Are these oil lines?

 

MOP
metering oil pump lines. They inject oil into the rotary chambers

 

i kinda had an idea...

anyway the reason why I'm asking is that I broke the line right at the nipple while changing my FPD, and what i did was i used about 2 inches of 4mm vaccum hose to join the oil line and the nipple that it goes into (they're so hard that I couldn't even slip it back on)...would that be okay for now?

 

eeewwwweeeee dirty dirty rats nest... be gone with it.....

 

yeah but now it's all pretty again since I'm done with it...

plus I hate lag

 

I am not sure what pressure goes through those things, but I wouldn't think that vacuum hose on an oil line with no beads or clamps would be a very secure connection. A new line is not very expensive, but it might be a pain to install. I would definitely get a new line rather than run it with the vacuum hose.

-Max

 

****... that is the same thing that happened to mine when i changed my fpd! those damn oil lines are so brittle, i dont see how this can not be a more common problem.

DO NOT USE A PIECE OF 4MM SILICONE HOSE TO BRIDGE THE OIL LINES. silicone does not stand up well to oil based substances. it will decinigrate and silicone bits will start to clog up your oil injector system, and eventually it will leak all over.

what i did temporarily was go to a place called tap plastics here in the city on van ness blvd with the banjo bolt ring thingy that the line slips over. first i cut off the remaining plastic line that was stuck on the nipple. then i asked the guy at the front for vinyl tubing that will fit very snug on the nipple. cost me like 3 bucks. then i went home and forced one side onto the nipple and the other side over a trimmed section of the hard brittle plastic line. make sure you are very careful so you dont break it even more.

i did this as a temporary fix, and i plan to change the lines out as soon as i have access to that area again, since it seems like it is going to be a real pain in the *** to change them out.

does anyone know if that is the only source of oil that goes into the rotary chambers??? it seems like a really poorly designed system if it is.

 

That is the only injection point, that's why you add a little oil to each tank of gas.

 

I broke my rear MOP line too when trying to pull the primary injectors. It is a common problem...

New from the dealer was about $40.00 so it's probably about $10.00 from M-comp.

Eric.

 

umm...I REALLY don't want to go back in there again but it looks like I'm gonna have to.

rx7speed811, is vinyl okay for hot oil then? I'm probably just gonna order some oil lines from bakers or something.

 

i think vinyl should hold up a little better than silicone. still, if you are willing to go deep in there and change them, i would highly recommend it. i still have to do it, and i wish i had when i had everything apart.

 

okay just got back from the local parts strore and the guy gave me 6 inches of super thick rubber fuel hoses, I think I'm just gonna use that. Afterall, the possible contact area with oil is only 1mm or less.

Back to work

 

just make sure you are very careful slipping the new hoses over the old ones, or the brittle oil lines might break and the contact area may very well spread from 1mm to like an inch. also, make sure you get a very tight seal over the metal nipple too. good luck.

are you planning to keep this setup permanently, or do you plan to order the stock lines in the near future? i am curious.

 

Yep. $15 from Mazdacomp. I just bought some.

Jeff
93 VR R1
94 PEG, in progress

 

ahhhhhhh! New problem, 0psi before 4.5k and 12psi over 4.5k

 

time to go back and check the turbo control acuator lines and maybe switch some solenoids...