be better than even the best fluid that has 50k miles on it.
I've used both Redline and Amsoil. Both were an improvement, especially in cold weather, but i tend to like the Amsoil. As far as i know they're all good products...my choice was simply based on personal preference of which one just 'felt better' to me. But any name brand synthetic will probably do you right.
Originally Posted by Mahjik
I use Royal Purple in the tranny and diff (as well as in my M3).
The main reason I picked Royal Purple is that it's available from my local NAPA. I don't believe there is going to be a noticeable difference, of the same weights, between all the "upper" brand name synthetics.
Most people say "Hey, I just put Redline in and it's the best! I'll use it forever". Putting new fluid in of any kind is going to be better than even the best fluid that has 50k miles on it.
The main reason I picked Royal Purple is that it's available from my local NAPA. I don't believe there is going to be a noticeable difference, of the same weights, between all the "upper" brand name synthetics.
Most people say "Hey, I just put Redline in and it's the best! I'll use it forever". Putting new fluid in of any kind is going to be better than even the best fluid that has 50k miles on it.
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Using what works in another type of gearbox is flawed logic. The synchros are the primary issue when you change oils, and using different varieties of oil will affect how well the synchros grip the gear as you engage each shift. Every kind of gearbox is different in its synchro behavior, and even every gearbox is a little unique.
One issue with early and/or cheap GL-5 oils is the kind of EP additives - reactive sulfur and phosphorus compounds make for a cheap, effective GL-5 EP package. But they eat most synchros or at least speed their wear. Also, the extra lubricity of a synthetic means it's harder for the synchro to grip the gear and synchronize - in some cases this leads to damage on the synchro teeth and dog teeth of the gear. Especially with worn synchros. Perhaps PFS was noticing these kinds of problems.
Newer and better GL-5s have EP additive packages that are largely absent of the nasty kinds of sulfur and phosphorus and do much less to the synchros. Redline, Amsoil, and Royal Purple are clearly in that category, and I believe Neo is too but they still haven't sent along the test data to prove it. (They have an outstanding promise to me).
Dave
One issue with early and/or cheap GL-5 oils is the kind of EP additives - reactive sulfur and phosphorus compounds make for a cheap, effective GL-5 EP package. But they eat most synchros or at least speed their wear. Also, the extra lubricity of a synthetic means it's harder for the synchro to grip the gear and synchronize - in some cases this leads to damage on the synchro teeth and dog teeth of the gear. Especially with worn synchros. Perhaps PFS was noticing these kinds of problems.
Newer and better GL-5s have EP additive packages that are largely absent of the nasty kinds of sulfur and phosphorus and do much less to the synchros. Redline, Amsoil, and Royal Purple are clearly in that category, and I believe Neo is too but they still haven't sent along the test data to prove it. (They have an outstanding promise to me).
Dave
That comment suggests that an oil with too much lubricity is preventing the synchros from gripping the gears, so that the gear isn't synchronized when the clutch sleeve teeth hit the gear dog teeth. This is much worse than synchro wear since the drive gears and clutch sleeves are taking the abuse, and they cost $200/ea. Considering there are 3 sleeves and 5 gears that would wear out, that's definitely reason to pitch the thing.
Dave
Dave
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
That comment suggests that an oil with too much lubricity is preventing the synchros from gripping the gears, so that the gear isn't synchronized when the clutch sleeve teeth hit the gear dog teeth.





