zenofspeed

iTrader: (1)

I've been saving for a while and have about $10k I want to spend on a vehicle... I'm very much on the fence with some options though. And I'm looking for some opinions. This thread will help me think it through and make the right choice for me.

My FD (in avatar) is a 95 with 50k miles on the ported Rotary Performance motor 95k miles on body. Compression is in the 80s and vacuum dropping at around 13.5. The stock twins are also failing (burning oil/and cracked manifold). It has about every bolt on you'd want while running ported stock twins. 315whp at 13psi with the stock injectors almost maxed out.

Here are the options I'm considering:

1) Buy new motor from Malloy and go single (35r). New clutch. Meth injection. re-tune. 450+whp - $10k

2) Buy new motor from Malloy, pick up some working twins, Port wastegates, re-tune, new clutch friction plate, and continue driving a 315whp FD - $5k

3) Sell the car as is for $12k, Add another $8k and buy a 'finished' FD for $20k. $8k

4) Sell the car as is for $12k, add another $8k and put $20k down on a lightly used Evo or some other new car. $8k

Any input is appreciated!

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

I'd have a good shop build me a solid streetported motor with goodies to my specs, and score some '99 or BNR twin turbos, replace any other suspect ancilaries while it's apart, break it in and have it tuned. Start with a solid motor and ancilaries, and then see where you are as far as single-T, meth, 450 whp, etc.

Supernaut

iTrader: (83)

If you could sell your 7, I would do it and buy Fritz's car for 23.6k. If not (Im sure you will have a hard time), I voted staying with the twins though since that is the cheapest and most fun!

donz

iTrader: (2)

I'd rebuild and make it reliable. Spend the extra on making it reliable. If you are ready to move on, the evo's are nice, but I'm biased as I live in a winter wonderland.

PortedRotorTuner

iTrader: (13)

Use 5k to get the motor rebuilt. Take the other 5k and invest it.

allrotor93

iTrader: (126)

you wouldnt get $12500 so the choice should be easier to make

rotarymandan

iTrader: (15)

I think you would enjoy the change to a 35R...

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

I'm sure a single T would be nice, but don't strap it to a reman in order to afford it. Get a good motor built first, even if it means going single later.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

How about a 5th option:

Whats wrong with freshening the existing motor your already have? RP builds some quality motors. Some soft seals, new apex seals and maybe some housings and you'll be good to go.


Then add some new 99 or BNR twins or whatever else fits your budget.


#3 leaves open the prospect of someone's finished FD isn't really finished. Been there, done that...

#4 depends on what your wants and needs are. Regardless of the numbers a car puts down, there is no other car (close to this price range) that provides the kind of driving excitement the FD does. I'd sooner keep my FD and buy a cheaper car to do DD duties than a newer car that won't provide the driving excitement that the FD does.

RiceFx306

iTrader: (7)

I'd sell the car personally. Going single is a daunting task if you don't have everything in order. If you can find a solid single turbo FD they generally are cheaper than you could do it yourself (especially if going through a show). That's just my take on it though.

Supernaut

iTrader: (83)

Thats usually true of all things.

zenofspeed

iTrader: (1)

Well I'm investing the other $15k not mentioned.

I'm not talking about a reman... I'm talking about a new motor.

Thanks Gordon. The car is track ready, no real issues other than motor/turbos. Plus I've spent a good amount of time/money on sound, security, interior refreshing. i just hate those tan seats! haha.

what route would you take for "getting a motor"? Rebuild the one in there? New from Mazda?

I suppose I didn't list rebuilding the one i have, but that is because I have 3mm seals and I want to go down to 2mm. There are also some bearing squeals from around the belts and other such annoyances that I'm not sure I want to deal with. I was thinking that the new motors from japan for $4,500 - $1,000 core were a decent deal and less headache. I think Ray still has 1 or 2 left. Stock porting doesn't bother me much. I've seen some hp numbers way higher than I want on stock ports. Any thoughts?

Gracerx:

Great point on option #4. I think that's right. I should hang on to owning an FD and just buy something cheap to get around if the need arises. I have a motorcycle to get to work and it gets 50mph. So I think I can nix option #4.

Troux

iTrader: (6)

You can get an LS1 in there for under $10K pretty easily.

zenofspeed

iTrader: (1)

I'd just buy a vette if I wanted that.

