gabytremmy

Hey guys i'n new here and looking for an rx7 as my summer car.
I'm from quebec and winter isnt always kind to our cars so if i can ever find a 3rd gen that's worth while, i doubt it'll be seeing any snow.

On that note, I thought it would be a good idea to sign up here and see what all you guys had to say about rx7's, mainly what to look for, into and what to watch out when shopping for a 3rd gen.
Hopefully I'll get some advice from you guys and from roaming around here!

Anyways, Cheers and thanks!

Montego

iTrader: (1)

Look at the FAQ's
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...l-links-68640/

But off the top of my head and if I was buying today I'd check for how well overall the car was taken cared of.

But also:
- Milage
- Fifthgear synchro
- Pillowballs clunking
- 3K RPM hesitation
- boost response
- compression
- Ever overheat
- milage on engine
- losing coolant
- turbos smoking
- turbos replaced or rebuilt
- Milage on turbos
- badly modded

spiritrmazda

iTrader: (3)

I always found this thread useful:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...nners-1010998/

It mentions to look for low mileage and what it should have and what not to do.

Slow2k

iTrader: (9)

If you had at least done a google search you would have gotten 10 results easily.

cr-rex

iTrader: (114)

HadaVette

iTrader: (3)

Consider that a non-sunroof has an inch more headroom. Have you sat in, rode in, or test driven many? It's kinda low, make sure you fit.

SA3R

Check the wiring, as far as any additions, or messes of spaghetti under the dash or in the engine bay. Quality of the wiring "mods" gives you a general picture of the quality of work done on the car sometimes..

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

these cars are meant to come apart for various things, so most cars have been taken apart and put back together a bunch of times, and they are old, at least the 93-95's are.

also given that the FD doesn't share many parts from any other car, there are some things that are very expensive new.

these cars also have a lot of really odd wear parts, like headlight lids, and as such used parts will be broken too.

anyways, for the mechanicals, you might as well get a compression test, look for oil leaks (these cars leak from everywhere), check the cooling system for leaks and condition. it start right up hot and cold, the turbos should transition properly. the transmission is a little clunky, but it shouldn't be too noisy, or grind into 5th.

clunks in the rear mean it needs new pillow ball bushings.

for the body, Mazda put a thick layer of undercoating, and this should have a crisp line and go all the way around the car (except the bumpers), if its missing, it means that panel was replaced, or there was some body work. if the line isn't crisp, it might mean a repaint.

under the hood, Mazda put oval pieces of tape over the alignment holes and then painted the car, so these should be present, two on each fender, and two on the front apron. if these got peeled off, its grey underneath, if they are missing and its body color, it means the car's been to a body shop.

the rear bumpers had a 20mmx200mm sticker on them under the license plate, sometimes this was detailed off at the dealership, so sometimes its missing because its missing. however if its there, this means the bumper is original.

interior is the most expensive thing to fix, so make sure you look at EVERYTHING.