Hello all, I am looking to buy this no accident 1994 FD with approximately 37,000 miles; this car is heavily modified with the following parts, it is going to a PPI next week but It is the first time I am buying a modified fd like this - is there anything I should be particular be looking out for? Please comment and let me know you insights, thanks in advance.

Mod list & pictures as follow:

@15psi boost. Making 355.6whp
HKS T04Z Ball-bearing turbo
HKS V-Mount intercooler
Koyo radiator
Custom low-pro twin rad fans
HKS 3"exhaust no cat. HKS down pipe
Walbro 450lph fuel pump
Twin custom oil coolers
Ultimate Fuel System by Full Function Engineering with 725cc primaries, and 2000cc secondaries.
Apexi power FC
Street port housings
Rotary aviation super seals.
Race Apex seal springs
Atkin rotary solid corner seals.
Deep grove rotor bearings
Solid oil pellet
Light steel flywheel
Exedy stage 2 clutch
OS Limited Slip Differential
Greddy high oil capacity rear diff cover
4.30 ring and pinion
ARK Coilovers
Tanabe sway bars
Custom painted Efini RX7 tower brace with polished end plates.
HKS SSQV blow off valve
HKS Wastegate.
Greddy pulleys
Odyssey battery
Forgeline S03P rims
Michelin Pilot Supersport tires
Upgraded ignition/electrical system
Shine auto projects body kit
Innovate wideband air/fuel ratio gauge
Defi boost gauge.
RX7Store center speaker delete dual gauge pod.
Stoptech big brake rotors all 4
Stoptech 4-piston front calipers
Painted rear calipers.
Braided lines throughout

 

A lot of people will hate on the Apexi power FC, it's an old ECU but it's not a deal breaker. There is a lot of support for that ECU still, FC tweak being the biggest one. Anyways, don't wait too long to buy the car. Last guy that came here asking for advice, the car sold. The car is fine, buy it. Depending on price of course, I would say no more than 50K for this FD. If it was completely stock, 70K.

 

Thank you for the input

 

Looks like an expensive car with expensive parts and expensive work. Do a compression test and check the coolant color. If they're good, spend it up. The only real variable here is the quality of the engine build and the execution of the engine bay configuration. The car itself looks good.

 

Only four posts over 20 years. Where ya been bro?

 

yes compression test is on the order while doing ppi, what reading should I expect to be reasonable ? Thanks for the reminder on coolant color check.

 

Will be more active in posting 🤣

 

Make sure whoever does the compression test uses a proper compression test device designed for rotary motors.

It is surprising how few shops have one of those (in working order) and will try to make do with a tester designed for piston engines.

Opinions on suitable compression test results can very widely (and wildly).

Best get the result then ask around after that.

The Factory Service Manual for 1994 FD, and newer, sets 100 PSI (at sea level and 250 rpm) as the point where one need to consider engine remediation actions.

So you want to see better results than that on all faces and not see a large difference between each face and each rotor.

 

Hi all, so I will be picking up the car and driving it back home over two days with about 800mile / 1200km, I know I need to add premix into the car when driving back however I dont think I can buy enough rotary premix in time for the drive, I wonder would something like this lucas two stroke oil be okay to use? Any feedback is much appreciated.

 

You can use literally any 2 stroke oil, as long as it says TCW3 on the bottle. I use the cheap walmart oil.

 

I even got some C$5 bottles marked TCW3 (TC3W?) at Dollarama. (Not recommended).

Where did you spy that Lucas 2-stroke?

If you are driving back to Vancouver, that means you will be going through (a number of) mountain passes in the hot of summer.

Best give a good check over of your coollant hoses.

Depending on where you are coming from, it might be better to spend $1000 to have it trucked back (call Hansen's) or risk an engine failure before you can get the car thoroughly checked over.

 

I saw the Lucas 2 stroke oil from lordco in Richmond, planning to drive my 7 home over 2 days from calgary and stop by the okanagan but will keep an eye on coolant temperature

 

I agree that is a lot of hours to spend driving an unfamiliar car with unknown history. The price of engines and engine rebuild parts has gone up a lot since 2004, a tow or transporter might be a wise move.

 

There is a lower level secondary road that runs from around Kamloops to Merit along side Nicola Lake. Nice twisty roads. Cuts out one mountain pass.

( I will check out Lordco this afternoon. Good find.)

 

If the car is a built Calgary car likely Adam at RX Speicialties is familiar with it. Perhaps have him take a look overit before you set out.

 

I like the Johnson brand two stroke oil. Comes in the gallon size here state side. Doesn't smoke too much, but if you want smoke try the Quicksilver stuff, it'll look like a freight train.

 

Made it back home thru the mountain and twisty roads over two days so can stop by for photos and what not, all cleaned up now need to arrange to get fluids and sparkplugs changed and diagnose an intermittent mystery boost cutout issue at WOT... thank you guys for the advise

 

Drop by and see Will at Autodromo on Cedarbrdige.

 

Way back when I had what felt like a loss of boost - turned out to be a bad spark plug wire. The rotary is so smooth the miss wasn't apparent. So don't assume it's totally boost-related.

 

When you rev the motor ar eany of the pre-intercooler air pipes buckling? Check for debris in your intakes. Like from a disintegrating after market cone air filter.

 

I think you meant pre-turbo (suction side).

 

will book a time with forcefed in Abbotsford to get the nitty gritty iron out, thank you guys

 

Yes but we have also seen the pipe feeding the intercooler buckling. perhaps it was '99 spec which is less rigid than the S6 version.

 

IMO, that would be odd, since the OP said the issue happens under full throttle and boost which "should" expand and round out the hose, unless it was permanently and severely deformed closing it off almost entirely.

 

What would happen if your were at WOT and suddenly something blocked the air intake, such as the filter element getting sucked into the turbo?