AdamBench

I have an LS6 powered cts V as a daily...not as much fun as the FD....

secondly i already crossed this bridge.

i had a very nice car but a tired motor. so i wen tto the rx7 store in columbus ohio had them rebuild the motor race port it, 3mm seals, new fuel pump lines injectors..ect. front mount, larger koyo radiator, low mileage tranny, short shifter, clutch, and a tune and i couldnt be happier

the car is set up for 500 or more hp and i am running about 400whp and its reliable and fast. i used the rest of the money to redo the interior and now it is new leather and the whole nine yards its all but finished and thats that

M104-AMG

iTrader: (8)

Be the first with BNR's and HD AI.

If it's true, you mayhave the first RELIABLE 500+ HP from a 2-rotor with BNR's on pump-gas on a street-ported engine . . .

:-) neil

TimeMachine

iTrader: (10)

Rebuild, go single turbo, go aftermarket ECU, go AI, and run circles around an Evo...

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

Admittedly, it's been a while since I was in the market for a motor, but last time I looked there wasn't any such thing as a "new" motor, unless you ordered it from Japan—what Malloy sells are remans, which may or may not include new housing or some other parts.

In any case, I'm talking about a built motor—ported, ballanced, blueprinted, oil/water jacket mods, upgrade water o-rings, etc. I wouldn't slap a single turbo on a stock-port motor, with factory internals.

silverTRD

iTrader: (37)

i would rebuild the motor i have if i were you. your housings are more then likely in great shape. just get new rotors since you want to go back to 2mm seals. i prefer 2mm as well. just find a good shop close to you, maybe ir performance? tell them your goals, and see what someone who rebuilds fd's for a living and see what he has to say

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

I'd still end up running out of money.

Correction : had 9k, ran out. need 7 more.

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

Talk to Glen Weaver of Arizona Rotary Rockets about your rebuild.

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

If (when) my motor finally goes I'll have it sent to Pineapple for a rebuild/streetport. I can't decide if I'd go with a single at that point or not though.. as it stands I've got everything else listed in the choices and am running a (mechanically) reliable sequential 7 with just over 400rwhp (if measured on a dynojet/dynopack).

I'm running stock ports/seals with A/I. Tbh my power is enough to rip my rear end out going 60-70 on a lightly damp road (I've not gotten a dry road since the retune). There is MORE than enough "umph" there for any street car.

If it weren't for your wish to go from 3mm down to 2mm seals I'd highly suggest the rebuild. Hell, go with the rebuild anyway, RP is a pleasure to deal with (even from across an ocean) and I firmly believe they are competent. I have first hand experience that a properly rebuilt motor can/will have much higher compression than a stock one, or a reman of questionable quality (not to down play Ray, what-so-ever!). When I had my compression checked last April (5 years after the rebuild) I was running 8.6-9.1 on all faces...


My suggestion:

Have motor rebuilt (porting optional). Purchase upgraded solenoids (Axiom), install A/I (50/50 meth/water), buy BNR Stage 3's (keep them sequential, use dynamic seals).

Assuming you have most all other non-basic power/reliability mods (ic, ignition amp, ebc, fueling, fpr, wbo2, dual oil coolers, etc., etc.) than I would plug all that I mentioned in. Perform the break-in than tune for 19-20psi.


At the very least, going this route now, with the BNRs you'll be able to decide if you like the response and feel of twins at that power level. If you'd prefer a single after knowing how the twins can perform than you will have already done everything to your car needed to go that route. You will have, essentially, set yourself up so that a single will be a bolt on/plug and play application (after tuning, of course) and you will still be able to get most of your money back that you spent on the BNRs.


Just my $.02

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Here's my suggestion:

Get a standard rebuild from Kevin at RotaryRessurection, keep the stock twins and forget about AI. Enjoy the car and put the rest of your money away.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

I went thru this about a year ago. For my 10K, I got the following:

Rebuild with new rotor housings
Mild street port
New 99 J-spec turbos
New 1300 secondaries
New PFC & tune
All work done by a shop

The car still has a smog pump and OEM cat, which I intend to keep. No stinky car for me . I have about 300 rwhp now at 13 psi. Its plenty fast for me.

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

Did you consider the BNR's? or did you get a screamin' deal on those 99 spec turbos?