So i was driving along in the fd (which is running like a real pile of ****) and the oil light comes on, aswell as the coolant light. Pull over to find the dipstick hanging out of tube it goes into, with oil everywhere, it blasted out of the hole for some venting problem i was assuming?????
Car got a little hot hence the coolant light coming on, but coolant level was right to the lids?
WTF?

 

i think a faulty pcv will allow boost into your oil system.

 

be caureful, sounds like a failing coolant seal to me. any milky resadue in the oil that was expelled?

 

I've also heard that this indicates a blown side seal or weak engine with too much blowby.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+seal+dipstick

 

Hope you figure out the real problem

 

is it still called blowby on a rotary?

 

Yeah blowby, but I dont think the coolent system has enough pressure to blow out the dip stick. Look for milky white (sign that coolent is in your oil) and replace your PCV valve. Cross your fingers that your coolent seal isn't bad!!!

 

WTF is right. Please take your car to a knowledgable rotary person and let them fix it.

 

My question is this: Will a failed oil control ring allow pressurization of the oil system?

 

engine is low mile.......has about 3500kms on it.......builder figures it is carboned up as what he refers to as black death due to a rich tune.
It tested in the mid 40s on all sides on both rotors using the mazda compression tester

 

sorry lil bit offtopic where is the pcv located on these car?

 

You ain't going to like it but since I've been there and done that with your builder I'll let you continue to listen to the BS and learn for yourself. Let me guess....you have 3mm apex seals don't you....and he has probably already changed the PCV valve thinking that was the problem. Get ready for rebuild time..........at least you got 3500 kms out of yours. Mine died at about 2000 kms. When you are ready to stop believing that all the criticism is false and want to hear the truth let us all know.......it's going to be an expensive lesson.

 

As an engine builder, I can tell you that your builder is full of it. Sounds like build error to me, although I wonder why the engine lasted as long as it did.

It could be a stuck side seal that's overpressurizing the oiling system......An engine might die from being over-carboned over 50,000 miles, not 2000 miles.

 

Goodfella: You hit it on the button. He's going to spend the next weeks trying every Mickey Mouse thing his builder says that it could be and eventually they will have to pull the motor, get it redone and probably lose most of the short summer driving season. Been there, done that, wouldn't want to be there again. In my case the poor tune (rich condition) was also caused by about a dozen vacuum leaks which makes it impossible to get any kind of repeatable results until fixed. What are your views on 80 psi cranking compression in a brand new engine? Believe it or not his builder believes that it's perfectly normal and that cranking compression doesn't matter.

 

that's horrible compression on an engine with new apex seals, even with used housings. My current engine has 12k miles of hard driving on the seals and 62k miles on the rotor housings and still pulls 105+ psi hot on all faces.....

 

Goodfella:

His builder actively promotes 3mm apex seals and then when the compression comes out to 80-90 psi he tells everyone that cranking compression doesn't matter. We've had big arguments on the forums regarding this and I hope that smitter is finally starting to see the light. If you read his most recent posts (crankcase pressure problems, car running like ****, etc.) he's got to be getting frustrated - which is exactly where I was before I finally got some help from friends to find out what was going on. When we tore down my engine we found a bunch of problems including parts that were so far out of tolerance to the point that they shouldn't have been used.

It sounds like you know what you are doing. It's too bad that there weren't more common sense guys like yourself locally here. Cheers.

 

Slightly off topic but you mentioned it twice, so I'll say that there is NOTHING wrong with using 3mm seals....

 

Nope there's nothing wrong with it. Unless your 'builder' just bought a WHOLE wack of rotors that were machined to accept 3mm apex seals. Then he pushes them onto all his customers trying to clear his stock.

Nothing wrong with it at all. coughRX7Specialtiescough

Oops. Nasty cough.

 

I have a newer engine as well, and the first 5 times i changed the oil there was white residue on the oil filler neck. It doesnt do it anymore. Guess it was the polymer or the alcohol inj burning off


BTW, how is your car goodfella??

 

You guys need to seriously stop having sex with your cars...not healthy LOL

 

Other than increased seal chatter, complications in getting a proper aligned groove for 3mm seals in a rotor that was originally designed to take 2mm seals and the fact that they don't seal as well. On top of that I don't believe them to be any stronger. So really there is no need for them other than to reuse old rotors that otherwise would be scrapped. Most of the shops in Japan do not use 3mm seals. The factory stopped using 3mm seals. That should tell us something.

 

thats funny they quit using but still sell them... go figure.

 

My car was burping oil from the dipstick when my pcv valve "failed".

Although, I wasn't loosing coolant.

 

It's running pretty good, thanks for asking . I'm chasing down a surging idle problem, and preparing to install a spare set of control arms with superpro bushings and new pillow *****. It's tough to find time to work on my FD b/c Ihor and I are swamped with about five motor jobs in the hopper right now

 

blowing oil out the dipstick? Dont worry, your FD is just happy to see you!

Seriously though, Goodfella is dead on, you probibly have a stuck side seal.