What kind of WHP should I be looking for
#1
What kind of WHP should I be looking for
I recently purchased 93 FD, here are the mods. What kind of output should I be expecting?
The modifications include an Apex-i Power FC (after market piggy back computer) and commander, Apex-i AVC-4 boost control, Peter Ferrell air intake kit with air damn, Peter Ferrell stock mount intercooler, HKS Twin-Power ignition, Greddy under drive pulley kit, custom engine torque dampener, Koyo radiator, Bonez 3" down pipe, aftermarket highflow cat (will throw in ported dummy cat), Apex-i N1 dual exhaust
Oh, and i was told that re-manufacturer engine installed about 15k miles ago.
The modifications include an Apex-i Power FC (after market piggy back computer) and commander, Apex-i AVC-4 boost control, Peter Ferrell air intake kit with air damn, Peter Ferrell stock mount intercooler, HKS Twin-Power ignition, Greddy under drive pulley kit, custom engine torque dampener, Koyo radiator, Bonez 3" down pipe, aftermarket highflow cat (will throw in ported dummy cat), Apex-i N1 dual exhaust
Oh, and i was told that re-manufacturer engine installed about 15k miles ago.
#6
Don't worry be happy...
iTrader: (1)
Please take the time and learn about your car before you mess with it.
First off we can't tell you at what power level you should be at without you telling us at what boost level you are at. For instance if you make 290 RWHP at 6 psi on stock twins your car was touched by god himself. But lets say you make 290 RWHP at 18 psi well then your car was touched by a big fat turd.
IMO don't mess with the car yet, just enjoy it. Not only was it was tuned by Kahn (which he has a damn good reputation) but 290 RWHP is not slow given that our cars are very light.
First off we can't tell you at what power level you should be at without you telling us at what boost level you are at. For instance if you make 290 RWHP at 6 psi on stock twins your car was touched by god himself. But lets say you make 290 RWHP at 18 psi well then your car was touched by a big fat turd.
IMO don't mess with the car yet, just enjoy it. Not only was it was tuned by Kahn (which he has a damn good reputation) but 290 RWHP is not slow given that our cars are very light.
#7
Defined Autoworks
iTrader: (6)
I say drive it as well. I skipped the step of enjoying my fd before it became an insane race car, and regret it every day. After a fuel pump you will be good for basically 320. I had the same basic set-up as you for a short time but had a fuel pump also, it made 330 wheel. I really would try to enjoy just driving the car before you go to crazy with it, or maybe you never planed to but it's just my advice.
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#8
Classy
iTrader: (17)
....tread carefully, go slow, do your research. Get the mods to support your tuning desires. Anyone can mess with the tune and get more hp on higher boost.
Question is, how long and how often can you do that?
290 is great for what you have in it so far with those mods. Thats exactly what I would expect with about 10-12 psi
Question is, how long and how often can you do that?
290 is great for what you have in it so far with those mods. Thats exactly what I would expect with about 10-12 psi
#9
I apologize, I should specify what my plans are.
I purchased the car with intention to track the car about 6 - 8 days a year. It will not be a daily driver. With that said, I absolutely agree that I should drive the car and enjoy it and I intend on doing just that. The reason I asked is to see if the output should be expected with the mods already installed.
I am engineer by training so in my mind, I should install pump and maybe even injectors and have it re-tuned to little more power so on hot days, I can dial down the boost to insure engine won't blow up on me. Call it margin of safety.
I appreciate your inputs and looking forward to see local owners...
Oh and light (weight) is relative... I saw an Lotus 7 clone (Superperformance S1) with old rotary NA engine. 1400 lbs at 180 HP. Now, that's light...
I purchased the car with intention to track the car about 6 - 8 days a year. It will not be a daily driver. With that said, I absolutely agree that I should drive the car and enjoy it and I intend on doing just that. The reason I asked is to see if the output should be expected with the mods already installed.
I am engineer by training so in my mind, I should install pump and maybe even injectors and have it re-tuned to little more power so on hot days, I can dial down the boost to insure engine won't blow up on me. Call it margin of safety.
I appreciate your inputs and looking forward to see local owners...
Oh and light (weight) is relative... I saw an Lotus 7 clone (Superperformance S1) with old rotary NA engine. 1400 lbs at 180 HP. Now, that's light...
Last edited by seamore; 01-20-11 at 07:22 PM.
