Okay, also look in the fuse/relay box just behind the box on the battery terminal. Once again, check all of the fuses.

 

ok the fuse bank behind the battery.....how do you get them out and lift off the plastic covers over the fuse itself?..same question for the fusebank on front crossmember by the rad

 

Those are relays, not fuses. Don't worry about those - just make sure they're seated completely.

Just check the fuses for now.

 

ok then all is checked and looks ok.....now im offically stumped

 

what are the chances the ignition is the problem? Stutter before it shut down and with two fuel types then quits? turns over, fuses ok, but wont light up. Didnt say if the dash and ac is back on or not.

 

Well, the next logical step is to use a multimeter and check for battery voltage at the PFC.

 

yes all works and lights up expect for the pfc and avc-r.....tries to turn over....

when it dies on me i was going about 60..so i put in back in gear and tried to start it that way and still didnt start. checked the fuses on the ignition amplifier and all is good there

 

there are a few connections coming into the pfc from the harness which would and would not have power

 

I attached the pinout diagram for the ECU connectors. Test pin 1A for battery voltage. Then turn the ignition key to "ON", and test pin 1B for battery voltage.

Use a nearby bolt threaded directly into the chassis, or pin 4C on the harness, for ground.

 

Actually, pins 4A, 4B, and 4C are all ground.

 

compression How to with standard gauge http://www.banzairacing.net/compression_test.htm

The suspension question was not that outrageous, we have seen a few cars that had bad shocks, lowering springs and 18's, that have rubbed through the inner fender liner then through the main harness.

Check all the fuses in the box attached to the positive terminal of the battery, (unless the battery has been relocated). Check all the grounds on the engine

 

Very true. Mine isn't worn through the individual wire insulators, but the fender liner and plastic conduit have been eaten away on the passenger side. I'll post a picture when I get a chance.

 

ok will try the volt meter one the incoming ecu connections...i hope its just the pfc and not something major..and i hope that i didnt lean my motor out or do something bad when the pfc craped out..i can only hope

 

Burn that bridge when you come to it!

You'll find out if anything else is wrong after you get the PFC working again.

 

Come to think of it, before you check for battery voltage on 1A and 1B, you should check that pins 4A, 4B, and 4C have continuity to the chassis. This will verify that the ECU has ground.

Set the multimeter to continuity, put a probe on one of those pins, and the other probe on a nearby bolt that's threaded into the chassis. The multimeter should indicate continuity. Repeat for each of the ground pins (4A, 4B, and 4C).

 

ok will check thanks..hope the the ecu is the problem

 

ok i checked the pins....pin 1A no voltage reading at all

pins 4A, 4B, 4C, about 3.2 Ohms for continuity

 

any ideas now anyone?

 

still have your old ecu?

Tim

 

no i have a pfc

 

I know that, do you still have your stock ecu with you? If so , try it and see if it will start up. At idle, you'll be okay with the stocker, just trying to see if it is the PFC.

So the pin out that is supposed to give it power isn't showing anything? What condition is the wiring harness in?
Tim

 

no i dont have the factory ecu anymore. I tested pin 1A for voltage and it didnt show any volatage. Then i tested pins 4A,4b,4C for continuity and got about 3.3 ohms. So im guessing that there has to be something worng with the harness coming into the cabin for the ecu

 

The stock ECU won't work either if 1A isn't getting battery voltage...

Check the 10A ROOM fuse (in the cabin), and the 60A BTN and 120A MAIN fuses (in the box attached to the battery positive terminal).

If these fuses are okay, then it must be in the wiring harness.

If you're seeing continuity to the chassis at pins 4A, 4B, and 4C, then the ECU is properly grounded.

 

yeap its gotta be in the harness....checked all fuses and all are ok. replaced some that were ok but looked a little old. Now about the harness...i see where the harness enters the cabin through the firewall and i can trace it to where it splits just before going under the manifold.. Is it worth taking off the manifold and all the other things needed to free the harness and checking every wire ...or should i get a new harness installed?

 

WOW..ok well while looking the wiring harness near the UIM i found 2 block off plates missing off of the back of the UIM. Im thinking this could be why my vacuum readings where around 10-11. Am i correct?