#10
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
premixing oil helps buy engine and apex seal life.
water injection and or race fuel buys anti detonation safety margin
larger cooling system and oil cooler upgrades buy cooling system integrity under stress(i see koyo but no mention of at least R1 dual oil coolers)
those are things you should look at before thinking about upgrading the power level of the car on stock twins with the intent on tracking the car. also make sure the fuel pump has been rewired and the sender unit modified with bulkhead connectors to avoid the stock terminal once you upgrade the fuel pump.
water injection and or race fuel buys anti detonation safety margin
larger cooling system and oil cooler upgrades buy cooling system integrity under stress(i see koyo but no mention of at least R1 dual oil coolers)
those are things you should look at before thinking about upgrading the power level of the car on stock twins with the intent on tracking the car. also make sure the fuel pump has been rewired and the sender unit modified with bulkhead connectors to avoid the stock terminal once you upgrade the fuel pump.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 01-20-11 at 07:23 PM.
#14
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
OP,
Unless your car was tuned for higher octane gas than what is available to you (tuned for 93+, filling up with 91) I wouldn't touch a thing on it.
Take time, browse the forum, learn about your car, don't "fix" what ain't broken.
Your car has solid entry level mods right now, and the tuner who wrote your fuel maps is very well known and respected in the rotary community.
It's fairly obvious that you are new to the rotary community. You have an excellent base to start on, take advantage of your car. Learn it, appreciate it, love it, worry about extra power after you can competently handle your current power level in any situation.
Unless your car was tuned for higher octane gas than what is available to you (tuned for 93+, filling up with 91) I wouldn't touch a thing on it.
Take time, browse the forum, learn about your car, don't "fix" what ain't broken.
Your car has solid entry level mods right now, and the tuner who wrote your fuel maps is very well known and respected in the rotary community.
It's fairly obvious that you are new to the rotary community. You have an excellent base to start on, take advantage of your car. Learn it, appreciate it, love it, worry about extra power after you can competently handle your current power level in any situation.
#16
Torqueless Wonder
iTrader: (1)
Take this piece of advice as if it was one of the ten commandments.
Cooling on an FD is CRUCIAL to a long running and happy engine.
Koyo or Fluidyne rad, and at a minimum perform the R1 Dual oil cooler mod, Or go all out and get the Sakebomb Garage dual oil cooler kit.
Also performing a coolant flush with a new thermostat with new water pump couldnt hurt.
Just enjoy the car.... visit as many track days as possible to get used to the car as it sits now.
Cooling on an FD is CRUCIAL to a long running and happy engine.
Koyo or Fluidyne rad, and at a minimum perform the R1 Dual oil cooler mod, Or go all out and get the Sakebomb Garage dual oil cooler kit.
Also performing a coolant flush with a new thermostat with new water pump couldnt hurt.
Just enjoy the car.... visit as many track days as possible to get used to the car as it sits now.
#20
10-8-10
iTrader: (7)
I understand that injecting water does not make the engine itself more powerful but in my experience it made a very noticeable difference. It is going to lower the air intake temps significantly, more dense air charge, so more power right? It is like running higher octane gas. I don't see how water/alcohol injection would not make more power especially if you tune for it. I guess it all depends on the circumstances. In the case of my stock car I think the effect was similar to adding a much larger intercooler.
#21
Don't worry be happy...
iTrader: (1)
I understand that injecting water does not make the engine itself more powerful but in my experience it made a very noticeable difference. It is going to lower the air intake temps significantly, more dense air charge, so more power right? . In the case of my stock car I think the effect was similar to adding a much larger intercooler.
But no matter what A.I. is good thing to have on a rotary powered car.
#23
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
I'm not much of a fan when it comes to using washer fluid, something about injecting solvents/detergents/whatever else into my engine.
You may want to consider going with either straight (distilled) water, or a water/methanol mix. IIRC a 5 gallon drum of methanol is only like $45-$50, that will last you a LONG time as well, so it's practical application outweighs the cost.
You may want to consider going with either straight (distilled) water, or a water/methanol mix. IIRC a 5 gallon drum of methanol is only like $45-$50, that will last you a LONG time as well, so it's practical application outweighs the cost.
#24
10-8-10
iTrader: (7)
Regular washer fluid is only water and methanol and some blue dye I suppose. The lower the degree of protection the more methanol. Here is the MSDS sheet for Peak brand, page 24 for methanol content of the 0 deg. wash.
I am sure the bug washes, and the de-icers have antifreeze and other cleaners but the cheap blue stuff is already a water and methanol blend.
http://www.peakauto.com/pdf/msds-pea...hield_wash.pdf
I am sure the bug washes, and the de-icers have antifreeze and other cleaners but the cheap blue stuff is already a water and methanol blend.
http://www.peakauto.com/pdf/msds-pea...hield_wash.pdf